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It all came in and I installed it per this wiring diagram:
I followed directions even re-found TDC
Installed distributor with rotor pointing to #1
When I tried to start it did start and run.
Took my foot off gas and she died.
Cranked and cranked but nothing.
Things I have tried
1 Ran separate wire from IGN in fusebox to + terminal on coil
2 Added seperate relay taking source from horn relay and ignition switch as trigger.
3 Swapped battery
4 Voltmeter reads 12.8 at 1st key position but only 10.45 in start position test leads on coil + and engine ground.
5 Voltmeter also reads 12.8 1st key position and 10.45 in start position test leads on battery terminals
6 Ran addional wire from R starter terminal to coil +
7 Bought one of these , put it between spark plu and boot no light also put it between distributor cap and boot no light
What was the problem with the Dual-point Mallory you had?
The first thing I would check because it started - are the plug wires located correctly and not 180 out. I know you said you set it up right. Worth checking.
Personally I would not have bought that unit for that money, who knows what it contains.
is the resistor wire removed from the ign circuit? otherwise it is causing a voltage drop. you want straight hot feeding electronic ignition. not the orig wire that fed the coil with the points setup. and grey tach wire. capped off. goes nowhere. not used in mech tach car. I am used to the large cap HEI, but my boats have lotsa space for distributors. this setup is aftermarket points replacement. looks better in a 68. keep us informed. like how much advance it has, when it comes in. his old dist was 70's drag car ignition. these look less orig in 68's,
I read a post somewhere that I should remove the resistor wire altogether.
Does this mean tracing it back to the fusebox and taking it out from behind?
I removed it and taped it off that and the brown wire
I ran another wire from front of fusebox to the + side of coil but it is acting like the resistor is still there as it drops to 10.45 on cranking
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by mike914
Hello Derekderek
I read a post somewhere that I should remove the resistor wire altogether.
Does this mean tracing it back to the fusebox and taking it out from behind?
I removed it and taped it off that and the brown wire
I ran another wire from front of fusebox to the + side of coil but it is acting like the resistor is still there as it drops to 10.45 on cranking
Don't sweat the 10 volt reading while its cranking (unless the module is a very picky POS) . It's normal for the battery voltage to get dragged down during cranking.
Do you have access to a dwell/tachometer that you can hook to the C- lead to check if the distributor module is actually switching the coil?
Maybe just find a good used original single points distributor with the vacuum advance and follow Lars paper and tune it. Otherwise put the dual point back in!!
if car won't run hook a timing light up. see if any flash when cranking. squirt starting fluid or an ounce of gas down carb to check for lack of fuel. if no spark and hooked up right, return it. get a large cap setup. it is direct copy of ignition that was on most gm cars for a decade. you won't be able to put chrome box over ignition. heartbreaking...
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by mike914
Hello 69427
Yet I do have a tach-dwell meter
not sure what c terminal is I usually connect 1 side to ground the other to coil neg
please advise
You're correct. The terminal I'm referring to, the C-, is the coil terminal with the minus sign. The C+ ties to the ignition switch, and the C- ties to the distributor module.
Put it on the dwell setting and crank it over to see if you get any dwell reading, or put it on the tach setting to see if it reads the cranking RPM. If you don't get any readings, it indicates that the coil is not being switched on and off (assuming you still have 10-12 volts on the C+ during cranking).
i think you got a defective new distributor. ran for 5-10 seconds and quit. cuz if it ran, you are timed and wired correctly. try a squirt of fuel just in case.
Last edited by derekderek; Jul 14, 2019 at 07:50 PM.
HEI Help please
