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I have had my 1979 in storage since January. Before it was parked, stored and raised in the air, the starter was getting starting to fail, so I knew it was going to need replacement before I took it out of storage.
I replaced starter and battery, now I cannot get the starter to turn over. I have head lights, and interior lights, the idiot lights come on , also... and blink off and when I turn the key, to start position. The car never had this issue before, I pulled new starter back out and had it tested, it tested fine.
Is there a fusible link on ignition wire to solenoid that may have blown, or an ignition column switch?
The car is 160 miles away from where I live, and what sucks is that the closest parts store is like 50 miles away, where car is stored. So, I try to bring any parts necessary before I go work on it.
Just moved into another house, so I'm hoping to get it out of the storage facility and down here this weekend.
Thanks, for the help everyone....
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Might be a few things:
Neutral safety switch might be out of adjustment, move the shifter back and forth in 'P' and 'N'.
With the key in 'START" check for 12 volts on the 'S' terminal of the starter solenoid.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
my first guess is its wired wrong as peterbuilt thinks. If it is a fuse you can use his pic for figuring out if your getting power. Pick up a remote starter testing tool. It is just a handle with a momentary switch that you hook up from the S to main lug. When you push the trigger it acts like your ignition switch. If that works check your nuetral saftey switch by trying to start in nuetral vs park. If its a manual check the clutch saftey switch if it has one
This is a process of deductive reasoning. If the neutral switch was fine before, it should be fine now.
If the IGN switch was fine before, then it should be now.
So, what has changed? Starter / Solenoid. This why its a good idea to take pictures of color-coded wiring before disassembling anything. Another fool proof way is to take some masking tape, a felt pen and mark each wire, where it goes. Then disconnect.
We get distracted easily in our complicated lives and forget where car parts go just hours later!
Thanks, all, I'll keep you all posted, I did try to start in neutral, and back, to park. Relatively it does seem like it is something simple, I am just not catching it!
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Hi again.
Rescue Rogers got it right!
HariedDriver:
At the starter jumper from the top large red to the purple on the small inside terminal to see in the starter cranks.
If YES then turn the key to START and see if you have 12 volts on the purple wire.
Post the results and we can go from there.
I had an issue with my vette refusing to turn over, turned the key and nothing would happen. I had suspected there was a fault in the wiring leading to the “s” terminal. I verified the wiring and the starter were working properly by routing a jumper wire from the positive lead of the battery to a switch and then to the “s” terminal on the starter. Flipped the switch and the car turned over. From there I troubleshooted the ignition wiring and the ignition relay/switch thing on top of the steering column was the faulty part.
if power is available to the starter (large lug) and it receives the 12volt signal to the correct terminal, the starter will function.
I got car started by jumping the post terminal to the S terminal on the starter solenoid , with key in the ON Position. Before, that I had a friend turn the key to the start position, and I did not get a reading to S wire in the Start position. I did that a few times to make sure. I do have 12v at the Starter solenoid terminal.
I traced the wires back under the hood, till it gets to a plug, and they are in they are in good shape.
So, now its a matter of why its not getting 12v through the S wire.
Appreciate, all the help, I didn't have the diagram above at the time, I wish I did! Where the car was stored , I had no cell phone service!
I did drive the car 30 miles, to my brothers garage, he had an extra space for the winter. I should be up there in the next few weeks, to tinker with it so more.
I was chasing an intermittent no start issue for months. Caused two rescue calls to tow companies. Replaced the ignition switch at bottom of steering column, did not help Replaced the neutral safety switch, did not help. All this time I was able to jump the starter solenoid terminals and would start right up. I even put a remote starter switch on the solenoid terminals and drove the car that way raising the hood to access the remote switch when needed.
Finally one day while poking around under the hood I found the problem during another ''No Start session''.
There is a heavy gauge, single wire exiting the firewall wiring harness behind the right valve cover, 16 gauge I believe. It travels downward along the firewall through a locking connector and on to the starter solenoid. I had checked that the connector was fully engaged and snapped shut before but this time I grabbed the wires outside the connector and pushed them inward (toward the connector). BINGO, both wires moved inward toward the connector about a quarter inch and the car would start. Turns out that even the connector was fully engaged and locked the wire spades inside the connector had become separated. The needle in the haystack was discovered!!! I slightly distorted the spade end to insure a good friction fit and have not had a problem since.