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68 327/350 hp. 4 speed. Wanting to change the trans oil. I already tried to suck it out. Very hard to get it all out. The trany doesn't have a drain plug,,, DOH! What's the good, bad, and the ugly in tapping a new drain plug hole in the trans? I already orderd the 1/2 inch NPT plug, 1/2 inch NPT tap and 23/32 drill. I know it isn't "STOCK" but think it's a great upgrade
No drain plugs in C3's (or any other GM car of that vintage). Drop the pan. Leave 2-3 bolts in loose, remove the others then tip the pan by backing off the bolt at one end. Allow most of the oil to drain off, then hold pan up in place and remove the other bolts.
Now, you can drill a hole in the pan and install a drain plug (assembly....NAPA about $8) so that future oil changes will be easier. Make sure you cut the hole in a place where the drain plug has clearance (on the inside).
You can also drill & tap just forward of the rear seal ... for a Zerk grease fitting serving tailshaft bushing ...
... an endurance race thing ... overkill if mostly street.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Its eay if it's out of the car. Pull off the side cover. Stuff a rag in there to contain the aluminium filings. Drill the hole then run the tap in half way. If you tap it to the top of the tap then the plug will go in too far and possibly not seal. While you're in there pop out the round magnet that's glued to the bottom of the case. When I touched mine it fell out. If it pops loose while you're driving bad things happen.
Then make sure the new plug has a magnet built into it.
I wish the trans was out of the car. Not going to happen. I'm going to leave the oil in the trans as I drill the hole. When the drill breaks through to the inside, the oil will carry the shavings out. I also plan to flush with clean oil. I figure a few aluminum shavings wont hurt the steel gears.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by kodpkd
I wish the trans was out of the car. Not going to happen. I'm going to leave the oil in the trans as I drill the hole. When the drill breaks through to the inside, the oil will carry the shavings out. I also plan to flush with clean oil. I figure a few aluminum shavings wont hurt the steel gears.
You just don't want any getting in the synchros. That would harm those but you should be okay flushing it out. Maybe run a little diesel through it before flushing it with fresh oil. Its thinner than 90 weight and should flush it all out. You could squirt a little in through the new hole with a Turkey baster too
If you wanted to be extra careful, you could add some thick grease to the flutes of the drill to catch any shavings. You could also do the same with the tap as it will cut the aluminum threads as well. Jerry
I vote BAD IDEA. No one in the right mind would shove metal shavings through the fill hole, would they? But that's exactly what you want to do to make a drain hole.
Pump out as much fluid as you can with a vacuum pump. Refill, enjoy. Wait until the day comes that the tranny is on the work bench, disassembled, before drilling on it.
No magnet is going to help you here and a good fluid flush is only do-able with tranny laying on its side.
And if just one of the dozens of metal shavings or burrs works its way back to the tail-shaft seal, there WILL be another problem!
Just wait.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Nov 1, 2019 at 08:36 AM.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
You got the trans type wrong also Ken - it's a manual and no pan.
Well I have to mention after decades of working in power plants yes, using the greased drill sometimes is the difference between a 1 hour job and removing a piece of equipment in the millions of dollars value. Now on an aluminum case using magnets won't help catch aluminum chips but it will if a steel case. Also a good flowing vacuum can be located where it is effective. Once the hole gets deep back out and clean then regrease and breakthrough on thin metal.
But I reads like the OP already has a liquid capable vacuum and it's a little work to pop the side cover much much less than removing the trans.
I never did this on my vette, but I did do it on and old Delta 88 that was occasionally a little batty on it's shifting even after changing he filter. I disconnected the tranny fluid line going to the radiator, put a piece of rubber line on it and put the other end of the rubber line into a bucket. Then I started the car for a few seconds and shut it off. I checked the bucket to see how fast it was pumping fluid out to it. Based on that, I ran it for a few more seconds and there was a reasonable amount of fluid in the bucket. So I measured how much, added that amount of fresh fluid to the tranny, and repeated the process. After a few rounds the fluid coming out was pretty clean, so I buttoned it all up and quit for the day. Engine quit due to jumping timing (damned plastic coated metal timing gears) before the tranny gave up.
Obviously, make sure you when you pull the one of the two lines going into the radiator that you have the one sending fluid to the radiator as opposed to the one taking it from the radiator back to the tranny.
I also have a B&W 4-speed with a drain plug . If you want to drill and tap a hole, I think you'd want to remove the side panel first, at which point you wouldn't need to drill and tap a hole.
Last edited by Bikespace; Oct 30, 2019 at 06:08 PM.
If anyone uses the hand vacuum pump, as I do, I came up with a little trick to keep the fluid you suck up from running out the end of the hose and on the floor or down your arm and into your armpit. I bought a cheap brake bleeder hose that has the one way valve for one man operation. Seeing as it didn't work and I bought a Motive, I took the valve out of the hose and put it in the suction gun hose. Just make sure you have it in the right way. Works great.
Duane