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While I had the differential, exhaust, axles and other stuff removed from my 68 convert to work on the differential, I decided to do the one job I have been putting off for two years. The bolt for the right rear trailing arm was seized in the bushing and could not be removed to get the old style alignment shims out to adjust the toe in/toe out. So with considerable swearing- mostly at my shop light and its inability to show where my sawzall was cutting- I cut the bolt out. The photo shows how to destroy a carbide blade. Because you can only use about two inches on the blade due to the location of the bolt, I got extra use by cutting off the tip of the blade when it got dull, so I could use some fresh sharp teeth. New TA bushings are on order, stainless steel pivot bolt and shims have been sitting on my shelf for about two years from when I did the left side, which was not seized. Think I will have a beer.
I must be lucky. I did mine in December. The nut came right off and using a drift and hammer I tapped the bolt out. In all fairness it had been redone about 18 years ago but still had residue of anti-seize on it. After all the posts I have read about this job I was expecting it to be a huge challenge.
flyeri- "The nut came right off and using a drift and hammer I tapped the bolt out." I spent hours on several occasions trying to drive the bolt out. I taped and padded the edge of the fender so I would not damage it and fabricated a steel drive bar to hit the bolt with a nut in place to protect the threads. As you know, it is not a straight shot, so some of the force, even from my 10 lb sledge would not break it free. When I got everything out, I was expecting massive rust, but there was only rust on about 1/2 inch of the bolt on both sides of the steel bushing insert and end cap. The rubber must absorb enough impact so it won't break free. Anyway, now it's done and a stainless bolt will outlast me.
flyeri- "The nut came right off and using a drift and hammer I tapped the bolt out." I spent hours on several occasions trying to drive the bolt out. I taped and padded the edge of the fender so I would not damage it and fabricated a steel drive bar to hit the bolt with a nut in place to protect the threads. As you know, it is not a straight shot, so some of the force, even from my 10 lb sledge would not break it free. When I got everything out, I was expecting massive rust, but there was only rust on about 1/2 inch of the bolt on both sides of the steel bushing insert and end cap. The rubber must absorb enough impact so it won't break free. Anyway, now it's done and a stainless bolt will outlast me.
YEP I was lucky. I would have threatened to sell it at least 10 times if I had half much trouble.
I can say that the job you just did on the Corvettes that have the early design of shims that cannot pull out is one of the jobs that ranks very high on my list of jobs that I dread to do.
I commend you on your determination on doing it the way you did due to I know I would not have done it that way.
Glad that you have it done and just do not forget to correctly drill the hole in your frame so the long cotter pin can retain your slotted shims when you finish up the alignment.
Do not be fooled where you need to drill the hole due to the length of the cotter pin only allows it to go in one area....and I use a foot ling drill bit when I have to drill this hole when the body is on the frame so I can bend the drill bit a little bit to get it to drill where I want it and not creep all over the place. Then I have another foot long drill bit I cut down so I can drill through that hole and through the other side.
Had to cut through mine late last year. Was a good excuse to finally buy a sawzall, cordless, and due to a great deal at Lowes, for just $50 more I got a cordess driver and hammer drill and a another battery. Spent $15 on one blade, but it never dented the bolts. Spent $15 more on a diablo and it did the job. Had to cut through the shims and bolt, but still couldn't move the TA enough to one side to clear the remaining bolt length. So had to cut off the tip of the bolt too. But now with a clear shot that was easy. Under 2 minutes - hell of blade - basically cut through 2 sets of shims and 4 cuts through the bolts and was still going.
trailing arm bolt surgery
