79 running hot.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 22
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79 running hot.
79 350 all stock.
Car runs great takes 10 to 15 miles to start running hot starting trip at around 190 deg. F
Temp will start slowly climbing to just past 220 close to 230. Shut her down at that point and let her cool off.
Changed thermostat, and water pump. same result.
Changed fan and fan clutch same result.
I have a new aluminum radiator installing it now . Going to flush cooling system before install of new radiator.
Car has never ran hot before, was running around 200 consistently for last 4 years . Until I put in new headlights, just bulbs.
Any tips or ideas appreciated.
Thanks
Andy
Car runs great takes 10 to 15 miles to start running hot starting trip at around 190 deg. F
Temp will start slowly climbing to just past 220 close to 230. Shut her down at that point and let her cool off.
Changed thermostat, and water pump. same result.
Changed fan and fan clutch same result.
I have a new aluminum radiator installing it now . Going to flush cooling system before install of new radiator.
Car has never ran hot before, was running around 200 consistently for last 4 years . Until I put in new headlights, just bulbs.
Any tips or ideas appreciated.
Thanks
Andy
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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Do you have a infrared thermomter that you could verify the temp is that high. I nstalled 2 different mechanical gauges to verify engine temps because of a bad sendor I was having trouble with. Finally have all 3 reading the dame. Mine stays about 200*F all the time on hot days on the highway. Hope the new radiator gets your temp down. Did you change anything in the headlight area while you were changing bulbs. like remove and air dam or something? While you have that all out you should remove and check that your thermostat isnt sticking
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 22
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Flushed radiator and engine block. New Thermostat .
Took her on a 6 mile loop with engine temp at 200 F at the start.
Seemed to stay around 210. Checked with heat gun. At idle temp drops back to 200F with A/C on.
I have a shut off valve for the heater core.. If I bypass the heater core it climbs to 220.
Noticed she runs a little rough. Going to tune her up tomorrow and check plugs for coolant burn. Will also check cylinders with bore scope.
This is just too weird.
Took her on a 6 mile loop with engine temp at 200 F at the start.
Seemed to stay around 210. Checked with heat gun. At idle temp drops back to 200F with A/C on.
I have a shut off valve for the heater core.. If I bypass the heater core it climbs to 220.
Noticed she runs a little rough. Going to tune her up tomorrow and check plugs for coolant burn. Will also check cylinders with bore scope.
This is just too weird.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,895
Likes: 4,472
From: Virginia
Did you flush the block by removing the plugs on either side, by the oil pan, and running water through the block until it ran clear.
How did you fill it back up? There may still be air trapped.
Definitely tune it. Email Lars for his procedure if you are unsure.
New headlights, any new relays, grounds, or alternator to go with them? I'd trust only the IR readings, assuming they are taken from radiator hoses and coolant bypass loop.
Do you have your front air-dam installed?
How did you fill it back up? There may still be air trapped.
Definitely tune it. Email Lars for his procedure if you are unsure.
New headlights, any new relays, grounds, or alternator to go with them? I'd trust only the IR readings, assuming they are taken from radiator hoses and coolant bypass loop.
Do you have your front air-dam installed?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Is your distributor vacuum advance can plumbed to manifold vacuum or timed/ported vacuum. Most likely it came from the factory plumbed to timed/ported vacuum, as that helped GM meet the EPA emissions requirements. But, that will also cause the engine to run hotter....especially at slow speeds in city driving. If that is your problem, move the advance can hose to a manifold vacuum port on the carb or intake manifold and see if that helps.
If your engine heats up at highway speeds, that is an entirely different issue and could involve a collapsed lower radiator hose at higher RPMs, limed-up radiator fins that lower the cooling capacity of the radiator, some problems with the thermostatic fan or whatever fan system you are using, proper fan shroud and seals on radiator, etc....
If your engine heats up at highway speeds, that is an entirely different issue and could involve a collapsed lower radiator hose at higher RPMs, limed-up radiator fins that lower the cooling capacity of the radiator, some problems with the thermostatic fan or whatever fan system you are using, proper fan shroud and seals on radiator, etc....
