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The clutch pivot ball is not at right height. I have an adjustable unit but it is still such a B%^& to get at it with the Tremec.
as I want to rebuilt to steering (new Borgeson) and the front suspension, I thought it might be easiest to remove the engine.
This would allow me to easily deal with the clutch pivot and get it right, With the engine out the rest of the work would be much easier? is that correct?
If I do this.... should I remove just the engine or the engine/trans. Seams to me pulling the radiator would give ample space to just removing he engine.
I would leave the headers and side-pipes in place.
I have pulled many engines but this is my first C3
Is it an original manual trans or was it an automatic?
If you have a removable crossmember I’ve read many posts saying its easier to remove the engine and trans as one unit, If you have a solid crossmember it’s easier to separate the two.
I prefer to remove it with trans/clutch/bell detached and install it with them all together. There are many reasons why but mostly because when you stab it in....you are done.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by Jebbysan
I prefer to remove it with trans/clutch/bell detached and install it with them all together. There are many reasons why but mostly because when you stab it in....you are done.
Jebby
Also, if you're working on getting the clutch fork geometry correct (see my papers on the correct installed angle and geometry), having the entire engine/tranny assembly out of the car in one piece makes fit-up. checking, disassembly for correction, and re-assembly much easier. Pulling the engine/Tremec as an assembly and installing it as an assembly is the only way to do it, especially with a fixed crossmember. Pulling a Tremec out the bottom with the engine in the car is painful.
This isn't a big block, but installation and technique is exactly the same. Engine with Tremec (and supercharger) going in - piece of cake:
Floor jack was used under the tranny tailhousing to guide it up and over the fixed crossmember as the engine was dropped into position. Engine is in - 15 minutes total duration:
I've done several big block pulls/installations the same way, and it's the only way to do it.
Lars
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Personally, I don't agree with that. The engine mounts, bolted to the engine, are an essential alignment tool used during engine installation, and they do not hamper, or interfere with, engine removal.
Lars
Personally, I don't agree with that. The engine mounts, bolted to the engine, are an essential alignment tool used during engine installation, and they do not hamper, or interfere with, engine removal.
Lars
They do hamper installation because you have to come in at an angle. With the mounts on the frame its a straight shot. The input shaft to the crank bushing dose not like a bind. If it was an auto trans ok
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
When I had my 5 speed I used to remove and replace the engine and transmission as an assembly. With the welded in trans crossmember it was a PITA to put the transmission in separately.
Not to argue with Lars or anybody else, I removed and installed a small block in my 69 with the trans in the car. I had a floor jack under the trans so it was easy to align the input shaft with the clutch when I plugged the new engine in. To me the advantage was not having to tilt the engine/trans at an acute angle to do it.
the the solid crossmember and the tight nature of the tremec fit... I am leaning towards just the engine.
I am am not sure how hard it is to get the engine mates back to the trans during install.
To pull it I think either one is fine. I pulled mine as a single unit.
Putting it in, I would definitely install them together. I left the motor mounts on. It was no problem.
The solid cross member CAN come out, it is just a pain to get to the bolts if you need to.
Mine had a TKO600 as well.
Removing the engine as a separate unit is certainly easier. Your main problem putting the engine back in will be correctly aligning the transmission input shaft with the hole where the pilot bushing is located in the flywheel and the splines on the clutch disc. Use your clutch disc alignment tool and say the appropriate prayer before having to wrestle that big block around in tight quarters because you can't get the bell housing completely mated to the block. Good luck, which ever way you go.
68 BB pull engine w or w/o trans
