stingr69

Roller cam conversion will break your budget wide open and not give you more satisfaction based on what you have to work with.

The "Cliff's notes" answer - The old Comp 268H was actually designed to go into a lower compression smog era stock engine and wake it up. It is as far as you would want to go with a cam swap in an otherwise stock compression engine. Works with the stuff you have and will be even better with other mods later. Cam and lifter kit, timing chain set, and a tune is within your budget. You get that performance idle sound and an increase in performance. Most bang you can get.

wgrea3

Gotcha.... so is there not an equivalent roller cam to the 268H? Is it just unnecessary to use roller lifters for a cam with these specs?

Thoughts on this kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k69-246-4

kossuth

Looks pretty complete if you’re working on a Buick V6

stingr69

Roller cam is not really in budget. Too many other things will need to be changed along with it.

The kit is not what I would buy. I would buy the cam by itself and buy the Comp EDM lifters and a timing set separately. Those lifters cost more but they have an oiling hole added to improve the wear characteristics. Very important these days considering how bad oil has gotten. The springs you have should still be adequate for this cam so you can leave the rest alone. I just used a set of EDM lifters in my build thread here.

C3 Stroker

Just starting out, if you are budgeting along, I'd go with heads first. The cam is one of the last things I'd spec for an engine. The cam kinda puts you at a dead end if you decide later for more horsepower upgrades.....the engine would have to be taken apart and probably re-cammed. Good heads allows a better running engine and some "wiggle room" for more cam, intake, or carb later down the road.

jackson

I understand stingr69 is building a sweet old-fashioned solid-lifter piece with Comp EDM oiling holes in lifter faces. I ran similar in circletrack motors with solid flat tappets.

But, until budget permits complete buildup, Isn't the OP being advised to run a mild Hydraulic Flat Tappet cam?

I'm not aware of any Hydrauliclifters with EDM holes. I'm not saying there aren't any; just none that I know of.

kossuth

Personally I would look at bumping your budget to about 2k and consider doing a top end kit along with a set of headers. Basically a top end kit has everything (cam, lifters, timing chain, heads, springs, intake manifold, and all gaskets) to basically bump a motor up. As your finding out from reading from all the folks posting everything is a wholistic package. Everything has gotta matchup and pairup or your gonna be disappointed with the combo.

I wouldn’t be all worried about the manufacturer either. There are some pretty reasonable Edelbrock kits on Summit for $1650 or so. While Edelbrock stuff isn’t necessarily leading edge it’s usually dependable stuff. I do wonder about some of the manufacturers, but there are other players than just Comp.

If you are looking for a now upgrade headers would be the ticket IMO. If your gonna stick with side pipes I would look for a set of long tube headers that will matchup with you pipes. If your thinking of going back to a full exhaust then purchase accordingly.

wgrea3

haha good call!

jackson

elgin below essentially same as comp HE 268H

COMP Cams High Energy Camshafts 12-210-2

elgin 1065 Cam & Lifter Kit delivered $127

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Elgin-Engin...5.c10#viTabs_0

stingr69

Good catch. If you cant find any you cant buy them. My bad.

wgrea3

Can someone fill me in on this Lars fella and his ignition tuning method? Link?

jackson

Lars Grimsrud has his very own wiki page ... look him up

wgrea3

Look him up I did... fantastic.

https://www.nytimes.com/2006/11/05/a...es/05LARS.html

Jebbysan

E-mail him:

v8fastcars@msn.com

He will respond fairly quickly....explain to him what you are doing

Jebby

Bikespace

Exactly. Email, don't PM, though he is active on this forum.

drwet

I agree on the ignition curve setup. That will wake up pretty much any gen 1 small block. As for the rest of the upgrades, you really need to do cam and heads at the same time since cam selection is largely a function of compression ratio. That 268H cam is a great piece, but you really don't have enough compression ratio for it. If you calculate your dynamic compression ratio with 8.5:1 static and that 268H cam you get about 7:1 dynamic compression. That's not really enough. The engine will be a little sluggish and you won't be happy. I would suggest you do the ignition curve, and save your money until you can afford to do heads and cam together. Then headers when you can afford it.

wgrea3

Yeah. After doing some more reading, I've decided to get the ignition system in order first. My dad replaced the plugs and plug wires 10 years ago. The car has maybe 2,000 miles on it since then. Should I go ahead and replace those? And how about the distributor and rotor?

Thanks for answering what are likely annoyingly simple questions! I am learning a lot!

Kacyc3

contact Lars about your distributor and carb tuning, once those are completed then look at something on the list... make a list of things you want to do

1. Tune dist. per Lars guide.
2. Tune Carb per Lars guide.
3. Headers?
4. Heads and intake.
5. Stall converter if auto
6. Cam.
7. trans rebuild if auto (maybe at its limit)
8. etc

Rescue Rogers

I would do a full tune up on it

All fluids
Plug wires
Plugs
Cap
Rotor
Points if you have it or upgrade that to a breaker-less/ point-less system which is what i had until i went to MSD
Condenser if you'reusing points

Bikespace

If you want to spend money, buy a digital timing light. You will need it for the Lars-style tune. Then, follow the procedure and replace what you need to get the timing curve where it needs to be. I had to replace the distributor, springs, shim, and vac advance, but I didn't start by doing that. Yours may be fine, the timing light will tell you, and then you'll always have it.