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Curious as to what the gear ratios are, how the programming works, any systems out there etc.
Experiences good or bad, etc. Cost-
Probably always have a stick in this thing but each time my hyd slave gets a little wonky making it feel notchy wonder if one of these newer autos may be the way to go.
Car hooks well, imagine with a converter and deep 1st it could still be fun. No paddle shifting wanted
If your engine is under powered I can see why,
but for me, it would be a worthless gear to have
i go through 1-5 faster than I can shift sometimes
been well over 180 many times and going to shoot for
200 this fall at the Mojave mile..
just no need for another gear
No lack of power thats for sure but the occasional notchiness bugs me only thing I dont like about the car. Ill swap out the B and M shifte which are known for that and try a Hurst which should fix it. If it persists I may give it some thought.
Ive only had this to 6800 in 4th roughly 150...have you tried a good drag radial? The difference would blow your mind and they (M/T)actually drive great on the hwy/around town.
No lack of power thats for sure but the occasional notchiness bugs me only thing I dont like about the car. Ill swap out the B and M shifte which are known for that and try a Hurst which should fix it. If it persists I may give it some thought.
Ive only had this to 6800 in 4th roughly 150...have you tried a good drag radial? The difference would blow your mind and they (M/T)actually drive great on the hwy/around town.
my sons bought me inverse trailing arms this Christmas so I will be putting them on this month another 4 inches wider tire on each side
Never tried a long shifter, anything special about them? Longer handle make it feel different?
Looking back probably should have reinforced the firewall more so there is 0 flex when the pedal is pressed in. Theres only .030? gap that decides if the clutch is engaged or not and the slave (GM Fbody) is not adjustable even with a turnbuckle on the pedal end. Perhaps some cup shaped spacer between the pushrod and fork. Could always make a brace still, too much going on right now and dont feel like taking anything apart.
Doubt this one will ever have an auto in it again just curious.
So paul will that tuck your wheel in further or are you having to flare it?
Never tried a long shifter, anything special about them? Longer handle make it feel different?
Looking back probably should have reinforced the firewall more so there is 0 flex when the pedal is pressed in. Theres only .030? gap that decides if the clutch is engaged or not and the slave (GM Fbody) is not adjustable even with a turnbuckle on the pedal end. Perhaps some cup shaped spacer between the pushrod and fork. Could always make a brace still, too much going on right now and dont feel like taking anything apart.
So paul will that tuck your wheel in further or are you having to flare it?
I love my Long Mfg shifter! I traded in the long handle that came with my special custom HD built unit, for the short straight one!
I chose to mimic a Muncie CR for my 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears and then have the HD 6th gear overdrive ratio of .80 for the top end. As I have 3.70 gear sets, I didn't go so radical on the 1st gear (3.04) either.
If I race the car with others on the track, I can mount a Ferrari styled gate to block 1st and 6th gears, to be on equal footing with the guys that have 4 speeds!
Last edited by TCracingCA; Jan 8, 2019 at 08:39 PM.
Paul, I have had the pleasure of driving some of the later model 7 & 8 speed cars. Modern automatics are fantastic! The 10L90E Is the one behind the ZL1 motors that cranks out fantastic times on the drag strips. My turbo diesel 3500 only has the old 4 speed auto and If it ever blows I'm putting in the 6 speed.
Correct, asking about auto. The truck I drove left me with a different outlook on autos which, outside a DD I dont come near.
It was pretty damn nice, made a slow vehicle seem much quicker plus the close ratio shifts just felt better. Try one out sometime youd be surprised.
ALmost felt like a car with gears and a 3000 stall but it was moving not slipping.
Paul, I have had the pleasure of driving some of the later model 7 & 8 speed cars. Modern automatics are fantastic! The 10L90E Is the one behind the ZL1 motors that cranks out fantastic times on the drag strips. My turbo diesel 3500 only has the old 4 speed auto and If it ever blows I'm putting in the 6 speed.
i was thinking manual trans.. a 6 speed manual transmission on the track would suck
auto... different dog all together... then I would say fine.
The more non OD gears the better for a track. That way you have the possibility of a correct gear for every turn. Typical road racing hewland transaxle might have a 2.20 first and very close ratio with 5th being 1.00 They are tough in the pits and starting out, but perfect for a rolling start and first gear on the slowest turns on the track. Where as our TKO 600 become about a 3 gear transmission out on the track. With a 4.11 rear I was doing the big jump to 5th OD on the main straights. Very sluggish in 5th. I did the math and 3.55 gearing with 28 inch rear slicks worked the best. Then I was using 2-3-4 going around the track and was right at red line on the main straights at about 160.
The more gears the merrier!
The problem for Gen 1 SBC is that I have not seen an adapter to install a modern 8 or 10 gear tranny to our old stuff.
The more non OD gears the better for a track. That way you have the possibility of a correct gear for every turn. Typical road racing hewland transaxle might have a 2.20 first and very close ratio with 5th being 1.00 They are tough in the pits and starting out, but perfect for a rolling start and first gear on the slowest turns on the track. Where as our TKO 600 become about a 3 gear transmission out on the track. With a 4.11 rear I was doing the big jump to 5th OD on the main straights. Very sluggish in 5th. I did the math and 3.55 gearing with 28 inch rear slicks worked the best. Then I was using 2-3-4 going around the track and was right at red line on the main straights at about 160.
The more gears the merrier!
The problem for Gen 1 SBC is that I have not seen an adapter to install a modern 8 or 10 gear tranny to our old stuff.
on big willow, buttonwillow and other large tracks I only see 3rd and 4th
5th mayyyyyyybe for a few seconds but not until after 140-150 wound out at 6000-6500... it almost not worth it for the time you loose in the shift... 1st is to just get rolling.. 2nd pretty much the same..
now streets of willow, a much smaller track with a lot more turns.. it’s mostly 2nd and 3rd
a good clean wide power band is an amazing thing to have
i generate amazing power from 2500-6500 and still very good power 2000-2500 and 6400-7000
If I ever get the itch to put 17s on I may try streets of willow, the mulletmobile handles pretty well. Put pizza cutters up front so I dont kill myself on the street. Corners are too much fun.
Youd never go back to a 4 spd or 3 spd manual, 100% worth every penny it will totally change the personality of your car. Bet you find you drive it farther too.
Put a 6 spd in mine figuring I could run it to Vegas & back. Got carried away with the valvetrain though (what else is new) so keep it local.
If I ever get the itch to put 17s on I may try streets of willow, the mulletmobile handles pretty well. Put pizza cutters up front so I dont kill myself on the street. Corners are too much fun.
not so sure 4.11s would be that great though
your not going to get around the track worth a **** with pizza cutter tires
you need a big fat print up front as well..
Zip Corvette has put a 6 speed auto in a 76, and I think are selling the 6 speed conversion as a kit. Give them a call and talk to them about what they think about it.
New gm/ ford 10 speed if someone would build a stand alone computer for it, would have to be serious bad ***. Just a matter of time a d patience before its made.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Jan 9, 2019 at 06:35 PM.