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No wonder I couldn't get the right rear camber to hold. I'm still debating about should I just do the side diff yokes, or just get a reman diff. Car has 94,000 miles on it. I'll take the cover off tomorrow and have a look and then decide.
The good thing is the axles did not crash into the housing yet and grind away the 1/8" lip over the seal. If you just replace the axles you will still have 020-40" endplay most likely. Common rebuilt diff's aren't much better since they are built in stock form with a race against the clock. If you take the time to correctly build yours you will be better off and end up with about 005-007 endplay in each axle. I can see that diff has been worked on in the past. It will be interesting to see what it looks like inside.
The good thing is the axles did not crash into the housing yet and grind away the 1/8" lip over the seal. If you just replace the axles you will still have 020-40" endplay most likely. Common rebuilt diff's aren't much better since they are built in stock form with a race against the clock. If you take the time to correctly build yours you will be better off and end up with about 005-007 endplay in each axle. I can see that diff has been worked on in the past. It will be interesting to see what it looks like inside.
The RH diff yoke is shot. The LH appears to be good. Using a feeler gauge, it seems to to be about .008 between the end of the yoke and the shaft. I suspect the reason for the diff coming apart before I owned it was to replace the LH diff yoke. Can I just replace the RH yoke, or should I do both?
You can replace just one yoke. I would pull both, check the face dimension on the good one & the hardness. You should also check any new or rebuild yoke as they vary a lot.
Well most won't have a Rockwell tester but hardness file sets work pretty well and are not too costly given they may save a lot of aggrevation pulling a diff back out for soft axles. If there are any machine shops or heat treating shops in the area they will test them for a small fee most times.
I have returned about a dozen rebuilt axles over the past year for a variety of reasons, all of them you would not want to use in your car. 10+ years ago I made the big mistake of trusting that new axles would be hardened, they wore out in under 800 miles. I returned them to the supplier at Carlisle where after some discussion he told me he knew they were soft.
Well most won't have a Rockwell tester but hardness file sets work pretty well and are not too costly given they may save a lot of aggrevation pulling a diff back out for soft axles. If there are any machine shops or heat treating shops in the area they will test them for a small fee most times.
I have returned about a dozen rebuilt axles over the past year for a variety of reasons, all of them you would not want to use in your car. 10+ years ago I made the big mistake of trusting that new axles would be hardened, they wore out in under 800 miles. I returned them to the supplier at Carlisle where after some discussion he told me he knew they were soft.
Well most won't have a Rockwell tester but hardness file sets work pretty well and are not too costly given they may save a lot of aggrevation pulling a diff back out for soft axles. If there are any machine shops or heat treating shops in the area they will test them for a small fee most times.
I have returned about a dozen rebuilt axles over the past year for a variety of reasons, all of them you would not want to use in your car. 10+ years ago I made the big mistake of trusting that new axles would be hardened, they wore out in under 800 miles. I returned them to the supplier at Carlisle where after some discussion he told me he knew they were soft.
GTR himself has a long-held reputation as one of the top vette diff builders.
Well I guess that was stupid on my part not knowing who is who. Like asking Walmart something about Kmart huh. I had my rear wheel bearings redone, hadnt put back in yet, and was reading about yoke endplay. So I checked mine - .60 and .50. now Im at a standstill trying to figure out what I need to do.
So if you have .008 on the one shaft, I suppose you could just put in a new shaft and button it up.
But you already know how much trouble it is to get out, so at the very least I would put two new side seals in it, and check the torque on the ring gear bolts. Some of them come loose! Then look at the front and see if you want to put a pinion seal in it, that one's more trouble.
After my bad posi case experiences I would spray the corners of the big window and cross pin holes with brake cleaner and look carefully for cracks. Better to know now.
You might call Jim at vtec, he rebuilds a lot of differentials and can probably tell you what’s the best options now days. He had a few used good ones he stuffed in my diff for me. The newer replacements seem to be hit and miss.