C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jun 3, 2019 | 10:02 PM
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I've owned this car (1969) for more than 10 years now and I can't drive it much because of the fuel leaks. I've been tinkering with it and finally have all the leaks fixed except for two. The main leak is from the front carburetor where the brass fitting screws into the carburetor. I bought a new fitting and gasket and it seems to last a week and then works itself loose and leaks (sprays) out of that joint. What's the trick? The second leak is minor coming from the carburetor nearest the firewall. Its a small weeping leak but right now the front carburetor is what's got my attention. I've had it to garages that specialize in old muscle cars and I get the same results. Lasts a week or two and then leaks. Getting pretty frustrated.

Last edited by loflite; Jun 3, 2019 at 10:03 PM.
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Old Jun 4, 2019 | 05:33 AM
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Give Eric a call http://www.vintagemusclecarparts.com/ He did my carbs a few years ago and have not had any issues. The best part is he actually runs them on an engine before shipping them back.
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Old Jun 4, 2019 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by loflite
I bought a new fitting and gasket and it seems to last a week and then works itself loose and leaks (sprays) out of that joint. What's the trick?
I've had this happen to me several times over the years where the brass inlet fitting has worked its way loose. It's not unique to the 3 X 2 other than having 3 times the likelihood of it happening. From my experience, "the trick" is to tighten the flair going into the brass fitting without putting a clockwise twist in the steel line because that puts a CCW pre-load on the brass fitting causing it to back out under vibration.
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Old Jun 4, 2019 | 02:43 PM
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I had lots of leaking points on my 3x2 when I bought the car, can you post a picture of the leaking area. I don't have leaks anymore so I may be able to help (I did all the repairs myself other than corroded/stripped Needle Seat threads in the bowl on the center, a local shop that specializes in repairs installed a custom brass insert).
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Old Jun 4, 2019 | 03:02 PM
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If you lube the back side of the flare on line where the nut comes up to it with grease before torquing it, the line will not try to twist as much like CrossedUp referred to.

Mike
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Old Jun 4, 2019 | 06:56 PM
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When this happened on my trips it was the fuel bowel,The threads inside the bowel get worn and won't stay sealed. Change the bowel.
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Old Jun 4, 2019 | 07:40 PM
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I used double holley black gaskets on the float bowl fittings. also use copper flare washers on the flares.so you don't need to torque them so tight. http://www.jbind.com/products/produc....aspx?SKU=B2-6

Last edited by PAmotorman; Jun 4, 2019 at 10:09 PM.
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Old Jun 4, 2019 | 08:50 PM
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I will happily trade you a factory dual plane, a victor jr, a 950 Holley and a set of rectangle heads for your leaky POS trips setup. Gen 6 heads. 113 cc's.

Last edited by derekderek; Jun 4, 2019 at 08:51 PM.
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