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Long story, but had to replace the plastic housing on the choke.
Went to reinstall it it all seemed ok. I blipped the throttle , it hung at 7000 and I shut it off. Removed the choke, throttle spring returned and it ran ok. Tach still reads 7000 though.
Pics:
red arm, where does it sit in relation to the throttle shaft?
the wiring terminals are not in the Same clocked orentation as the previous one. Is that if any concern?
New choke housing. Old melted choke. Housing and wire cooked.
Found this image on CF c3Tech. See the green circle? The red arm inside the circle, thats what Im trying to locate a clear close up photo of. Installed in the correct orientation.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Assuming you have the black coil cover correctly installed to the housing with correct engagement to the intermediate shaft lever inside the housing (if this is not correct, nothing is going to work), the housing assembly is then installed to the carb with the choke rod engaged into the hole in the intermediate shaft lever, with the fast idle cam laying on top of the horizontal leg of the choke rod. You can see it pretty clearly in the last photo you posted above.
Why in your first post in this thread you state twice that the tach read 7000 Assuming this was a typo twice what exactly is the RPM too high too low? If all you did was replace the plastic cover why did you remove the whole assembly? The wiring terminals not being in the same position means you didnt correctly install the cap.
Assuming you have the black coil cover correctly installed to the housing with correct engagement to the intermediate shaft lever inside the housing (if this is not correct, nothing is going to work), the housing assembly is then installed to the carb with the choke rod engaged into the hole in the intermediate shaft lever, with the fast idle cam laying on top of the horizontal leg of the choke rod. You can see it pretty clearly in the last photo you posted above.
Lars
Thanks for chiming in here Lars, much appreciated.
To break your comment down for my mind:
1: Assuming you have the black coil cover correctly installed to the housing with correct engagement to the intermediate shaft lever inside the housing (if this is not correct, nothing is going to work). The end of the intermediate shaft inside the housing is installed inside the end of coiled spring inside the black cap, correct?
2: the housing assembly is then installed to the carb with the choke rod engaged into the hole in the intermediate shaft lever, with the fast idle cam laying on top of the horizontal leg of the choke rod.
So I'm understanding that the "elbow" on the red fast idle arm is installed such a way that the rod coming down from the choke blade goes UNDER the elbow on the arm? (then the rod is installed in the hole in the intermediate shaft, along with the cotter pin)?
Im a visual person, My crude drawings:
The red high idle arm would lay over the choke rod in the area of the green dot? (obviously orientated to the correct position)
The red high idle arm would instal over the end of the choke rod (green) something like below?
Why in your first post in this thread you state twice that the tach read 7000 Assuming this was a typo twice what exactly is the RPM too high too low? If all you did was replace the plastic cover why did you remove the whole assembly? The wiring terminals not being in the same position means you didnt correctly install the cap.
Not a typo. When I first installed the new cap and fired up the car I evidently had it installed incorrectly, something was hanging the throttle open when I stabbed the gas from inside the car. Engine reved, pegged the tach to 7000 so I immediatly shut it off. I removed the choke housing again and as I did I heard the carb spring snap the throttle blades closed. At that point in time I called it a night. The tach still reads 7000, it didn't come back to zero when I shut the car off. I'm thinking I fried something, tach board or something else. I then disconnected the tach wire off the distributor, well, just because.
I removed the assembly so I could remove the cap. It was only afterwards that I realized that I didn't need to remove the entire choke housing to replace the cap. I just didn't know the whole thing didn't need to come off. Chock it up to a rookie mistake.
I lined up the witness marks on the new HOLLEY cap in the same position the burnt up QF cap was, with the alignment marks on the carb body. When I did so the electrical terminals were not in the same orientation. I just figured it was a manufacturing difference.
I know a QF and Holley should be the same animal, but maybe the choke caps were/are different. I need to revisit it for sure.
Last edited by Dodosmike; Sep 17, 2019 at 12:03 PM.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by Dodosmike
Thanks for chiming in here Lars, much appreciated.
To break your comment down for my mind:
1: Assuming you have the black coil cover correctly installed to the housing with correct engagement to the intermediate shaft lever inside the housing (if this is not correct, nothing is going to work). The end of the intermediate shaft inside the housing is installed inside the end of coiled spring inside the black cap, correct?
2: the housing assembly is then installed to the carb with the choke rod engaged into the hole in the intermediate shaft lever, with the fast idle cam laying on top of the horizontal leg of the choke rod.
So I'm understanding that the "elbow" on the red fast idle arm is installed such a way that the rod coming down from the choke blade goes UNDER the elbow on the arm? (then the rod is installed in the hole in the intermediate shaft, along with the cotter pin)?
Im a visual person, My crude drawings:
The red high idle arm would lay over the choke rod in the area of the green dot? (obviously orientated to the correct position)
The red high idle arm would instal over the end of the choke rod (green) something like below?
still having choke issues. Stab the gas 3x, turn the key and it’s fires right up. Billows Dark smoke and is now leaving deposits on the garage floor.
I’m chocking it up to “too much choke”.
If I crank the newly replaced choke housing either way (in extreme) it doesn’t get any smoother. Once it warms up, kick the high idle off and rev it to “clear the throat” so to speak, it runs great.
What do I check?
When it’s cold, Before I crank it over, if I pull the 12v wire off, what would the result be?
Even before I had the choke issue, at idle, the fumes from the exhaust would make your eyes water (no cats). To me it was WAY over fueling. It was suggested by QFT Tech dept to “go up a couple sizes on the idle air bleed jets”. So I did, to little or no improvement.
still having choke issues. Stab the gas 3x, turn the key and it’s fires right up. Billows Dark smoke and is now leaving deposits on the garage floor.
I’m chocking it up to “too much choke”.
If I crank the newly replaced choke housing either way (in extreme) it doesn’t get any smoother. Once it warms up, kick the high idle off and rev it to “clear the throat” so to speak, it runs great.
What do I check?
When it’s cold, Before I crank it over, if I pull the 12v wire off, what would the result be?
Even before I had the choke issue, at idle, the fumes from the exhaust would make your eyes water (no cats). To me it was WAY over fueling. It was suggested by QFT Tech dept to “go up a couple sizes on the idle air bleed jets”. So I did, to little or no improvement.
suggestions?
It's not the choke. First, make sure your timing is set for 36 degrees total, all in at 3000 rpm....with the vacuum canister unplugged. Do this before making ANY carb adjustments. Then, get a vacuum gauge on it and adjust idle screws for maximum vacuum.
Electric choke replacement. QFT 650ss
