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performance upgrade priorities

 
Old 04-25-2019, 10:27 AM
  #61  
wgrea3
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Originally Posted by Bikespace View Post
If you want to spend money, buy a digital timing light. You will need it for the Lars-style tune. Then, follow the procedure and replace what you need to get the timing curve where it needs to be. I had to replace the distributor, springs, shim, and vac advance, but I didn't start by doing that. Yours may be fine, the timing light will tell you, and then you'll always have it.
Can you recommend a good digital timing light? And will I definitely want the digital readout? This is on amazon for $80, but a super basic one without the read out is $26.

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3568-Digital-Timing-Light/dp/B000EVYGV4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=digital%2Btiming%2Blight&qid=1556202147&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3568-Digital-Timing-Light/dp/B000EVYGV4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=digital%2Btiming%2Blight&qid=1556202147&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&th=1
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Old 04-25-2019, 10:45 AM
  #62  
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I have an INNOVA 5568, also from Amazon. The digital RPM readout is a critical debugging tool.

https://smile.amazon.com/INNOVA-5568...gateway&sr=8-1

Last edited by Bikespace; 04-25-2019 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:21 AM
  #63  
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Make sure it is a dial back or adjustable timing design. You can just put in what degree you want and you just mark the zero line and watch that at the indicator. Its especially useful on older harmonic balancers that dont go to 36 degrees
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Old 04-25-2019, 12:52 PM
  #64  
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There's a definite consensus, given your tight budget to focus on: Tune + cam + exhaust.
If you can get a deal on some good heads, it should probably be next on the list (some would argue first on the list).

The problem with used heads is the gamble and you'll DEFINITELY need a shop to check them out and correct any problems. Learn about the various vortec castings, screw-in stud upgrade, max lift and start stalking the nation-wide Craigslist aggregrators for a "Must-have" deal. Before Christmas people often dump stuff for money and you can find some good Vortec heads that people have already had checked out with screw-in studs and the guide boss cut to allow for higher lift than stock (not that Vortecs flow better beyond 0.500" lift anyway).

Food for thought:

Vortec heads (no info on casting( AND Vortec style alum intake $300. SMOKING deal, but could have problems and would need to be checked out by professionals. https://richmond.craigslist.org/pts/...870159929.html

World Products vortec casting $499 1.94" intake valve. Decent price for what it is (might talk them down further), but you'd still need an intake and you're then quickly out of money for the other things you need. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/p...869667472.html

Also a smoking deal. 906 Vortec heads $175 https://maine.craigslist.org/pts/d/l...843952592.html


Adam

Last edited by NewbVetteGuy; 04-25-2019 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 04-25-2019, 12:56 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers View Post
I would do a full tune up on it
Points if you have it or upgrade that to a breaker-less/ point-less system which is what i had until i went to MSD
Condenser if you'reusing points
This is a '78, which uses an HEI distributor, so I don't believe there are points. Correct?
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Old 04-25-2019, 02:34 PM
  #66  
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Id never buy used heads esp iron without having them magged first. Or be ok with the thought you may have to spend $ on them thats just me though.
EQ makes a 24x cfm vortec head. AFR makes a killer 190cc vortec...some other brands are decent and small $ if you can port yourself theres some power on the cheap?
They are cheap enough just buy new ones. By the time you do basic refresh stuff youre over the cost anyways. Lots of machine shops have redone ones on the shelf.

Last edited by cuisinartvette; 04-25-2019 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 04-25-2019, 02:59 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by NewbVetteGuy View Post
There's a definite consensus, given your tight budget to focus on: Tune + cam + exhaust.
If you can get a deal on some good heads, it should probably be next on the list (some would argue first on the list).

The problem with used heads is the gamble and you'll DEFINITELY need a shop to check them out and correct any problems. Learn about the various vortec castings, screw-in stud upgrade, max lift and start stalking the nation-wide Craigslist aggregrators for a "Must-have" deal. Before Christmas people often dump stuff for money and you can find some good Vortec heads that people have already had checked out with screw-in studs and the guide boss cut to allow for higher lift than stock (not that Vortecs flow better beyond 0.500" lift anyway).

Food for thought:

Vortec heads (no info on casting( AND Vortec style alum intake $300. SMOKING deal, but could have problems and would need to be checked out by professionals. https://richmond.craigslist.org/pts/...870159929.html

World Products vortec casting $499 1.94" intake valve. Decent price for what it is (might talk them down further), but you'd still need an intake and you're then quickly out of money for the other things you need. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/p...869667472.html

Also a smoking deal. 906 Vortec heads $175 https://maine.craigslist.org/pts/d/l...843952592.html


Adam
not worth it by the time he buys them, has them checked and upgraded thats $600+, then he needs a vortec intake, and the swap..

Originally Posted by wgrea3 View Post
This is a '78, which uses an HEI distributor, so I don't believe there are points. Correct?
correct

Originally Posted by cuisinartvette View Post
Id never buy used heads esp iron without having them magged first. Or be ok with the thought you may have to spend $ on them thats just me though.
EQ makes a 24x cfm vortec head. AFR makes a killer 190cc vortec...some other brands are decent and small $ if you can port yourself theres some power on the cheap?
They are cheap enough just buy new ones. By the time you do basic refresh stuff youre over the cost anyways. Lots of machine shops have redone ones on the shelf.
go to you local machine shops and see if they have any someone brought in but never came back for, most of the time the shop will only charge for their labor in the heads and you get a good deal. If you can find vortecs this way it is the only way to do the swap on the cheap. then find a vortec intake on CL.

Last edited by Kacyc3; 04-25-2019 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:45 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Kacyc3 View Post
go to you local machine shops and see if they have any someone brought in but never came back for, most of the time the shop will only charge for their labor in the heads and you get a good deal. If you can find vortecs this way it is the only way to do the swap on the cheap. then find a vortec intake on CL.
That's a 200IQ recommendation right there! Genius!

Adam
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Old 04-25-2019, 07:42 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Kacyc3
go to you local machine shops and see if they have any someone brought in but never came back for, most of the time the shop will only charge for their labor in the heads and you get a good deal. If you can find vortecs this way it is the only way to do the swap on the cheap. then find a vortec intake on CL.
First did that more than 30 years ago ... got a serviced & surfaced head for a datsun 280Z for less than what that labor alone would've cost.
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Old 04-26-2019, 07:50 AM
  #70  
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https://www.corvettemods.com/C3-Corv...iABEgJBkvD_BwE

Thoughts on this tune up kit? Should I just buy the items separate? What spark plugs and wires would you recommend?

Really appreciate the help everyone!
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:26 AM
  #71  
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I thought i replied but i dont see it.

I think that price is really high for generic parts. I would not buy that. I would at the minimum buy some good spiral wound cored wires.
You can do better at a local auto parts store. I'll look up some prices to make sure

If you're set on buying online, shop from Summit or someone like that, after a $100 its free shipping

Youu can get all those parts at your local auto parts store and save a ton of money


Last edited by Rescue Rogers; 04-26-2019 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:56 AM
  #72  
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So if you buy all those parts and upgrade to Accell wires and Autolight platinum plugs and STP or similat filters, Duralast parts for everything else its still only $146. If you buy crap wires you can save $40 which look like the ones in that kit.

You of course can buy a higher grade cap and rotor but your not going to gain any noticeable performance with evrything else stock

. And you have to reuse your old coil unless its bad

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; 04-26-2019 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 04-27-2019, 10:45 AM
  #73  
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x2 theres no difference in how it runs. In a pinch I ran some auto parts store plug wires when a few msds burned on the header. It runs exactly the same.
The fanciest Ill get is summit brand anything more is a wa$te.(unless you like the look)
Theres a co on this board that claims a 40hp gain from their wires and guys lap it up like gravy....The "full" bolt on crowd

Last edited by cuisinartvette; 04-27-2019 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 04-27-2019, 11:38 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers View Post
So if you buy all those parts and upgrade to Accell wires and Autolight platinum plugs and STP or similat filters, Duralast parts for everything else its still only $146. If you buy crap wires you can save $40 which look like the ones in that kit.

You of course can buy a higher grade cap and rotor but your not going to gain any noticeable performance with evrything else stock

. And you have to reuse your old coil unless its bad
don't buy high end premade wires... buy the same stuff and make your own... if you buy the wire in bulk, connectors and boots... you'll end up about the same price as 2 sets of premades… but enough supplies to make 20 AND they fit better
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