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I would just replace it......if it the original, the 42 year old pickup coil will probably fail soon.
Rock Auto has replacements from $40 exchange to $125 for brand new.......
I recommend you put a Mr. Gasket curve kit in before install and set timing via Lars papers.
I would just replace it......if it the original, the 42 year old pickup coil will probably fail soon.
Rock Auto has replacements from $40 exchange to $125 for brand new.......
I recommend you put a Mr. Gasket curve kit in before install and set timing via Lars papers.
Jebby
Borrowing your thread Mr. fake.
Which kit jebby? I believe there are two Mr Gs. for the SBC. One had poor feedback / reviews about sloppy bushings for the weight pins, the other kit was ok. Don't remember part numbers.
Anybody make better recurve kits for the O.P.?
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 28, 2019 at 11:04 AM.
Which kit jebby? I believe there are two Mr Gs. for the SBC. One had poor feedback / reviews about sloppy bushings for the weight pins, the other kit was ok. Don't remember part numbers.
Anybody make a better recurve kits for the O.P.?
That is right........well, I have used the Moroso with good results and it has the rounded ears for the center pusher......HEI Mr. G kit is 929G.
Just replacing a stock part because "it's old" is not a good strategy. The stock dizzy is fine, if it's in good condition. What to look for?
free rotation of shaft; very little side-to-side movement of the shaft in the housing; free action of the mechanical advance unit; little (less than .010") axial movement of the shaft in the housing; no damage, cracking, or excessive wear on drive gear or other 'working' parts; tach drive parts in good condition.
Other than that, it's clean it up, lube it, replace the vacuum advance can and put it back in. Convert it to electronic ignition (Pertronix?) if you have points [although I still have points and am very happy with them].
Highly - highly! recommend The Right Stuff gasket sealer made by Permatex in a self propellant can on your new intake gaskets. It lays the perfect bead around any potential leak areas and seals the china wall too.
Add distributor gear shims to the bottom in an effort to reduce end play. My money is on the end play being super sloppy. Otherwise check for advance mechanism wear. You would want to preserve the factory weights if they are still serviceable.
Most HEI re-curve kits leave much to be desired. Found a decent re-curve kit but it comes packaged with a bunch of other expensive (but still crappy) parts you do not want to use. Maybe just try the new springs from a cheaper kit. There are ways to reduce available centrifugal advance if that is desired. Gotta work with what you can get.
Way back before we had HEI, we would do the conversion over to dual points for a performance upgrade.
I never see this option mentioned and was wondering if anyone does this anymore and if it would help give the guys who want to keeps points a performance upgrade option?
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Quote:
Originally Posted by fakeIntake gasket leaking.
Highly - highly! recommend The Right Stuff gasket sealer made by Permatex in a self propellant can on your new intake gaskets. It lays the perfect bead around any potential leak areas and seals the china wall too.
The Right Stuff is awesome, but would only use it on the china rails unless you don't ever want to remove the manifold. I made a really bad mistake once and used it on the top plate of our intake to ensure it wouldn't leak and didn't think much of it...until I had to remove the plate again. OMG! I absolutely thought I was going to crack the plate in half and had to use a crowbar in the TB holes to remove it. I know that is a bit extreme, but the stuff works really well on sealing things, damn near permanently. I guess if you smear a very thin layer around water ports you would be ok, I guess, but it will be tough to remove again. Just my opinion after personnel use.
Last edited by Buccaneer; Jan 29, 2019 at 11:09 AM.
Way back before we had HEI, we would do the conversion over to dual points for a performance upgrade.
I never see this option mentioned and was wondering if anyone does this anymore and if it would help give the guys who want to keeps points a performance upgrade option?
Standard Ignition makes just about any part needed to rebuild any HEI or Points distributor; company been around a LONG time.
Look up your parts in the link below and then find the parts wherever you might shop...local parts house or internet
Start by getting Lars papers on distributors
Shim the gear end play to around 0.010", replace the pickup, rebush if side to side play is excessive, you already know about the different recurve kits.