Looking closely at buying one of the steering rack conversion kits for my 78. Anybody have a kit they like better than the others? If it comes time to change out the rack what year/ car do you order one for?

 

Near 20 years ago, I used a junkyard rack from a '89 Grand Am and made my own mount design and a welder buddy did the metal work....took two attempts, but it's been in the car since then, no issues....in fact the tie rods were extended, and the adapter fitting for the CTO rack was machine shop made...input linkage was a combo of various junkyard pulls using only two universal joints

 

I went with the Flaming River Manual version. I bought it from an guy who was selling off his project- and was able to get it for less than half the price- missing a few bolts.

I would have a tought time paying retail ($1400+) as it required some redoing the mounting point- beefing up the frame with tube to keep from crushing the frame- and I used better bolts ( button head to fit flush better)

The cradle was really nice- the rack and pinion was really nice...but required to much fab work on my end to warrant the retail price point. I do have a "non- stock" engine - so I had to cut the cradle and redo a part of it...

Rather than drill a hole through the motor mount as the kit said to do- I notched it and used two sets of u-joints versus one.

I would use the piece again- BUT wouldn't pay full retail for it!!!

For the power part- I added a Nissan Electric power steering motor- and the set up feels great!!!

 

Would the frame need reinforcements for any kit or was it just that particular one? Richard I have followed your thread “not a stock engine” is quite the understatement.

 

If you want to go nuts on the conversion, take a look at this kit.

https://www.detroitspeed.com/speedra...s-032072-group

 

I would look at GTR1999's OEM custom blueprint/rebuild of the OEM factory box as well OR borgeson which is a BIG upgrade for most without some of the hassles/shortcomings of R&P on a C3......

 

Don't know how the others mount-
here's an old thread on the R & P designs-

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...on-report.html

Ridetech does sell and affordable frame stiffened for the Borgansen steering box...which is another option

https://www.ridetech.com/products/st...reinforcement/

Nuts...or broke....

 

I have a flaming River Part No.: FR312PW Kit in my 1978 corvette. This is the kit for Power Steering Cars. My car is used for track days so the unit can take the abuse and the cradle adds a lot of stiffening to the frame for better handling.
This kit doesn't require any modifications to your car to install. It bolts right in. BUT

Here is what they don't tell you when doing the R&P Conversion. And this may apply to other kits as well.

Notes for people going for Power Steering Kits.

This Flaming river kit requires less flow & pressure from the Power Steering Pump (standard GM pump) or you get too much power assist which drives like a over assisted power steering. Most noticeable on highway driving light twitchy feeling. This is solved but adding a flow restrictor to your Power Steering.
Here is a picture of the factory vs the new flow restrictor.




The ideal setup would be a variable flow power steering pump. This unit I got from TurnOne
https://www.turnone-steering.com/col...low-restrictor

As for hose routing from the Rack to your Power steering Pump nothing is factory about the hoses Flaming River supply. This is a universal kit and the only part of this kit that is corvette is the cradle. Well almost.

Here is what is a problem with the cradle. The (mustang rack flaming river) unit is not mounted centered in the frame. This is due to get the rack needs clearance from other items to allow for steering connections. What does this mean,
The driver side tie rod link is closer to the tie rod vs the passenger side. At first you think this is not a big deal, BUT IT IS.
Flaming Rivers response:
Center the steering unit there is equal distance both sides.

But if you do this it will reduce the full lock to lock turning radius, and for me this was a big change. This was about 3/4 steering wheel turn in one direction. So a total of 1.5 steering wheel turn.
To fix this is also a simple change. The driver side uses the factory Tie rod end moog ES323 , and the passenger side uses a tie rod from a 1969 Camaro ES381R

Again a simple fix. You can now center the steering rack and get the maximum turning radius of the rack.

That's the end of the simple fixes using this rack.

Now other racks may have similar problems to get the steering centered while still allowing for maximum turning radius.

The connection from the rack to the steering column is the biggest problem. You will have 3 problems.

1. The d shaped keyed joints for the connections don't align the steering wheel properly so the return direction signal mechanisms don't work anymore. To fix this you would need to make a new keyed point on the steering column. (this is not easily resolved). Of course you can always set the steering wheel centered (reduced turning radius problem of non centered rack)
2. Angles for the joints may be more than the joint allows for ( binding or stiffness while turning ) This requires shortening of the steering column. I was able to get this to work without shortening the steering column, its not perfect but I was ok with some variable stiffness while turning.
3. You will need to fabricate a support bracket for the connection rod from the rack to the steering column. Supplied one doesn't work well.

I made this to use the factory frame holes from the steering box.

Also the shaft connecting the 2 joints will need to be shortened to your requirements to get the best angles of the joints. This will take time to get the best smooth operation.

Here is what it looks like from the driver side frame.


The main reason I made a change is because the factory parts / aftermarket parts don't take the abuse of track days, mainly around the issues about leaks.

borgeson steering box can also be an option, but you will need to make sure you have room to install.

As far as how it drives, its a great improvement vs the factory setup, but at a cost. For basic street driving you can do better with other options.

But with what ever option you choose, ask the questions.

Will the turn signals operate the same.
Will the steering feel better (eliminate light twitchy)
How will slow turning (parking) fell better
How will the turning radius be effected.
Will you need to shorten the steering Column
Will the steering rack center in the frame.

 

My 78 is a street car first with the occasional track days (I’m not competitive it’s just for fun). It’s definitely time to rebuild the front end steering, it wanders and pulls. Maybe The rack isn’t the best solution for my needs. What would be best for a street car that sees light track days, Borgansen, rack, or just rebuild what I have?

 

Borgeson....or GTR1999 Rebuild of the factory OEM box...

Gary did my box 10+ years ago and I do not track my 78 C3...I cannot tell you how much better the OEM box is when rebuilt correctly with internal mods that Gary performs to eliminate ALL PLAY from the factory steering....I love my OEM blueprinted factory box.......

BTW- I have a 10 C6Z06 with superb factory R&P as a comparator.....for street driving and occasional autocross the borgeson or GTR1999 box are fine..in my opinion

 

Track days ? Road Course or Autocross ?

But if the system doesn't leak fluids I would start with the suspension and leave the steering as is. Steering meaning gearbox / control valve.

With suspension you need to make sure every part from control arms / bushings / to steering tie rods , idler arm, pitman arm, ball joints , Wheel Bearings / spindles are working within specs.

I would guess you have many worn parts in this area for a car to wander and pull regardless of alignment specs.

So if you are into DIY Repairs you need to also consider DIY Alignment. This allows you to test / understand what needs attention.

eg. Here is how I determine worn suspension parts.

I take toe-in settings with the car in my garage without the wheels on skid pads. Then I get the car on skid pads and compare how much the toe in settings change. If not within-1/16" I start to look for what is causing the toe-in to change.

This could be anything from worn control arm bushings, ball joints , tie rod's etc. When toe-in settings change while driving you get "it wanders and pulls" but also consider this could also be a problem in the rear suspension where the thrust angle changes due to worn trailing arm bushings (rear toe-in).

So changing the steering before everything else is fixed means you might fix something that doesn't need fixing to start with or you may be happy with how things are.

So start with the suspension front / rear.

 

I love the Borgeson in my car for street and track use, highly recommend using the Ridetech brace too though. I can't imagine that a rack setup could be much if any better, and the Borgeson is much less hassle, cheaper, and still looks factory if that's a concern (e.g. for rego checks).

 

I have the Steeroids Rack & Pinion, pretty straight forward install and works well....

 

I also have Steeroids and installed them a month ago, and got an alignment. It is way better than my stock setup! Easy install and all bolt on.

 

I had the Steroids on my car with and LS1. I think it had too much pressure and was really hard to drive. I know others have had good luck with the kits so I assume it was a pressure issue. I was looking at a proportioning valve from Heidts PS-101 but then came across a deal on a borgenson box. I am not sure if that Heidts valve would have worked or not but thought I would throw that out there in case anyone else was interested or had thoughts on it.

 

I actually have the Heidts valve installed with my Borgeson. Haven't played with it much, but even with it set to maximum assist it obviously was still bypassing some fluid and slightly lowered the assist, making it more to my liking.

 

Many years before, I had changed the engine over to serp drive, and of course all the accessories too, and of course the PS pump was using the chassis/frame mounted reservoir.....everthing worked fine, honestly I don't remember when I changed the pump valve/flow/pressure stuff over, when it had stock steering, then when I converted to rack steering 20 years ago, then when adding hydroboost brakes......probable when adding the rack, as that's the big change on the valving, BTW, the valving all bolted in place, no change....I even used the 3/8 flare fitting on the pump and went to HB/rack via a compression fitting in to another factory hose with the end cut off .....so I have a 3/8 brass compression, household plumbing fitting behind my p/s pump.....20 years later......

 

Thank you for all the responses I will look int the Borgesan as well as the steroids kit.

 

Check these guys out, too.

https://www.unisteer.com/corvette/se...nion-kits.html

 

That’s an interesting looking kit. It looks like the rack moves from the center. Are you using this kit Fred?