performance upgrade priorities
Hi-octane? ... maybe ... cam choice matters ... longer duration effectively bleeds off some compression.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Do not waste time on that L-82.....nothing there worth salvaging if it has a broken rod.....the heads are not that great either, 2.02 valve or not.....they are just as good as the heads on the Goodwrench engine.
Read this: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/463...-engine-build/ Part 1
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/463...gine-build-ii/ Part 2
Part 2 utilizes the 268H camshaft and pocket ports the heads.....with intake,cam,pocket port and long tube headers....this made 336 horsepower...or on par with a 69 350/350.
I also believe that the ZZ4/L98 head is a waste of time too.....they do not flow any better and have a funky exhaust D-port pattern that some headers do not work with.....even with the 1.5 to 1 compression boost...they are only worth 20-25 horsepower...and that is ALL compression. Typically you will see 15 horsepower per point of compression.
This part explains the L98 head...a waste of money: http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3503.htm
Jebby
Last edited by wgrea3; Apr 21, 2019 at 10:25 AM.
As for the rockers. You can reuse, but for a small amount of money you can simulate a larger cam with 1.6 rockers and take some friction away. Basically you can get a few more degrees of duration @.050 lift and alittle more lift at the valves. That’s a personal call there.
Last edited by kossuth; Apr 21, 2019 at 11:19 AM.
From the other thread:
"In 1978, there were only 382 units built of L82+M20+GV4 (that’s the G95) so they are going to be super rare."
in 1978, there were only 33XX 4 speeds in total made with the L-82 90% were the BW close ratio......
Last edited by jb78L-82; Apr 21, 2019 at 11:58 AM.
For example. I bought 2 Targetmaster 350's when they came out in 78 and again in 80. These were USA made to my knowledge and they went into my street vettes I used for daily use. The 78 I just pulled the nylon timing gear out, installed a Streetmaster intake and dialed in the Q-Jet. I ran great, had all the power I needed to drive everyday, got 16mpg on trips driving 65 mph with 370 gears, and really was a nice engine right up to the day I stupidly sold the car.
The 80 engine went into my 69 M20 336 vette. Again swapped out the timing set for a double roller, used an SP2P intake w/ Q-jet, Stock exhaust and drove it all over the place. Was it a drag car no not at all but it kept up no problem, I never had a problem with it, got 18 mpg at 65 with the 336's, and put 18k miles on it before my son took it, slapped on WP iron heads, a mini blower, cam, and headers and beat that crap out of it to date. The bottom end is all stock and I am surprised it didn't break yet. He blew up two 4 speeds, twisted the driveshaft, imploded a 355 diff, ran a 411 super 10, bent 1350 12 bolt axles, ripped the snubber bracket from the frame and yet that engine is still together. Still has the blower, now a Tremic, and a 1480 12 bolt I built him, the only thing that finally stopped him was 2 kids and a mortgage!!!!
Now my friend bought later versions that were made in Mx and they did not last, had a lot of valvetrain issues so what can I say. That L82 would be a good foundation to build a nice street eng like Jeff did but even with you doing the work it will cost a lot more then a $1000. The more power you have and drive it hard the more weak areas south of the flywheel you will find. Me, I would use the 268 cam setup and drive it.
Good luck
For example. I bought 2 Targetmaster 350's when they came out in 78 and again in 80. These were USA made to my knowledge and they went into my street vettes I used for daily use. The 78 I just pulled the nylon timing gear out, installed a Streetmaster intake and dialed in the Q-Jet. I ran great, had all the power I needed to drive everyday, got 16mpg on trips driving 65 mph with 370 gears, and really was a nice engine right up to the day I stupidly sold the car.
The 80 engine went into my 69 M20 336 vette. Again swapped out the timing set for a double roller, used an SP2P intake w/ Q-jet, Stock exhaust and drove it all over the place. Was it a drag car no not at all but it kept up no problem, I never had a problem with it, got 18 mpg at 65 with the 336's, and put 18k miles on it before my son took it, slapped on WP iron heads, a mini blower, cam, and headers and beat that crap out of it to date. The bottom end is all stock and I am surprised it didn't break yet. He blew up two 4 speeds, twisted the driveshaft, imploded a 355 diff, ran a 411 super 10, bent 1350 12 bolt axles, ripped the snubber bracket from the frame and yet that engine is still together. Still has the blower, now a Tremic, and a 1480 12 bolt I built him, the only thing that finally stopped him was 2 kids and a mortgage!!!!
Now my friend bought later versions that were made in Mx and they did not last, had a lot of valvetrain issues so what can I say. That L82 would be a good foundation to build a nice street eng like Jeff did but even with you doing the work it will cost a lot more then a $1000. The more power you have and drive it hard the more weak areas south of the flywheel you will find. Me, I would use the 268 cam setup and drive it.
Good luck
My L-82 rebuilt with me doing the engine removal/install, buying all the best parts (AFR heads, Howards Roller cam, JE Forged racing pistons), reusing the L-82 reconditioned forged crank, L-82 reconditioned rods, L-82 ported aluminum intake, comp cams double roller timing chain from the L-82 by me, comp cams 1.52 roller tipped rockers, melling oil pump, AC delco fuel, pump, Felpro gaskets , RAM HDX clutch kit, reconditioned OEM flywheel, motor mounts, etc about $5,500 all in with builders machine work and expertise in areas, maybe a bit less. The funny thing is that the L-82 is a great foundation to build an easy 425-450 Gross HP street engine with today's parts. Can't imagine the number of L-82's junked over the years unnecessarily because the engines potential was not realised to utilize the basic forged foundation of these motors..............Shame
Last edited by jb78L-82; Apr 21, 2019 at 12:11 PM.
Back then it was just a smog motor to most & offerings of roller cams, good heads just werent what they are today. Getting 400hp out of a 350 was a chore and 12/13 sec cars were a big deal
AKAIK, so far, GM has not.
When you put a large cam in a motor having relatively low compression, you are repeating the most common error in cam choices.
In addition to their lifters, Roller camshaft itself is much more pricey than a flat tappet shaft.
Don't think anyone would want to buy a small roller shaft ... then buy a larger one after upping compression.
? How about save that $1K for now; and begin saving for better heads? Choose & Install heads and cam in concert.
You already have a 4-speed, so go drive your car! The low hanging fruit is a Lars-style ignition tune, which could be free, or a few $hundred if you need to replace everything. Then put the rest into suspension mods. Not sexy, but your car will feel a lot faster, and you will be better prepared for more power.
Nothing feels worse then spending money twice, or doing work twice, to solve a problem. Figure out where you want your car to be in a few years, and only fix the what you can afford to do correctly the first time. Good luck!




















