I did exchange the universal antifreeze to the 50/50 green for pre 1995 gm etc...
i feel better now thanks!

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...specific&pos=1

 

Is that compatible with your aluminium rad?

 

I had my lower rad hose spring a leak the other day. So I flushed out all the coolant and replaced it with Prestone 50/50 which says on the jug is okay for aluminum rads, the guy behind the counter said he uses the same stuff in his nova that has an aluminum rad. So lets see what happens, oh and I also put in a bottle of Lucas water wetter.

 

lol i had to look..i think so...

 

The cooling point of water at 15 psi is 250* and the cooling point of 50% common antifreeze is 268* at 15 psi. 100% A/F would boil even a little higher. But 100% is not recommended because it does not cool as well as water, which is one more reason race cars run 100% water, it just cools better. I almost forgot about the water wetter trick, that works well too, with either one, and helps the cooling rate. Us Vette and BB guys need all the cooling help we can get in that regard. Gotta put that on my to-do list. Straight distilled water, with water wetter and corrosion inhibitors for protection would cool the best. But I don't know if you can get a good enough corrosion inhibitor package without the antifreeze. And even a slow leak, that bleeds off the pressure, can make many cars boil over.

A slow leak can cause other problems as well....I remember well the problem with the dex-cool was oxidation of the organic corrosion inhibitor caused by air getting in the system. It should only be used on a clean air-tight system that has no air space. Somewhere there was a warning that it should not be used on a rad that has a fill-line on the rad, like one with an inch of air space at the top. Most C3 small blocks have this type of rad system. Even the big blocks, or C3s with a metal expansion tank, have a pressurized expansion tank, and trap air into the pressurized system and it gets into the anti-freeze. Meaning you should not use dex-cool. I dislike the stuff so much I would not even recommend it be used it on a plastic non-pressurized expansion tank system like I have seen on the later C3s. Any air intrusion could cause the dreaded jello effect. Oh and that air kills the corrosion inhibitor BTW too. I only ran it in my brand new "dex-cool" car while the car was still brand spanking new. A couple years after that it got standard green.

 

Primary Problem w/ Dex-Cool ... Air + Dex-Cool = Bad

Green-Stuff is relatively immune to effect (oxidation) from Air

CLEAN out the crud ... see this thread and particularly posts by noonie & my # 17

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ner-flush.html