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Man this thing is super tight against the steering box. Basically can barely slip a credit card thickness between the box and the header. Yes it’s an OE steering box.
I’ve put new mounts on both the motor and transmission and haven’t gained what I thought would be necessary. It has the factory shims under the mounts https://www.zip-corvette.com/66-74-4...ount-shim.html. It might gain some clearance if I slid the motor back but it’s pinned all the way back on the transmission crossmember slot as it is. Any suggestions...
Man this thing is super tight against the steering box. Basically can barely slip a credit card thickness between the box and the header. Yes it’s an OE steering box.
I’ve put new mounts on both the motor and transmission and haven’t gained what I thought would be necessary. It has the factory shims under the mounts https://www.zip-corvette.com/66-74-4...ount-shim.html. It might gain some clearance if I slid the motor back but it’s pinned all the way back on the transmission crossmember slot as it is. Any suggestions...
Massage (dent) the Header, don't worry about power loss it's not going to cost you any HP. Mine's not as tight as yours (I have late 80's made pipes) but I had to dent several for Spark Plug clearance. If you have doubts about the power loss there's an Engine Masters Video on youtube where they dent the crap out a set of Headers and run the Dyno at each step (humorous and educational). A later episode proves that the size Header they ran during that test was optimal diameter (naysayers thought the tubes were oversized for the engine combo).
I originally had used set of Hooker's , now Doug's when the Hookers rusted through. Both sets touched the steering box. As above, massage them to get some clearance. I worked a gigantic screw driver between the two to depress the pipe.
It might be the motor mounts are different from one side to another,when I first pulled my engine I had about 1/8 to 3/16ths of an inch from the steering box to the headers,when I reinstalled the engine(I took the mounts out) I had no room at all.I pulled the engine again years later and put new motor mounts on and have about 1/16 of an inch.So try switching te mounts left to right before using a hammer.
I originally had used set of Hooker's , now Doug's when the Hookers rusted through. Both sets touched the steering box. As above, massage them to get some clearance. I worked a gigantic screw driver between the two to depress the pipe.
Any pictures pre and post handy work? These are coated headers. I REALLY DON'T want to take to massaging a set of new coated headers unless absolutely necessary. If thats the only way I will most likely return and get a set of non coated to modify.
Already have the V shims under the mounts. Are you saying add more?
All I can say is the Energy motor mounts came with the 1/4" thick plates. I didn't use them on the first install and during warm up (big cam and rough idle) if I let the idle speed get to low the fan would contact the shroud, just enough to make some noise. Installed the plates and no more noise and the headers clear the steering box too.
Any pictures pre and post handy work? These are coated headers. I REALLY DON'T want to take to massaging a set of new coated headers unless absolutely necessary. If thats the only way I will most likely return and get a set of non coated to modify.
No pictures. I don't think I would dent coated headers either. Sounds like spacers may work. You'd have to watch hood clearance, fan shroud clearance, etc.