Headers for C3
They offer several long and short tube headers for small block Corvettes.
They are top quality and come silver ceramic coated inside and out.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Last edited by Gunfighter13; Apr 25, 2019 at 12:27 PM.
My own really old notes for myself:
- Hooker comps
- 1 5/8"
- 16 gauge, lightweight, long transition collector
- Great fitament
- Should come in D port or round port
- Hooker super comp
- 1 3/4"
- 19 gauge, 25" overall length, 10" collector length
- Sanderson
- 1 5/8"
- Tight fitting, gasket-free-use silicon
- 16 gauge, 3" collectors
- LG Motorsports (lgmotorsports.com)
- Merge collector headers- highest perf; sound crazy expensive
- Melrose (the t-top people)
- Great flow but I think they only start at 1 3/4" headers
- OBX racing sports
- May start at 1 7/8" only (way too big for my engine)
- Can be ordered with O2 fittings installed
- Pacesetter
- Look like they may be short in length but appear to come with O2 bungs
- Patriot (Pertronix)
- Have shorty and "tight tuck" headers at affordable prices
- Patroit "GM Car Specific Fit: 55-82 Corvette 2 1/2" collector $373.67?!?
- Stans
- Tri-Ys -designed to help C3s scavange more effectively
- Very high quality; very expensive
- Summit
- Supposedly a clone of the Hooker comps $235 ceramic coated brand new says to buy chevy suv pickup version-someone else says hedman clone- passenger side angles down
- Jegs
- Fits; aftermarket steering boxes; doesn't fit aftermarket kick-out starters
- 2 1/2" collector $331
- Flowtech 31106
- 1 5/8" 3" collector: $316.95
- Advance Autoparts has it- says requires AC bracket Pn 10042FLT $319.99 plus 15% off $50 w code H61 ---WOWZA! $48 off $271.99 $302 with AC bracket
- Jegs has it $316.95
Information on which headers fit with Borgeson conversions and Steeroids (from the CF C3 Forum Threads AND the Steeroids Documentation):
Headers that fit with Borgeson / Steeroids:
- Hooker comps -Yes/Yes (even super comp fit; hooker side pipes do NOT fit))
- Summit are a copy of the Hooker comps (or maybe hedman)
- Patriot Tight Tuck $273.99 from jegs in 2012
- Sanderson block huggers fit
- Hedman long tube headers Yes / NO
- Avoid generic "SBC headers" as they don't work with Borgeson
- Schoenfeld headers- also fit rack and pinion
- Flowtech
The FlowTech can be had for CRAZY cheap for coated headers, but they aren't the greatest quality. I didn't adjust my ignition timing and carb jetting and they burnt the coating off and rusted through within 4 weeks of instaling them -the flange between the headers and the passenger-side exhaust also warped BADLY creating a huge leak even with double gaskets. (I had to take the header off and flatten the flange in my vice to stop the leak there.) -Yea, it's at least 1/2 my own fault.
It's a shame stainless is so hard to find and such a significant jump in price; if I break down and buy new headers, they'll be "buy once and cry once" headers that I plan to keep forever. (Started talking to Stan's, who is in my area...)
Note: I wasn't looking for side-exhaust headers, nor big-block headers and have little to no info on either of them.
I think the absolute best headers for most C3 SBCs are the Stans Tri-Y's, coated, but they'll set you back about $1,000... Tri-Ys provide more low-down and mid-range torque, from off-idle to 5,500 RPM with Stan's design (pretty dated) -after that 4:1s are usually better. I spent some time nerding out on headers for a while and bought a copy of PipeMax and most of the C3s I see on here should probably have a smaller than 3" diameter 4:1 collector, too but almost all the C3 headers are 3" 4:1s. Patriot was the only one I found with a 2 1/2" collector and I have no idea what they're called now, if they're still sold...
Exhaust technology has moved on for the C5+ Corvettes, but the options for C3s seem to be all designed several decades ago (where's the C3 headers with good merge collectors?)...
Adam
Last edited by NewbVetteGuy; Apr 25, 2019 at 02:08 PM.
The overwhelming majority of C3 motors will benefit far more from long-tube headers than shorty headers. If you have a 7,000 RPM+ HP peak SBC, then get shorty headers.
Adam
Patience required, though.
I honestly wish I would've just bought one of the many used set of Hooker Comps I've seen on CL over the past 3 or so years around here and dropped them off at the blaster / coater out by me. (Now I've got stainless and tri-y's stuck in my head, though...)
-Then just add a good gasket set and some good fasteners and run'em.
Adam
DO NOT use Ceramic coatings if your engine needs to be "broken in", the breaking in process makes more heat and might damage the coatings. I broke my engine in using the standard manifolds for the big block and switched over to the Long Tube headers by Hedman.
If you are running anything above the normal compression ratio you might inquire about the coating used. There is a lower cost ceramic coating that will not tolerate Higher temperatures. I have 12.25-1 Compression ratio and that makes a lot of extra heat which again can damage the coating. I have to have mine redone with the higher temperature coating to handle the extra heat from the compression. Also Be sure that they spray the insides of the pipes as well! Some don't.
Good Luck and I hope that you find the right header for your Corvette!
I haven't gotten to the engine work on my '80 yet, but this type is what I'm looking to get. In my search, Stans Headers looked like a good choice. I spoke with them and they are quite knowledgeable.You can search the forum for posts form people who have used them.
Good reminder! Most of the coated headers come with a little warning card explaining the cure process.
Here's the one from Summit Racing:
Curing Coated Headers
Most ceramic coated headers will come partially cured. The following break-in procedure will help to fully cure the coating. The same procedure will also help freshly painted headers.Procedure
- Install the headers according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Make sure the parking break is set and the vehicle is in neutral.
- Start the engine.Run it up to 1,500-2,000 rpm.
- When the engine reaches operating temperature, continue to run between 1,000-2,500 rpm for about 5 minutes.
- Turn the engine off and let it cool down.
- Repeat steps 3-6.
- Take the car for an easy drive (30-45 minutes).
- Turn the engine off and let it cool down.
- Repeat steps 3-5 again.
I thought I heard that something in engine assembly lube can damage interior coatings, too but I can't find that anywhere so maybe I made it up...
Adam



















