Cavu2u

Indeed.
I don't believe it's a hole, because it doesn't leak constantly or even right away on startup. It's a drip that first appears after 7-8 minutes of idle, and drips a little faster and faster within a few minutes after that.
But then what do I know about it? Some repair jobs we DON'T wanna know about.

Steve

HeadsU.P.

I recall seeing a specialty tool years ago for removing freeze plugs easily. You would drill a small hole into the plug, coolant drained of course. Then a tool with threads on the end was inserted into the hole. It was a slide hammer. Couple wacks and out it came. Much like a dent remover for body work.

You should use great caution with this type of work. One slip of any jack and you won't ever play the piano again. I think your best bet is to put the front end up on ramps. That eliminates some of danger when you start jacking the engine. When the motor mount is removed, place some type of spacer in there just in case the jack slips. Perhaps a 4 X 4 piece of wood wedged in there.
You must decide if its worth the risk to do the others on that side of the block. Myself, I would wait on the rest. I have had new ones leak because of a sealant failure.

Cavu2u

Times like this I do indeed wish I had a lift or at least a pit to work from.
Steve

Gunfighter13

Something to think about, If one freeze plug is leaking and you replace that one, it will not be long until another freeze plug starts to leak. If you have been planning to do any major engine mods it might be time to pull the engine and do them so you can replace all of the freeze plug with brass plugs.

Cavu2u

Good advice. Hard to argue.


Steve

Cavu2u

For better access to the Freeze Plug and not stressing the exhaust piping when jacking up the engine a bit, I'm removing the Header.

But that end Header Bolt's impossible to wrench off, due to the tall Valve Covers and the A/C Housing.


I came up with this arrangement.



My 1/4" drive ratchet was unavailable and may have worked with the right length extension.



Slow but sure, it came out. Getting it started is gonna be fun.

Steve

Kacyc3

Side note are those headers ceramic coated?

Cavu2u

That's a big 10-4! BlackJack, out of Phoenix IIRC. I bought them from a forum member about 5-7 years ago. Embarrassed to say I can't recall exactly who, due to my feeble mind. One thing though; who ever it was can rest in knowing they went to excellent use.


I love 'em because they run amazingly cool. And you can touch them 10 minutes after shutdown without it having to be Pt. Barrow winter weather either.

Steve

Cavu2u

Removed the engine mount this morning.


Mount itself.


Almost hate to post this! Looks like what I left on a barroom floor in Key West once. Disgusting!


Not much room to work with. I can make a little more room with the jacks.


Got one of these doo-dads, but may not need it if the plug's about to fall out anyway.


Updates to come.
Steve

Jebbysan

Yes....brass only....especially in this tight spot as they are more mailable (softer) and conform the the hole in the block better which gives a much better chance of sealing the first time in these tight quarters....
Good luck sir

Jebby

DAD111

That bad boy is ugly fugly - I suspect they didn't change those out on the rebuild?

Cavu2u

I'm afraid they was me, and I did. BUT with steel plugs. This is a perfect example of why not to use steel.

Steve

DAD111

Well that sucks- I hate it when i have to blame myself.

Cavu2u

What I'm really good at doin, is hiding stuff from myself! Seems I spend better than 10% of my workday wasting time with that.

Steve

7T1vette

Getting the freeze plug out is no problem...just drive the end of a flat-blade screwdriver thru the plug, then leverage the screwdriver to pop it out.

Putting a plug in with that small clearance will be the more difficult task. Good luck. And nice job with the diagnosis.

Gunfighter13

If memory serves me you can pull the other motor mount and lower the engine enough to get good access to those. Been a long time doing them with motor in the car. I always put brass plugs in any time I have an engine out of a car unless they already have brass plugs in them. Then I replace the brass ones if having work done to the block.

Cavu2u

Thanks Folks.

Learned my lesson. Going with these now.


I'm actually raising the engine, or lowering the frame (however you look at it ). I've found this point to be a safe engine support point.


And this is my usual Frame support point.


So by raising and lowering the two, I've got a little better clearance to work the freeze plug,




As good as it gets, at least without removing the Distributor, Fan Blade or Fan Shroud anyway.

Steve

DAD111

You might be able to get a small headed porta power jack in there off the frame mount to press it in with a socket.

Cavu2u

I've been thinking about a press also, if the weight of the engine will hold still. Or judicious use of an air impact tool on a very long extension from the bottom.


Steve

Cavu2u

Well, here's a tip for ya.

I wouldn't recommend this tool for the answer to pulling freeze plugs.

Good concept, but success depends on a few variable things. Condition of the plug's metal and it's adhesion to the case are two.

Cleaned off the plug .....


..... and after drilling the correct size hole, as stated in the documentation, ....


... the hole strips it's threads, in my case anyway.

Might have to enlarge the hole, but the next thing that comes to mind is to get a slide hammer on it and see what happens.
BTW , all other freeze plugs look good on this, the right hand side.

Steve