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What is the trick,, the secret, to getting the flare fitting to seal in the calipers. I work it in, then back off, then a little farther in, then back off, etc... until it feels firm and tight. The hose to brake line fitting is the same as the hose to caliper. After hours of back and forth, in and out, watch and check for leaks, there seems to be two that just won't seal. Should I just drive for a week or so and watch the master cylinder and hope that they seal on their own?
I've done two things before. One was to reflare it with a flare tool. Another time, I had took the caliper off and connected the line so there was no stress, bind, weird angle on it.
P.S. If you are forming stainless steel tubing, you need VERY good forming tools because of SS material hardness. Carefully inspect flare sealing surface and mating part sealing surface for imperfections or debris. If you don't see any problems, put a light wipe of grease on the mating part contact area and assemble it again. This will allow further tightening and possibly better sealing. If that doesn't work, go with the Parker flare gaskets.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Oct 25, 2019 at 05:40 PM.
What is the trick,, the secret, to getting the flare fitting to seal in the calipers. I work it in, then back off, then a little farther in, then back off, etc... until it feels firm and tight.
Fastening technique is important. Before you "work it in", is the line perfectly aligned? Not at all crooked. Get it bent perfectly first. Then before you tighten anything, push the line in by hand until you feel the flare make contact. Now hold it that way. Then and only then, tighten and loosen, etc.
If you've done all that and it still leaks, and all the other flaring recommendations her, go with the soft washers.
As said above if using a SS brake line you need a top of line flare tool. I have the East Wood flare tool that was about $250. I haven't used it on SS but it flares that "new" nic-copp" ? line like butter. Buy the line by the foot at Oreilly's.
Having said that proper line prep is critical before flaring. Cut the line and then deburr the end of the line to create a clean internal surface and outside radius.
Plenty of lube as you make the first flare and second double flare.
I haven't used the washers listed above but they could be life savers.
Double flaring tools should be more expensive, and get a quality brand, if you are doing stainless. I don't know of many American cars, that don't have a brake line application available.
I've had troublesome flare connections in the past. One thing that sometimes helps is taking some coarse-ish sandpaper to the flare connection and roughing it up a bit. That way, when the flare is tightened, all of the peaks that the sandpaper missed will squish against the other side of the connection and fill up the valleys the sandpaper made.
Is this a new, reproduction brake line? I've had an issue with lines I bought for my 69 Z/28-had a joint that leaked no matter what I tried. I took it apart and had a look with an eye lupe ((a small, hand-held magnifying tool) and discovered the flare had a scar across the surface-no way that was ever going to seal. Good luck.
Peter