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The last time I was racing my car I noticed, and my friend who was watching confirmed, that during my stationary water burnout both tires spin normally. When I release the line lock and continue spinning the tires to come toward the starting line, sometimes the left tire will stop spinning while the right tire continues to spin till I let off the gas. After that. the car always hooks when I launch, with no traction problems there. So the posi unit is working normally at that point.
This is with drag radials on and 60 ft times in the 1.72 to 1.74 range. On the street, on street tires, the car will always spin both tires continuously - not that I would ever do that. No strange noises or unusual operation.
The rear was rebuilt professionally about 10 years ago and has about 240 runs and 10,000 miles on it. I have changed the oil twice and used GM additive during that time. (Its due for an oil change now.) Any ideas about the one wheel spinning issue? Is the posi unit just worn out?
You could try using some Mobile 1 LS gear oil with out the GM additive. With that said I would guess worn clutch pack and/or broken springs and clutch disc retainers.
That would be my guess as well, something to do with the clutch pack is worn, maybe when it gets hot enough it slips. Im Guessing there is a line lock and it’s not working against the brakes.
could be it’s not so bad that a fluid change will make a difference.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Oct 27, 2019 at 08:10 PM.
There is always the possibility that the tires bead is slipping on the rim. It can and does happen without loosing an ounce of air. The fix is bead screws through the rim.
Thanks guys. I'm thinking of just trying the fluid change. Its been 6 years since I last changed it. The trouble is I won't be able to test it on the track till next season and if I need something more serious I'd rather do that over the winter.
Reelev8r - I am using a line lock for the burnouts.
Could be the tire on the rim but most likely weak springs and or posi setup. When it was rebuilt how was it done? What type of clutches were used and was it setup for racing?
WIth the amount of runs you have on it and age I bet you need to go over the posi again. You also need to check it for cracks and make sure solid steels are used- no fiber coated or snowflakes. In your application I would run ARP RG bolts, Steel cap, solid sleeve, and a good polished and tuned posi. That will hold up to some abuse, if you are at any swap meets look for 30 spline spiders and you can move up to Tom's axles if you want. The good spiders are long gone but I bet there are guys out there like me who stocked up on them so who knows maybe you'll find a nice set.
PS - I was thinking of holding a tech seminar late Spring 2020 on polishing and tuning posi's here in CT. If you are interested in coming up it might be just in time for you to build the diff yourself.
When I set up the 12 bolt posi for my 10.8 second SBC Camaro, I shimmed it up so tight that I had to put a slight chamfer on the pinion shaft to get it in. In doing so, it compressed the clutch packs even tighter. It was as close to being a spool as you could get out of a posi.
Well thanks for all the suggestions, Gary particularly. I'm probably going to hold off till Spring before I pull the diff out. I'll just change the oil over the winter. I might race it once in the Spring, see what happens and attend Gary's tech seminar if I'm lucky. Its fine as is for the limited driving I do with it.
Ok if you or anyone else wants to see how to really polish and tune a posi, let me know. It is a free deal and you won't get this experience anywhere else. Just email me directly and I will see how the calendar looks around the end of May.
After mulling this over for a while, now I'm considering buying a new Eaton posi unit. Then I think I will only have to install carrier bearings and bolt the ring gear on and set the backlash - which I have done in the past. Jegs sells them for $594, free shipping. I don't really know if these are at least as strong as the factory posi unit, which I've been using to this point. Any thoughts from you guys?
They come with huge springs, fiber coated clutches, less per side, powder metal spiders, cast in China, assembled in Mexico. The last one I took apart, new out of the box had excessive endplay in the side gears once the springs were removed.
I recall having a conversation with Tom about them 10+ years ago and he would use them only for the case, he never used those spiders or clutches. Will it work, yes- for your use I don't think it would be my first option. I would rebuild yours over that any day of the week, using the 10-17 spiders and new solid steels, polished and tuned.
The last one I installed per someones request was in a 69 427-390 M20 308 that was street driven less then 500 miles a year.
Remember the old saying, " Fool me once.........
Kind of like all the guys that over paid for what they were told was a real super-10 diff by a known con man but that's a different story being played out in the transaction forum.
There are parts suppliers out there that have 30 spline axles, spiders and steel clutch packs. One of them is Vansteel. When you decide to go through the differential check the case and posi unit for cracks and/or other damage. If everything looks good, add the upgrades and blueprint the assembly. There is also some better bearing caps out there that you may want to invest in just to finish the whole thing off. If you decide to change your gear ratio you should think about having the gears coated. ( Mikronite Technologies, Micro Blue, REM Coatings)
Last edited by Gunfighter13; Oct 31, 2019 at 04:42 PM.
OK thanks Gary and Gunfighter. I guess I'll go the rebuilding route. The 3.73 ratio I have now is perfect for my setup. I will probably pull the diff out in a couple weeks and come up with a plan.
Last edited by BKbroiler; Oct 31, 2019 at 07:15 PM.
You can contact me with any questions when you get it out and I will tell you what to look for.
NOTE. 30 spline axles are either Tom's or Drag vettes regardless of where they are purchased. There are some differences to them. The 30 spline spiders required for them, the good ones, are long gone now. Tom had the best 10-17 x 30 HT spiders and US Gear stopped making them about 7-8 years ago. FInding them is hard and expensive, using the new powder metal or new DANA made in India are not the same quality. The posi case will need to be bored to use them as well. Same for a steel cap. They are available from Tom's, Mark Williams, and others and all have to be machine fit. If you have access to a machine shop they can also make a cap but it will cost more in the long run.
Having been to Garys shop and talked to Gary himself I would go with his advice. He is spot on C3 diff rebuilds. If you want it to last either have him do it or do it yourself with his advice. He is not that far away from you and a visit to him is well worth the drive.
Having been to Garys shop and talked to Gary himself I would go with his advice. He is spot on C3 diff rebuilds. If you want it to last either have him do it or do it yourself with his advice. He is not that far away from you and a visit to him is well worth the drive.
Thanks for your input. I do intend to have Gary involved in this process. I'm moving kind of slow on it now but I will be contacting him to help make some decisions.