When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My advice is to NOT use stainless for any fuel or brake line. Why? Because SS is hard {and difficult} to bend. You can use regular steel line, bend it as you need, THEN use buffing wheel to polish the surface to a perfect shine. then clear coat it for protection.
I use the benders from Imperial, but I do a lot of SS tubing. You could use a cheaper bender but may need to add a little longer handle to get the leverage to bend SS. FYI, I buy my SS 304 from Mcmaster Carr, the "seamless" stuff can be bought in 8ft lengths and is the "soft" annealed temper. If you use the .035 wall tube it will bend easier.
My advice is to NOT use stainless for any fuel or brake line. Why? Because SS is hard {and difficult} to bend. You can use regular steel line, bend it as you need, THEN use buffing wheel to polish the surface to a perfect shine. then clear coat it for protection.
I've bent MILES of Stainless 316 in my Aerospace life..... it's difficult...so the above advice is good.
For sharper bends we used to us this stuff called CERROBEND. It's a VERY low melting point metal.....you pour it into the tube, bend the tube perfectly, because the line cannot kink and then heat up the line and it runs back out again.
Wood's metal, also known as Lipowitz's alloy or by the commercial names Cerrobend, Bendalloy, Pewtalloy and MCP 158, is a eutectic, fusible alloy with a melting point of approximately 70 °C (158 °F). It is a eutectic alloy of 50% bismuth, 26.7% lead, 13.3% tin, and 10% cadmium by weight.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Need to make a new 1/2" fuel line
Any bender kits that arent breaking the bank?
I used to bend all the fuel pressure assemblies in SS and it's not that bad really, but it was 3/8, so a little smaller tube. I use a bender I got from a local fitting company, but it was $125 back then, not sure what it cost now, but it is a badass bending tool. I could bend 180* SS with no issues in the bend at all if needed. The only issue I had with SS is cutting it, it wears the hell out of even a SS cutter after a while. Also, the flaring tool even though I have a very heavy duty tool, SS kicks its *** as well. I only use aircraft grade aluminum now works, bends and cuts great. Good luck with whatever you decide to use. BTW... Did you get that video I sent, what did you think?
Last edited by Buccaneer; Oct 7, 2019 at 07:12 PM.
Also flaring stainless is a PITA!! I have a very good (read $$) hydraulic flaring tool and even with it or good old fashion manually I have to use a lot of caution not to crack the flare when double flaring...just go copper!
If you want the lines to be highly polished, you need to use steel lines. If you don't need them polished, go with NiCu -- it is SOOOO much easier to bend and flare.
I've used stainless line for decades.
Nothing better in my opinion.
It is expensive, and you need to purchase the good tools, otherwise the tools may fail and allow the tubing to move and mess up your line.
Because stainless is expensive plan and measure carefully.
Make as few bends as necessary.
The distance between two bends will change as you are bending so practice a bit and measure carefully.
You will learn.
Aluminum, mild steel and other tube alloys bend and shrink differently.
Buy good flaring tools as well and watch for hairline cracks and the flares edge.
Use stainless ferrules and nuts.
They all polish and look like chrome for years with little maintenance.
Have fun
Im a sucker for shiny stuff, all the lines front to rear are polished stainless, and yes impossible to bend, pita so they gotta be perfect.
Going to put a regulator on maybe that will help with the needle/seat issue Im having.
So those are copper? (Looks cool) how do they holdup over time w/vibration?
They have used copper in radiators for years.... The nickel provides increased ductility. Plus Copper is actually a better conductor of heat than aluminum.
Here's a spare piece I had laying around- super easy to bend even with a $9 bender-
My two cents. We're talking about a fuel line. anything less than perfect cuts and flares has a potential for disaster. Why not use aluminum and then powder coat it to whatever color you like?
If you use ethanol-laced fuel, aluminum is not the best choice for fuel lines. Steel or NiCu lines would be best. The NiCu polishes up well, but has a copper tint to it and must be clear coated (or anodized) to protect that appearance. Polished stainless will stay bright much longer, but it will dull over extended time. But, for ease of fabrication, cost and great appearance you can't beat regular steel line that gets brushed, polished and clear coated
If you want to go crazy, just fab up the NiCu or steel lines and have them chrome plated.
I use the benders from Imperial, but I do a lot of SS tubing. You could use a cheaper bender but may need to add a little longer handle to get the leverage to bend SS. FYI, I buy my SS 304 from Mcmaster Carr, the "seamless" stuff can be bought in 8ft lengths and is the "soft" annealed temper. If you use the .035 wall tube it will bend easier.
That is the bender I use for my stuff. I bent up a lot of stainless lines and have not had any issues. I use them with AN fittings to run in place of braided hose.