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I was driving home from work yesterday and the car lost engine power every couple of seconds, started misfiring and finally died. Pulled off the road and tried to restart, it would catch occasionally but was running really rough and backfiring out of the exhaust. I had it towed home and tried starting it this morning, caught for a second or two a couple times, but still running really poorly.
pulled air cleaner to see if it is getting gas, it is. That pretty much only leaves ignition, is that correct?
Pop the distributor cap -- put a socket on the crank bolt and turn the engine- see if the distributor rotor moves with the crankshaft. If you pull the spark plugs you can roll it backward and not have to worry about the crank bolt. I'd bet on the timing chain/upper gear shedding it's nylon teeth.
But absolutely YES- check the ignition first. Always start with the easy/cheap stuff- always.
Pop the distributor cap -- put a socket on the crank bolt and turn the engine- see if the distributor rotor moves with the crankshaft. If you pull the spark plugs you can roll it backward and not have to worry about the crank bolt. I'd bet on the timing chain/upper gear shedding it's nylon teeth.
But absolutely YES- check the ignition first. Always start with the easy/cheap stuff- always.
But you don't know if the timing gear (nylon) was replaced in the rebuild. If the gear lost a tooth or two while you were driving, it would die on the quick. Also, don't go changing things with the MSD until you figure out what went wrong. Good luck.
Duane
IGN Modules usually, but not always, just die without much warning once they get hot. Waiting 30 min or so for cool down and the modge will be fine, start right up.
The modge has circuit board type wiring inside. The heat breaks the contacts, shuts everything off.
A coil may be erratic. They seldom fail, but again, should work after cool down.
Your next step is verifying a good, strong spark at a plug.
1) pull a plug and check for spark.
2) if spark, pull all of the plugs and check them out. While the plugs are out, turn the crank and see if rotor moves. If rotor moves see if it is pointing to 1 at TDC. That should eliminate timing chain.
3) if no spark, check to see if distributor is getting 12v at various key positions. If so, replace all of that with the parts I have on hand. If not, find out why.
I was driving home from work yesterday and the car lost engine power every couple of seconds, started misfiring and finally died. Pulled off the road and tried to restart, it would catch occasionally but was running really rough and backfiring out of the exhaust. I had it towed home and tried starting it this morning, caught for a second or two a couple times, but still running really poorly.
pulled air cleaner to see if it is getting gas, it is. That pretty much only leaves ignition, is that correct?
If you suspect that an ignition component is heating up and failing, get a can of dust off or other product that sprays compressed air. Its spray will cool a component down very quickly and point you in the right direction. Jerry
very few nylon timing gears are still out there. plastic ages whether driven or not. almost 0 chance of that. got timing light? also works as a spark checker.
Yes ...AND ... $10 worth of cleanup & spruce-spray paint has rebuilt fleets of motors. We used to call these Sherwin-Williams rebuilds when I operated Equipment
Getting a spark on number 1 and 3, was doing it by myself so kinda hard to get a good read on it. It seemed weak and not regular. The tool I had to check it said set at 35 for Chevy hei, it would not arc at 35, had to close the gap down to 20 to get an arc.
I need a better tool to get the plugs out, ordered.
Because of my headers, three out of eight plugs I can't use a ratchet on it. I put either an open-end or a box-end wrench on the 3/8 drive sparkplug socket.
And sometimes you are better off reaching plugs from underneath using ramps, if that helps.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 22, 2019 at 02:16 PM.