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I purchased a Electric tachometer conversion kit for my 73 but it did not come with instructions.
I have worked out how to set the needle to zero, but not sure about the settings for the #1 & #2 toggle
switches on the back.
At the moment #1 is in the off position and #2 is in the on position.
Need to get these right before refiting
Who made the conversion? Can you scan and post pics of setup. Maybe a part #?
I suspect that this is an aftermarket setup vice a '75-up Corvette tach board. So, it probably has the ability to work with multiple engines (4, 6, or 8 cylinders).
* Manufactured by a GM supplier for OE accuracy and dependability * Can be used to convert 1953-1962 mechanical tachometers to electronic * Eliminates Rev counter on 1953-1958 Tachometers * Will not work with 1963-1964 tachometers * Also fits 1965-1973 mechanical tachometers * 4 or 8 cylinder configuration so it can be used with LS conversion or any V-8 * Easy installation and simple 3 wire hookup * No cutting, sawing, or modifications to the stock dash-mounts like the original! * Includes all hardware and switching instructions
Whether you are installing a high energy electronic ignition distributor or a complete LS engine conversion, you can now run your factory tachometer without having a drive cable. This electronic conversion kit is a simple 3-wire installation. Instructions and hardware are included. Simply remove your Corvette's factory tachometer from the dash or cluster and mount the new electronic module on the back of your original tachometer face.
Looks like the switches toggle between 4 and 8 cylinder mode. Wilcox Corvette carries these so maybe reach out to them for help, especially since you are halfway around the world. They could probably scan an instruction sheet and send it to you.
The kits are pretty basic with three wires, black is ground, red hot and green is the input. Once installed in the face or housing you can run a power wire to it, run a ground wire to it and then get your signal to the green from your source. If the tach is not reading correctly and zeroed out, tweak the potentiometer on the board to dial it in (it's the square blue box with the white slotted adjustment in it). If you don't have a signal generator then you can test it by putting the old generic dwell/tach meter on it.