points on a 68.

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Mar 9, 2019 | 04:33 PM

walt4805

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points on a 68.

I came home with points and a condenser to change out only to find the points have a condenser attached. So I went back and got the right one taking the old with me. When I made the change I found it nearly impossible to use a feeler gauge without bending it to fit in to set the gap. These points are not set by moving the points as they fit over a small pin, that I could see anyway. So I tightened the points and used the dwell setting to achieve the proper gap of .019. Car won't fire at all now. Doesn't try to fire just spins. What could I have done wrong?

Mar 9, 2019 | 05:09 PM

Mooser

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Are you getting spark (does the timing light trigger?
M

Mar 9, 2019 | 05:11 PM

walt4805

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I have 14 volts to the positive coil side. Would it not try and fire. Didn't mess with anything else

Mar 9, 2019 | 05:13 PM

walt4805

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The wire that runs from the negative coil side to the points I did pull on but it's still attached. It's negative so if it were bare under the point plate it would still be okay right?

Mar 9, 2019 | 05:14 PM

walt4805

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Wait maybe if it were bare it would be grounded all the time. Not good since the points are a grounding mechanism for coil volt build up

Mar 9, 2019 | 05:21 PM

Mooser

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It's not supposed to be grounded all the time, it's grounded "though" the points when they close

Mar 9, 2019 | 05:24 PM

walt4805

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Mine does not look like this. The points and condenser are attached to each other. There are weights above it. Super hard to gauge the gap. I might have shorted the ground wire out. Have yet to see how to remove the plate the points screw to

Mar 9, 2019 | 05:26 PM

walt4805

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If you were to send a phone number I could text a pic

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Mar 9, 2019 | 05:32 PM

Mooser

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(that was just a random pic I found showing the black wire going to the points, not necessarily like yours)

If you open the points (piece of cardboard, match or anything), the black wire should have no contact to the car ground when you check with a meter or test light, when they close, the ground connection is made.

Sounds like you may have a short (coil is "firing" all the time)
M

Mar 9, 2019 | 05:37 PM

#10

walt4805

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From: Lexington, NC

Yea man. I am going to check that wire from the points to the coil right now. I think that might be it since nothing else was touched. Let you know soon as I move the laptop to the shop. Thanks

Mar 9, 2019 | 05:38 PM

#11

Mooser

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That plate doesn't actually come off (well not without taking most of the distributor apart)
M

Mar 9, 2019 | 05:43 PM

#12

Mooser

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(I also don't know about the 68 but most of the vettes with points I've seen had the separate points and condensor)
here's my 72

Points - NAPA/ECHLIN CS786P
Condenser - NAPA/ECHLIN RR175

M

Mar 9, 2019 | 05:57 PM

#13

walt4805

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I pulled the distributor, the wire is good. So now I'm back at square one

Mar 9, 2019 | 06:26 PM

#14

walt4805

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It's running, a bit rough but running, yeha!

Mar 9, 2019 | 06:41 PM

#15

Jebbysan

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Quote:

Originally Posted by walt4805

It's running, a bit rough but running, yeha!

Have you set the dwell?

Jebby

Mar 9, 2019 | 06:55 PM

#16

walt4805

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No dwell meter, it's skipping too. But it's running

Mar 9, 2019 | 06:58 PM

#17

derekderek

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The points with condenser attached are junk. Go back and get the correct ones you returned to get the unipoints.

Mar 9, 2019 | 07:01 PM

#18

walt4805

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Have a set of of new points and condenser from NAPA but the condenser wouldn't go under the cap. Can I hook it to the coil neg?

Mar 9, 2019 | 07:06 PM

#19

Jebbysan

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Quote:

Originally Posted by walt4805

No dwell meter, it's skipping too. But it's running

You need to set the dwell to 28-30.
It will never be right unless you check it.....it cannot be satisfactorily setup using the gap.
Then check the timing afterward.
Call a buddy who has a dwell tach....

Jebby

Last edited by Jebbysan; Mar 9, 2019 at 07:07 PM.