Engine break-in Question
01-25-2019, 07:15 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Engine break-in Question
I know about breaking in a new engine with a flat tappet cam but what is the procedure for a roller cam? My engine is ready to be picked up from the machine shop and I decided to get a roller retrofit kit.
01-25-2019, 08:24 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
The 20 minute, 2500 rpm routine is not required with a roller cam. I used a Howards retrofit roller in my last build, and that advice came directly from Howards. They said, and I quote: "No break-in required. Best part of a roller. Fire it up & have fun."
Using break in oil and keeping the rpm down for the first 500 or 1000 miles is still advised. There will be lots of opinions on exactly what the limitations should be and for how long, but basically take it easy for a while. I also change the oil after the first 500 miles.
Using break in oil and keeping the rpm down for the first 500 or 1000 miles is still advised. There will be lots of opinions on exactly what the limitations should be and for how long, but basically take it easy for a while. I also change the oil after the first 500 miles.
Last edited by drwet; 01-25-2019 at 08:27 PM.
01-25-2019, 08:34 PM
#3
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I'm of the opposite opinion: You still need to "seat" the rings as quickly as possible after firing the engine up. Once the oil temperature is up to spec, this is done by doing several "power pulls" on the engine to create high cylinder pressures, which will seat the rings into the cylinder walls. I normally do this on an engine dyno by doing several back-to-back dyno pulls below red-line rpm. If the engine is in the car, run several pulls at wide open throttle through 1st & 2nd gear while limiting rpm below 5000. This will seat the rings and assure that you won't have ring oil consumption due to the cylinder walls "glazing over" from *****-footing the engine after initial start-up. Bottom line - after warm-up, take it out and nail it. We do full-up dyno pulls to redline rpm on brand new engines after warming them up and doing a few "soft-pulls" below redline. Check valve lash, check the oil, and check for leaks. If all is good, run the engine to maximum power and tune it! 
Lars
Lars
Last edited by lars; 01-25-2019 at 08:38 PM.
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Metalhead140 (02-09-2019)
01-25-2019, 08:57 PM
#4
Ask the engine shop that is working on your engine, they are the one who will warranty the engine.
I have a limited experience of some 50 od years and I don’t do any breaking except for that done on the Dyno.
I use Lucas breaking oil to assemble the engine and then for the first 5k km.
change the oil when engine comes of the Dyno check the filters by cutting it open with a filter cutter.
change oil and filter again at 300 km then again at 1000km . I always open the filter up at every oil change to see if any foreign material is in there.
Running a new engine for any lenth of time with no load, will do no good at all IMO.
Bfit
I have a limited experience of some 50 od years and I don’t do any breaking except for that done on the Dyno.
I use Lucas breaking oil to assemble the engine and then for the first 5k km.
change the oil when engine comes of the Dyno check the filters by cutting it open with a filter cutter.
change oil and filter again at 300 km then again at 1000km . I always open the filter up at every oil change to see if any foreign material is in there.
Running a new engine for any lenth of time with no load, will do no good at all IMO.
Bfit
01-26-2019, 02:26 AM
#5
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
x2 on asking your machinist. He said nothing?
Once the rings have been loaded up good (let the engine slow the car back down), change it out around 50 mi then give it hell. Babying new engines is not what you want to do, the 70s are over.
No reason to wait for hundreds or thousands of miles to do so, with todays rings and finer cyl finishes.
Once the rings have been loaded up good (let the engine slow the car back down), change it out around 50 mi then give it hell. Babying new engines is not what you want to do, the 70s are over.
No reason to wait for hundreds or thousands of miles to do so, with todays rings and finer cyl finishes.
01-26-2019, 04:38 AM
#6
Race Director
Those asking these questions don't have dynos. GET YOUR TIMING CORRECT FIRST! Don't think "It'll only be a few minutes and sounds ok now." Too much advance at full throttle and your new pistons are toast.
Last edited by derekderek; 01-26-2019 at 04:38 AM.
01-26-2019, 06:49 AM
#7
Drifting
I'm of the opposite opinion: You still need to "seat" the rings as quickly as possible after firing the engine up. Once the oil temperature is up to spec, this is done by doing several "power pulls" on the engine to create high cylinder pressures, which will seat the rings into the cylinder walls. I normally do this on an engine dyno by doing several back-to-back dyno pulls below red-line rpm. If the engine is in the car, run several pulls at wide open throttle through 1st & 2nd gear while limiting rpm below 5000. This will seat the rings and assure that you won't have ring oil consumption due to the cylinder walls "glazing over" from *****-footing the engine after initial start-up. Bottom line - after warm-up, take it out and nail it. We do full-up dyno pulls to redline rpm on brand new engines after warming them up and doing a few "soft-pulls" below redline. Check valve lash, check the oil, and check for leaks. If all is good, run the engine to maximum power and tune it!
Lars
Lars
If that scares you, maybe you should check your parts list and remove the stuff that you're scared of beating the hell out of.
01-26-2019, 08:30 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
I'm of the opposite opinion: You still need to "seat" the rings as quickly as possible after firing the engine up. Once the oil temperature is up to spec, this is done by doing several "power pulls" on the engine to create high cylinder pressures, which will seat the rings into the cylinder walls. I normally do this on an engine dyno by doing several back-to-back dyno pulls below red-line rpm. If the engine is in the car, run several pulls at wide open throttle through 1st & 2nd gear while limiting rpm below 5000. This will seat the rings and assure that you won't have ring oil consumption due to the cylinder walls "glazing over" from *****-footing the engine after initial start-up. Bottom line - after warm-up, take it out and nail it. We do full-up dyno pulls to redline rpm on brand new engines after warming them up and doing a few "soft-pulls" below redline. Check valve lash, check the oil, and check for leaks. If all is good, run the engine to maximum power and tune it!
Lars
Lars
YOU MUST BREAKIN YOUR HOWARDS ROLLER CAM MOTOR just like any other new rebuilt motor. There is no ambiguity here guys! I wish folks would stop saying roller cam motors do not require breakin...they do! The component failure risks are MUCH less with a roller but not eliminated and roller lifters can and do suffer from particle contamination during breakin, if proper procedures are not followed, not to mention the ring issue LARS referenced as well.
My builder came to my house for the startup upon my request. I used 5 qts of Driven breakin oil. He primed the motor for several minutes using a drill in the distributor opening. Gas primed the carb and it fired with 1 turn of the engine. He manually revved it between 1,800-2,500 RPM for 30 minutes. I then drove the car on the road and did WOT in second gear between 2,000-4,500 RPM for about 10 runs. Went home and changed the oil and filter. Put in conventional Driven 15W-50 for the first 500 miles driving it moderately with occasional blasts to 4,500 RPM and later 5000 RPM eventually all the way to 6,000 RPM. Changed the oil at 500 miles to Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula which is what the engine has used for the last 5 years...Zero oil consumption! The engine has been a gem 355 making big torque/hp and running flawlessly.......
Last edited by jb78L-82; 01-26-2019 at 08:37 AM.
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Jeffs82c3 (01-26-2019)
01-26-2019, 10:52 AM
#9
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01-26-2019, 11:08 AM
#10
Le Mans Master
This^^^^^^^^^ is almost exactly what my builder told me about my engine. He did all the machine work and assembled the bottom end. He delivered the short block to my house and I completed the assembly with the Howards roller cam, AFR heads, measured the pushrods and everything else (the roller cam thrust button and pushrod measuring techniques still cracks me up to this day about the complete nonsense that surrounds it). He was very clear and direct:
YOU MUST BREAKIN YOUR HOWARDS ROLLER CAM MOTOR just like any other new rebuilt motor. There is no ambiguity here guys! I wish folks would stop saying roller cam motors do not require breakin...they do! The component failure risks are MUCH less with a roller but not eliminated and roller lifters can and do suffer from particle contamination during breakin, if proper procedures are not followed, not to mention the ring issue LARS referenced as well.
My builder came to my house for the startup upon my request. I used 5 qts of Driven breakin oil. He primed the motor for several minutes using a drill in the distributor opening. Gas primed the carb and it fired with 1 turn of the engine. He manually revved it between 1,800-2,500 RPM for 30 minutes. I then drove the car on the road and did WOT in second gear between 2,000-4,500 RPM for about 10 runs. Went home and changed the oil and filter. Put in conventional Driven 15W-50 for the first 500 miles driving it moderately with occasional blasts to 4,500 RPM and later 5000 RPM eventually all the way to 6,000 RPM. Changed the oil at 500 miles to Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula which is what the engine has used for the last 5 years...Zero oil consumption! The engine has been a gem 355 making big torque/hp and running flawlessly.......
YOU MUST BREAKIN YOUR HOWARDS ROLLER CAM MOTOR just like any other new rebuilt motor. There is no ambiguity here guys! I wish folks would stop saying roller cam motors do not require breakin...they do! The component failure risks are MUCH less with a roller but not eliminated and roller lifters can and do suffer from particle contamination during breakin, if proper procedures are not followed, not to mention the ring issue LARS referenced as well.
My builder came to my house for the startup upon my request. I used 5 qts of Driven breakin oil. He primed the motor for several minutes using a drill in the distributor opening. Gas primed the carb and it fired with 1 turn of the engine. He manually revved it between 1,800-2,500 RPM for 30 minutes. I then drove the car on the road and did WOT in second gear between 2,000-4,500 RPM for about 10 runs. Went home and changed the oil and filter. Put in conventional Driven 15W-50 for the first 500 miles driving it moderately with occasional blasts to 4,500 RPM and later 5000 RPM eventually all the way to 6,000 RPM. Changed the oil at 500 miles to Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula which is what the engine has used for the last 5 years...Zero oil consumption! The engine has been a gem 355 making big torque/hp and running flawlessly.......
I have ave seen several posts by your that insist that a roller cam needs breaking in. Why? Explain the science behind you insistence.
by the time you got to running it hard your rings had already partially or fully broke in, and likely poorly, depending on the facing material on the rings you used. Running it hard thereafter may have saved the day however.
I did not break my retro roller cam in.
i agree with Lars. Only thing I would add it that not only accel hard but also decel the engine hard.
The combustion process during accel and decel is the only thing that will push the rings hard into the cylinder wall. Failing to do this will reduce ring seal to some degree. The degree with which it will or won’t depends largely on ring material and cylinder finish surface. In extreme cases it will even lead to a chronic oil consuming engine. Even new engines can and have suffered this failure, leading to an engine that consumes an unacceptable amount of oil.
it can also lead to excessive blowby and reduced power output due to gasses escaping past the rings.
it can be hard to tell on an 8 cylinder engine but try on a single cylinder dirt bike, the difference between properly broke in rings vs not will be very apparent.
Last edited by REELAV8R; 01-26-2019 at 11:10 AM.
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Metalhead140 (02-09-2019)
01-26-2019, 12:22 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
That is correct...rollers need breakin! and I have said it many times, correct. You do not agree which is perfectly fine.
I am not the engineer but my builder who IS an engineer, insists that you should since as I said above that is documented in the literature (you can do a search if interested) that there is less risk of roller failure BUT there is risk. I stated above the risk is particle contamination to the roller lifter.
In summary, roller risk is less but still can happen AND my engineer builder who has written for multiple hot rod publications and is a GM expert, advised me on the roller breakin. You can argue with him, if you like, if you cannot accept, what I have stated,
I am not the engineer but my builder who IS an engineer, insists that you should since as I said above that is documented in the literature (you can do a search if interested) that there is less risk of roller failure BUT there is risk. I stated above the risk is particle contamination to the roller lifter.
In summary, roller risk is less but still can happen AND my engineer builder who has written for multiple hot rod publications and is a GM expert, advised me on the roller breakin. You can argue with him, if you like, if you cannot accept, what I have stated,
Last edited by jb78L-82; 01-26-2019 at 12:26 PM.
01-26-2019, 01:44 PM
#12
Dr. Detroit
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Roller Cams do not need break-in........there is nothing to break-in.........just get some heat in it and run the pie out of it........the load from hard acceleration runs will push gases to the backside of the rings which pushes them against the cylinder walls and "scrubs" them into the bore.......once they seat, that's it.
But it is important to get the rings seated right away as the constant rubbing of rings without load gases pushing against them will knock the peaks off the hone and it will take FOREVER to seat them afterward.
Years ago when we would finish a build (top shelf roller build), it would go straight to the Superflow where it was primed, fired, timed and a "sweep" performed on it with varying amounts of water load applied.....then the final pulls for power were made.
It almost always took five or six good pulls to seat the rings......8 to 10 seconds at a time. How did we know they were seated? It quit making more power!
Jebby
But it is important to get the rings seated right away as the constant rubbing of rings without load gases pushing against them will knock the peaks off the hone and it will take FOREVER to seat them afterward.
Years ago when we would finish a build (top shelf roller build), it would go straight to the Superflow where it was primed, fired, timed and a "sweep" performed on it with varying amounts of water load applied.....then the final pulls for power were made.
It almost always took five or six good pulls to seat the rings......8 to 10 seconds at a time. How did we know they were seated? It quit making more power!
Jebby
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Metalhead140 (02-09-2019)
01-26-2019, 01:50 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
Last call for me on this issue:
From Summit Racing On their website:
Break-In Procedure for Roller Cams
Breaking in a roller camshaft and lifters is a little different than breaking in a flat tappet cam. Because roller lifters have less friction with the cam lobe, the concerns are different. Metal particles created during engine break-in are the biggest issue to the bearings in the roller lifter.
I will send Summit a note that they need to remove the roller cam breakin wording from their website since it is wrong............^^^^^^^^
From Summit Racing On their website:
Break-In Procedure for Roller Cams
Breaking in a roller camshaft and lifters is a little different than breaking in a flat tappet cam. Because roller lifters have less friction with the cam lobe, the concerns are different. Metal particles created during engine break-in are the biggest issue to the bearings in the roller lifter.
I will send Summit a note that they need to remove the roller cam breakin wording from their website since it is wrong............^^^^^^^^
Last edited by jb78L-82; 01-26-2019 at 01:56 PM.
01-26-2019, 02:57 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
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summit's Entire roller break-in procedure
I read the above with great interest; I went to Summit and read throughout its roller cam break-in procedure.
I do Not agree with it in its entirety as it raises some questions … I copied it & pasted below verbatim … perhaps it may be fodder for courtly discussion.
https://help.summitracing.com/app/an...tail/a_id/4708
Break-In Procedure for Roller Cams
Breaking in a roller camshaft and lifters is a little different than breaking in a flat tappet cam. Because roller lifters have less friction with the cam lobe, the concerns are different. Metal particles created during engine break-in are the biggest issue to the bearings in the roller lifter.Most camshafts will come with specific break-in procedures. Whenever possible, follow the manufacturer's instructions. The following is a general procedure that could apply to any roller camshaft. The specific instructions for your camshaft may vary slightly.
Notes
- Using new lifters when installing a new roller camshaft is not always required.
-
- If you are reusing lifters, clean and inspect them thoroughly to ensure they are still good.
- Coat all the cam lobes and the distributor gears with Assembly/Break-In Lube.
- Soak the lifters in break-in oil.
- Use Break-In Oil. (This will benefit all parts of the engine. Not just the camshaft.)
-
- Some break-in oils have a Zinc, or ZDDP additive.
- If your oil does not have this, use a Zinc Additive.
- Synthetic or API rated SL, SM, or SN oil is not recommended.
- Use a finer micron filter during break-in.
- Do not "pump up" hydraulic lifters.
- Do not exceed the Recommended Valve Spring Pressures for the camshaft.
-
- For performance engines that use high valve spring pressure, use a lighter set of springs for the break-in procedure.
- If you have double or triple springs, remove the inner springs during the break-in procedure.
Procedure
- Install the Camshaft
- Set the Valve Lash or Pre-Load as recommended by the manufacturer.
- Prime the Oiling System.
- Adjust the ignition timing so that the engine will start at a fast idle.
- For carbureted engines, make sure the fuel bowls are full and any air is bled from the fuel lines.
- Start the engine.
- Immediately raise the RPM's to 3,000.
- Vary the RPM's between 1,500 and 3,000 for the next 20 - 30 minutes. Use a slow, steady acceleration / deceleration pattern.
- Shut down the engine and let it cool.
- Drain the oil and change the oil filter to remove any metal particles from the break-in process.
- Refill the engine with a petroleum based oil and zinc additive.
Answer ID 4708 | Published 11/09/2016 01:18 PM | Updated 12/18/2018 02:40 PM
01-26-2019, 03:40 PM
#15
Le Mans Master
That is correct...rollers need breakin! and I have said it many times, correct. You do not agree which is perfectly fine.
I am not the engineer but my builder who IS an engineer, insists that you should since as I said above that is documented in the literature (you can do a search if interested) that there is less risk of roller failure BUT there is risk. I stated above the risk is particle contamination to the roller lifter.
In summary, roller risk is less but still can happen AND my engineer builder who has written for multiple hot rod publications and is a GM expert, advised me on the roller breakin. You can argue with him, if you like, if you cannot accept, what I have stated,:confused2:
I am not the engineer but my builder who IS an engineer, insists that you should since as I said above that is documented in the literature (you can do a search if interested) that there is less risk of roller failure BUT there is risk. I stated above the risk is particle contamination to the roller lifter.
In summary, roller risk is less but still can happen AND my engineer builder who has written for multiple hot rod publications and is a GM expert, advised me on the roller breakin. You can argue with him, if you like, if you cannot accept, what I have stated,:confused2:
When someone tells me something to which the reason is not immediately apparent I ask why. Is that not reasonable?
If the person who told me that can't come up with a reasonable answer or a plausible and /or believable explanation then it is likely that they do not know why either and are passing on information to which they do not understand the reason behind.
Given that is the case then that may make them an unreliable source for said information.
If your GM expert, engineer, engine builder cannot or will not explain the reason to your satisfaction then it is likely he does not understand it. Asking why is not disrespectful, It's just asking for more information.
An engineering degree does not necessarily make one an engineer, nor is it synonymous with genius. If he understands what he preaches then he should be fine with answering the question.
Last edited by REELAV8R; 01-26-2019 at 03:44 PM.
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Metalhead140 (02-09-2019)
01-26-2019, 05:21 PM
#16
"Everything you read on the internet is true." Abraham Lincoln.
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jackson (01-26-2019)
01-26-2019, 05:28 PM
#17
Dr. Detroit
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“My father....he would lie....he would cheat. He often made outrageous statements like that he had invented the question mark, or accusing chestnuts of being lazy....because of this, if the glove does not fit, you must aquit!
I may not have time to bleed, but I have time to duck!”
Jebby
I may not have time to bleed, but I have time to duck!”
Jebby
01-26-2019, 07:29 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
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GM's break-in procedure for roller cam 350
Chevrolet Performance instructions & Break-In Procedure for SP350/357 pn 19367080
this motor is a crate sbc 350 with Vortec heads & Roller Cam
https://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...e-19367080.pdf
Start-up and Break-in Procedures 1. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with 10w30 motor oil (non-synthetic) to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc. 2. The engine should be primed with oil prior to starting. Follow the instructions enclosed with the tool. To prime the engine, first rotate the engine to TDC and remove the distributor to allow access to the oil pump drive shaft. Install the oil priming tool, 141-955 from our licensed partner www.factoryperformanceparts.com. Using a 1/2" dill motor, rotate the engine oil priming tool clockwise for three minutes. While you are priming the engine, have someone else rotate the crankshaft clockwise to supply oil throughout the engine and to all the bearing surfaces before the engine is initially started. This is the sure way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine for the first time. Also, prime the engine if it sits for extended periods of time. Install Distributor as follows: (1) Locate cylinder #1 top dead center (TDC). (2) Rotate engine to 12 degrees before top dead center (BTDC). (3) Align Rotor with the cylinder #1 terminal on the Distributor. After the engine has been installed in the vehicle, recheck the oil level and add oil as required. It is also good practice to always recheck the ignition timing after removal and reinstallation of the distributor. See step 4 or engine specifications for the proper timing information. 3. Safety first. If the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked and the car cannot fall into gear. Verify everything is installed properly and nothing was missed. 4. Start the engine and adjust the initial timing. Set spark timing at 32 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) at 4,000 RPM with the vacuum advance line to the distributor disconnected and plugged. The HEI vacuum advance canister should remain disconnected. This engine is designed to operate using only the internal centrifugal advance to achieve the correct timing curve. Rotate the distributor counterclockwise to advance the timing. Rotate the distributor clockwise to retard the timing. 5. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil sump and water temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs. 6. Once the engine is warm, double check that the total advance timing to 32° at 4000 RPM. 7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle (WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations. 8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear. 9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear. 10. Change the oil and filter. Replace with 10w30 motor oil (non synthetic) and a PF454 AC Delco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly. 11. Drive the next 500 miles under normal conditions or 12 to 15 engine hours. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load. 12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly. 13. Do not use synthetic oil for break-in. It would be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended oil change and mileage accumulation. In colder regions, a lower viscosity oil may be required for better flow characteristics. 14. Mobil 1 5w30 was used for dyno and durability testing.
this motor is a crate sbc 350 with Vortec heads & Roller Cam
https://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...e-19367080.pdf
Start-up and Break-in Procedures 1. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with 10w30 motor oil (non-synthetic) to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc. 2. The engine should be primed with oil prior to starting. Follow the instructions enclosed with the tool. To prime the engine, first rotate the engine to TDC and remove the distributor to allow access to the oil pump drive shaft. Install the oil priming tool, 141-955 from our licensed partner www.factoryperformanceparts.com. Using a 1/2" dill motor, rotate the engine oil priming tool clockwise for three minutes. While you are priming the engine, have someone else rotate the crankshaft clockwise to supply oil throughout the engine and to all the bearing surfaces before the engine is initially started. This is the sure way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine for the first time. Also, prime the engine if it sits for extended periods of time. Install Distributor as follows: (1) Locate cylinder #1 top dead center (TDC). (2) Rotate engine to 12 degrees before top dead center (BTDC). (3) Align Rotor with the cylinder #1 terminal on the Distributor. After the engine has been installed in the vehicle, recheck the oil level and add oil as required. It is also good practice to always recheck the ignition timing after removal and reinstallation of the distributor. See step 4 or engine specifications for the proper timing information. 3. Safety first. If the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked and the car cannot fall into gear. Verify everything is installed properly and nothing was missed. 4. Start the engine and adjust the initial timing. Set spark timing at 32 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) at 4,000 RPM with the vacuum advance line to the distributor disconnected and plugged. The HEI vacuum advance canister should remain disconnected. This engine is designed to operate using only the internal centrifugal advance to achieve the correct timing curve. Rotate the distributor counterclockwise to advance the timing. Rotate the distributor clockwise to retard the timing. 5. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil sump and water temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs. 6. Once the engine is warm, double check that the total advance timing to 32° at 4000 RPM. 7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle (WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations. 8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear. 9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear. 10. Change the oil and filter. Replace with 10w30 motor oil (non synthetic) and a PF454 AC Delco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly. 11. Drive the next 500 miles under normal conditions or 12 to 15 engine hours. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load. 12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly. 13. Do not use synthetic oil for break-in. It would be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended oil change and mileage accumulation. In colder regions, a lower viscosity oil may be required for better flow characteristics. 14. Mobil 1 5w30 was used for dyno and durability testing.
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Big2Bird (01-26-2019)
01-26-2019, 07:48 PM
#19
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GM's break-in procedure for Flat Tappet 350 sbc
350/290 HP Engine (19355658 Base) Long Block Specifications
This is a sbc 350 crate with Non-vortec heads (similar to C3 sbc heads) and Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam (similar to C3 sbc cams)
https://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...e-19355658.pdf
Start-up and Break-in Procedures: 1. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with 10w30 motor oil (non-synthetic) to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc. 2. The engine should be primed with an engine priming tool that is not included with the engine. Tool is available from a variety of sources. To prime the engine, first remove the distributor to allow access to the oil pump drive shaft. Note the position of the distributor before removal. Install the oil priming tool. Using a 1/2" dill motor, rotate the engine oil priming tool clockwise for three minutes. While you are priming the engine, have someone else rotate the crankshaft clockwise to supply oil throughout the engine and to all the bearing surfaces before the engine is initially started. This is the sure way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine for the first time. Also, prime the engine if it sits for extended periods of time. Reinstall the distributor in the same orientation as it was removed. After the engine has been installed in the vehicle, recheck the oil level and add oil as required. It is also good practice to always recheck the ignition timing after removal and reinstallation of the distributor. See step 4 or engine specifications for the proper timing information. 3. Safety first. If the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked and the car cannot fall into gear. Verify everything is installed properly and nothing was missed. 4. Set initial spark timing at 10º before top dead center (BTDC) at 650 rpm with the vacuum advance line to the distributor disconnected and plugged. This setting will produce 32º of total advance at wide-open throttle (WOT). The HEI vacuum advance canister should remain disconnected. This engine is designed to operate using only the internal centrifugal advance to achieve the correct timing curve. Rotate the distributor counterclockwise to advance the timing. Rotate the distributor clockwise to retard the timing. 5. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil sump and water temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs. 6. Once the engine is warm, set the total advance timing to 32° at 3000 RPM. 7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle (WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations. 8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 3000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear. 9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 3000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear. 10. Change the oil and filter. Replace with 10w30 motor oil (non synthetic) and a PF454 or PF1218 AC Delco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly. 11. Drive the next 500 miles under normal conditions or 12 to 15 engine hours. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load. 12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly. 13. Do not use synthetic oil for break-in. It would be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended oil change and mileage accumulation. In colder regions, a lower viscosity oil may be required for better flow characteristics.
This is a sbc 350 crate with Non-vortec heads (similar to C3 sbc heads) and Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam (similar to C3 sbc cams)
https://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...e-19355658.pdf
Start-up and Break-in Procedures: 1. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with 10w30 motor oil (non-synthetic) to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc. 2. The engine should be primed with an engine priming tool that is not included with the engine. Tool is available from a variety of sources. To prime the engine, first remove the distributor to allow access to the oil pump drive shaft. Note the position of the distributor before removal. Install the oil priming tool. Using a 1/2" dill motor, rotate the engine oil priming tool clockwise for three minutes. While you are priming the engine, have someone else rotate the crankshaft clockwise to supply oil throughout the engine and to all the bearing surfaces before the engine is initially started. This is the sure way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine for the first time. Also, prime the engine if it sits for extended periods of time. Reinstall the distributor in the same orientation as it was removed. After the engine has been installed in the vehicle, recheck the oil level and add oil as required. It is also good practice to always recheck the ignition timing after removal and reinstallation of the distributor. See step 4 or engine specifications for the proper timing information. 3. Safety first. If the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked and the car cannot fall into gear. Verify everything is installed properly and nothing was missed. 4. Set initial spark timing at 10º before top dead center (BTDC) at 650 rpm with the vacuum advance line to the distributor disconnected and plugged. This setting will produce 32º of total advance at wide-open throttle (WOT). The HEI vacuum advance canister should remain disconnected. This engine is designed to operate using only the internal centrifugal advance to achieve the correct timing curve. Rotate the distributor counterclockwise to advance the timing. Rotate the distributor clockwise to retard the timing. 5. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil sump and water temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs. 6. Once the engine is warm, set the total advance timing to 32° at 3000 RPM. 7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle (WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations. 8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 3000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear. 9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 3000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear. 10. Change the oil and filter. Replace with 10w30 motor oil (non synthetic) and a PF454 or PF1218 AC Delco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly. 11. Drive the next 500 miles under normal conditions or 12 to 15 engine hours. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load. 12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly. 13. Do not use synthetic oil for break-in. It would be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended oil change and mileage accumulation. In colder regions, a lower viscosity oil may be required for better flow characteristics.
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Big2Bird (01-26-2019)
01-26-2019, 08:13 PM
#20
It make you wonder why they are insisting on dino for break in. Since it's GM, it could just be a cost savings directive, since you change it quickly.
I am quite sure the new cars are filled with synthetic, and shipped out without any break in.
I am quite sure the new cars are filled with synthetic, and shipped out without any break in.