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So saturday was the first time I ever pulled the motor out of a corvette. I knew the folding engine hoist I had wouldn't work from the front of the car. So I watched a youtube video of a engine removal from the side. After removing the passenger front wheel left it on jack stand, we figures out the hoist is 6" too short to reach the center of the motor. Thank God we got skills, I had a piece of square tube I was able to extend the hoist 10" . So After getting the motor and tranny out , you could see that the flywheel was cocked on the crank. After removing the pressure plate and clutch(which are all brand new) it appears the roll pin in the back of the crank is out of round. I removed the roll pin, but still having trouble getting the flywheel onto the crank, such a tight fit. Should it b this difficult?
It should not be difficult at all. Might want to share some part numbers. What flywheel? What engine? Are you sure it's a regular internally balanced 350? Not a 400? Not a newer one with the one-piece crankshaft?
OK, I looked and that casting 10243880 is a one-piece crank -- 10243880 Small Block V8 1995-1999 350, 4 bolt, crate engines and ZZ4, roller cam, one piece rear seal Here is source: https://www.enginelabs.com/news/refe...sting-numbers/
When pulling boat motors i add to the boom of the hoist, but chain back of hoist to a spare engine block. But i pull boat while engine in the air. With that long boom you are hanging engine in front of the hoist frone wheels. At least stack a couple of heads on the back of the hoist or hang them from a chain on back. That engine was way closer than you think to flipping the hoist and squishing the nose.
IIRC, OP already found tag on block which IDs motor as GMPP 350HO crate ... sure it's 1 pc rms ... different bolt pattern than old (C3 era) 2 pc rms ... also, 1 pc rms sbc motors have a "hybrid" balance ... they're neutral at damper at front but have an External counterweight on flywheel or flexplate at rear ... correct flywheel should have a counterweight.
These two flywheels should not even bolt up at all if they're improperly swapped. 1 pc versus 2 pc do Not interchange.
count the teeth on the flywheel (either 153T or 168T) and it'll be lots easier to identify a correct External Balance 1pc rms replacement.
Better carefully inspect threads in crank flange as well as that roll pin hole ... take a close look at entire flange. Also, strongly suggest you replace the rear main seal and gasket under cast aluminum rear main seal housing/carrier/hub. Pull the entire hub off block and inspect rear of crank. If someone attempted to forcibly mount wrong flywheel , crank may be damaged. I know a few guys whose bread & butter is putting motors in daily drivers of all makes. Every used motor from yard gets a new front seal & rear seal. Every time. Think ... seems yours been sitting LONG time. Those seals are easy to R&R right now; not later!
So I was able to get in touch with Centerforce the flywheel had a SFI number on it, Its correct for my 350HO, 2001 crate motor, (forum provided the info) its external balanced steel billet. I cleaned everything up with a wire wheel, removed the guide pin, and with some struggle I was able to get in on. My goal is to do a compression test on the motor. We looked in each cylinder with a scope everything looks good. I have it strapped to a cart , put the starter in and check compression this weekend. Thanks for everyones help!!
I posted a pic of the ID tag I found on the side of the block, CMD1 sent me a pdf file. Turns out its a 350 HO crate motor dated 07/25/2001. Its a direct replacement motor for most small block applications. I thought it was the engine you found as well. Its has a boss for a mechanical fuel pump, it will take my stock 68 tach drive distributor as well. Took me awhile, but the forum came thru with the info!!
We added 10 inches, we were just short of the legs on the hoist, We considered the length of the legs. we had cast iron round weights but didn't use them. Guess I should use them when we put in back in!! Good thinking! Thx
i had my boom extended more than that, but better safe... flywheels. i don't think chebby ever used small diameter on 1-piece wheels. not even in 4.3 v6's. you got the guide pin out? it is there for a reason. make sure it still lines up with the hole it is designed to go in or you will be WAY out of balance.
making progresss
