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Tell me, will this untwist itself when it runs? It's been a near 2-hour fight to get to this point, and I'm not quite sure if I have the effort in me to start over.
That doesn't look good, the trick to getting that belt on is to un-bolt the crank pulley and then put the belt on. You can then get one bolt in the crank pulley and rotate the pulley til the second bolt goes in. You can also do a similar process with the w/p pulley but I seem to have better luck with the crank pulley. G/L
I'd start with a new belt too, I think you may have stretched it a bit.
Last edited by suprspooky; Jun 14, 2019 at 12:20 AM.
That doesn't look good, the trick to getting that belt on is to un-bolt the crank pulley and then put the belt on. You can then get one bolt in the crank pulley and rotate the pulley til the second bolt goes in. You can also do a similar process with the w/p pulley but I seem to have better luck with the crank pulley. G/L
I'd start with a new belt too, I think you may have stretched it a bit.
This is a new belt.
I actually have given up - this belt is just way too small. Even stretched out, I measured it at 34.5", and this probably should be at 35" to fit. That belt was going to wear out the water pump fast.
The correct way to install that belt is to loosen the four bolts on the pump pulley (do not remove them, but back them out MOST of the way), tip the pulley downward, install the belt over the pulley, then run the bolts back in.
The correct way to install that belt is to loosen the four bolts on the pump pulley (do not remove them, but back them out MOST of the way), tip the pulley downward, install the belt over the pulley, then run the bolts back in.
I'm confused - pump pulley sits on 4 studs and is sandwiched in place by the fan flange.
The correct way to install that belt is to loosen the four bolts on the pump pulley (do not remove them, but back them out MOST of the way), tip the pulley downward, install the belt over the pulley, then run the bolts back in.
I believe 7T1 is correct. There should be bolts and not studs. You remove the bolts, tilt the pulley forward and install the belt then tighten up the bolts again. There isn't much tension and it's only there to prevent loss of the waterpump if the other belt breaks. Lots of people run without it as it's a pain in the butt to install but it should be there. I would just start it and see if it straightens out but it's also possible it's too short.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Jun 14, 2019 at 01:14 PM.
I'm confused - pump pulley sits on 4 studs and is sandwiched in place by the fan flange.
My 454 also has studs, I just installed new belts last week. I pulled the pulley off of the water pump with the studs in place, put the rear belt and the power steering belt on the pulley, then push the pulley onto the water pump studs. That's the only way I can get that rear belts into position. Then install the fan, washers and nuts onto the studs. I install the compressor and alternator belts last.
Last edited by 71 Green 454; Jun 14, 2019 at 01:28 PM.
My 454 also has studs, I just installed new belts last week. I pulled the pulley off of the water pump with the studs in place, put the rear belt and the power steering belt on the pulley, then push the pulley onto the water pump studs. That's the only way I can get that rear belts into position. Then install the fan, washers and nuts onto the studs. I install the compressor and alternator belts last.
This was my approach as well. I just picked up 5 different belts at NAPA today, increasing in size by 1/2". I NEED to get this puppy on and move on with the project, massive waste of 3 hours last night.
Mine's a 69 427 with bolts but maybe they changed it later? Doesn't really matter. Tilt the pulley and get the belt on then tighten it back up. I'm kind of wondering if your belt might be a half inch too short
Edit: Another thing I remembered is depending on year, the belt lengths/sizes are listed in the owners manual. My wife's 78 has them listed but can't remember on the 69.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Jun 14, 2019 at 02:36 PM.
It won't be "correct" but you don't need that belt.
Without that belt and you throw your alt belt your car will over heat in about 1 minute. I use 2 studs to line it up (vertically) then just remove them one at a time and put the bolts back in.
Without that belt and you throw your alt belt your car will over heat in about 1 minute. I use 2 studs to line it up (vertically) then just remove them one at a time and put the bolts back in.
Yes. If you don't keep the bottom bolt or stud in it's going to be a pain to align the pulley with the holes again. The belt isn't very tight and isn't adjustable but is there for a backup so you don't loose the waterpump if the alternator or alt belt fails. Some don't bother with the belt at all but then if the alternator belt fails, you can't make it home and will overheat really fast.
The correct way to install that belt is to loosen the four bolts on the pump pulley (do not remove them, but back them out MOST of the way), tip the pulley downward, install the belt over the pulley, then run the bolts back in.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Never had a problem doing it this way ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
70-72 definitely had studs and nuts, not bolts. There are half a dozen pics in the latest 70-72 JG and all are of studs with nuts. 68-69 JG says 68 through spring of 69 used bolts, and after that, studs and nuts. Grant, in your pic it looks like a replacement fan with notches rather than holes to attach to wp pulley and wp.
Last edited by 62corvette; Jun 14, 2019 at 07:56 PM.
Hello
I am adding onto and agreeing with the suggestion to loosen the pulley, slide the belt over, then rotate it around and tighten the bolts. This is what I remember doing when replacing that belt.
The 'double belt' on the water pump is for two reasons:
1. 2 belts spreads the stresses between them, making lifespan longer;
2. primary reason is to have redundant belts, in case one of them fails. If you only have 1 belt on the pump and you throw/bust that belt, you can't drive the car for about 2 hours...and then only for a couple of minutes.
If you have auto road service and don't mind waiting for it, drive with one belt! Hey! Live on the wild side.....
70-72 definitely had studs and nuts, not bolts. There are half a dozen pics in the latest 70-72 JG and all are of studs with nuts. 68-69 JG says 68 through spring of 69 used bolts, and after that, studs and nuts. Grant, in your pic it looks like a replacement fan with notches rather than holes to attach to wp pulley and wp.
Very good eye 62! Mine is a late build (Oct 69) and was all original when I got it other than the tires and spark plug wires. I replaced the rad and rebuilt the waterpump but the bolts are original. The fan is also original but the fan clutch is aftermarket.
Water Pump Belt
I believe 7T1 is correct. There should be bolts and not studs. You remove the bolts, tilt the pulley forward and install the belt then tighten up the bolts again. There isn't much tension and it's only there to prevent loss of the waterpump if the other belt breaks. Lots of people run without it as it's a pain in the butt to install but it should be there. I would just start it and see if it straightens out but it's also possible it's too short.
