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Yea it's worth a try - You would have to dissemble some of those items anyway to pull the motor. Maybe the casting plug does not have a hole but just poped out abit.
Indeed.
I don't believe it's a hole, because it doesn't leak constantly or even right away on startup. It's a drip that first appears after 7-8 minutes of idle, and drips a little faster and faster within a few minutes after that.
But then what do I know about it? Some repair jobs we DON'T wanna know about.
I recall seeing a specialty tool years ago for removing freeze plugs easily. You would drill a small hole into the plug, coolant drained of course. Then a tool with threads on the end was inserted into the hole. It was a slide hammer. Couple wacks and out it came. Much like a dent remover for body work.
You should use great caution with this type of work. One slip of any jack and you won't ever play the piano again. I think your best bet is to put the front end up on ramps. That eliminates some of danger when you start jacking the engine. When the motor mount is removed, place some type of spacer in there just in case the jack slips. Perhaps a 4 X 4 piece of wood wedged in there.
You must decide if its worth the risk to do the others on that side of the block. Myself, I would wait on the rest. I have had new ones leak because of a sealant failure.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 1, 2019 at 01:01 PM.
I recall seeing a specialty tool years ago for removing freeze plugs easily. You would drill a small hole into the plug, coolant drained of course. Then a tool with threads on the end was inserted into the hole. It was a slide hammer. Couple wacks and out it came. Much like a dent remover for body work. I'll look into that with an internet search.
You should use great caution with this type of work. One slip of any jack and you won't ever play the piano again. I think your best bet is to put the front end up on ramps. That eliminates some of danger when you start jacking the engine. When the motor is removed, place some type of spacer in there just in case the jack slips. Perhaps a 4 X 4 piece of wood wedged in there. Man, I find myself doing Risk Assessment taking trips to the john anymore! Seriously, I'm confident it's kept me outta the hospital/morgue on many occasions. Thanks for those tips my friend.
You must decide if its worth the risk to do the others on that side of the block. Myself, I would wait on the rest. I have had new ones leak because of a sealant failure. I'll definitely inspect the others while under there, and make the decision on them then.
Times like this I do indeed wish I had a lift or at least a pit to work from.
Steve
Something to think about, If one freeze plug is leaking and you replace that one, it will not be long until another freeze plug starts to leak. If you have been planning to do any major engine mods it might be time to pull the engine and do them so you can replace all of the freeze plug with brass plugs.
Something to think about, If one freeze plug is leaking and you replace that one, it will not be long until another freeze plug starts to leak. If you have been planning to do any major engine mods it might be time to pull the engine and do them so you can replace all of the freeze plug with brass plugs.
That's a big 10-4! BlackJack, out of Phoenix IIRC. I bought them from a forum member about 5-7 years ago. Embarrassed to say I can't recall exactly who, due to my feeble mind. One thing though; who ever it was can rest in knowing they went to excellent use.
I love 'em because they run amazingly cool. And you can touch them 10 minutes after shutdown without it having to be Pt. Barrow winter weather either.
Yes....brass only....especially in this tight spot as they are more mailable (softer) and conform the the hole in the block better which gives a much better chance of sealing the first time in these tight quarters....
Good luck sir
If memory serves me you can pull the other motor mount and lower the engine enough to get good access to those. Been a long time doing them with motor in the car. I always put brass plugs in any time I have an engine out of a car unless they already have brass plugs in them. Then I replace the brass ones if having work done to the block.
I've been thinking about a press also, if the weight of the engine will hold still. Or judicious use of an air impact tool on a very long extension from the bottom.
I wouldn't recommend this tool for the answer to pulling freeze plugs.
Good concept, but success depends on a few variable things. Condition of the plug's metal and it's adhesion to the case are two.
Cleaned off the plug .....
..... and after drilling the correct size hole, as stated in the documentation, ....
... the hole strips it's threads, in my case anyway.
Might have to enlarge the hole, but the next thing that comes to mind is to get a slide hammer on it and see what happens.
BTW , all other freeze plugs look good on this, the right hand side.
Some repair jobs we DON'T wanna know about. 
Seriously, I'm confident it's kept me outta the hospital/morgue on many occasions. Thanks for those tips my friend.
