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Aluminum Intake Worth It?

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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 06:46 AM
  #1  
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Default Aluminum Intake Worth It?

Hello folks.
I recently imported a '76 with a L48, (bone stock), and an automatic transmission.
Where I live, (south-east France), torque is the way to go. You're always going around a curve at lowish speeds, up a hill, etc. There are very few times the car can stretch its legs.
I'm installing a proper 2" dual exhaust, and an "H" crossover, (original exhaust manifolds). Also, a new distributor, (mine's worn out), and I can probably advance the timing more than factory specs because the normal gas here is 95 octane, and 98 is available everywhere.
What I'm wondering is, should I go for an Edelbrock 2701 dual-plane intake? The car came with a new Edelbrock carb on it.
For torquey performance under 4,000 RPM, is my factory cast iron intake up to the job?
Thanks for any input.
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Dec 8, 2019, 05:28 PM
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I disagree with the others. Do the 2101 and put a set of long tube headers on it.....go with a 2.5" exhaust to have enough room for the future. You cannot use the 2701 with a Q-jet carb.
Set he timing at 36 degrees @ 3000rpm. If you do these four things, you will be amazed at how much better the car runs....a lot more torque and response.\
Don't play with the gear....you will regret it on the interstate.
The intake is light years ahead of the miserable L-48/L-82 low rise unit....and it use the block off 1204 fel pro gasket to block the heat riser....this will cool the intake considerably.
Get ceramic coated headers.....the underhood temp will be much lower.
You will find the car comes out of the hole a lot harder and has at lot more midrange.......since you are not changing the cam.....it will nose over around 4800 rpm......put a 268H Comp Magnum cam in it with roller rockers, good pushrods and Z28 valvesprings and the fun factor increases another 40 horsepower on what you did......then the party is over until you buy new heads.......but all these mods with the cam will make the car run about as well as a 350/350 in 1969.....not too shabby for old tech.

Jebby
Old Dec 8, 2019 | 08:44 AM
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Not worth the effort to change it. Saves a little weight but not much else.
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 10:37 AM
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Leave the engine alone.Change the rear gear. That would suite your driving enviroment

Last edited by gjohnson; Dec 8, 2019 at 10:38 AM.
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by stingr69
Not worth the effort to change it. Saves a little weight but not much else.
Originally Posted by gjohnson
Leave the engine alone.Change the rear gear. That would suite your driving enviroment


contact CF member Lars and request his white papers on tuning your distributor and your carb

Last edited by jackson; Dec 8, 2019 at 11:00 AM.
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 12:24 PM
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It’s really what the original intake was made for. More torque than rpm.

i agree with these guys, new intake will do nothing really. If you want more torque get more compression or lower gearing. The 3.08 rear diff is a dog. Get a 3.55 or 3.73 and you’ll be amazed at the difference.
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 01:03 PM
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Good. This is the kind of info I'm looking for. I may as well stay with the original intake.
I'm fairly sure the diff is a 3.08, and I know for sure it's a posi. It leaks a little, but is quiet and has no chattering problems. However, it's a pretty high-mileage car, so maybe a rebuilt diff with slightly higher gears is a really good idea.
Thanks.
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 03:42 PM
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I would recommend going aluminum ! ! Lighter , cooler fuel mixture , flows better , easy to install . Nothing but upside.
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 03:50 PM
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Hey, its your money, your car. Do what you want to do. Sometimes you just need to buy a flashy upgrade, not for a huge amount of power, but rather for yourself.
A new Intake will add bling and maybe a few horse, regardless of what others say. JUST DO IT!

The dizzy upgrade is something you need to learn to do yourself.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Dec 8, 2019 at 03:54 PM.
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 04:00 PM
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I don't have numbers but I got a noticeable improvement from headers. Since you are installing a 'proper 2" dual exhaust', go all the way to the cylinder heads with your new system. I would ditch the cast iron intake in the interest of shedding a few pounds and that's a pretty easy swap.
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 04:23 PM
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It doesn't matter if the aluminum flows better or not, the heads are the flow problem. And the OP stated that low rpm is where the performance is desired.

How exactly would it provide a cooler intake charge? Look at the underside of an aluminum intake, no oil splash shield, aluminum absorbs heat really well from the lifter valley, also dissipates it well but while the engine is running the heat keeps getting added so it may make a difference after the engine is shut off or if the intake charge is moving fast enough or you have an air gap. I think you'll find that the intake charge temp is effected significantly more by other factors such as CAI or underhood air intake or air gap or not or splash shield or not etc.
weight savings, sure, so take off the cast iron manifolds and put on headers then you'll get weight savings plus performance. remove the spare tire, that's weight savings.
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 05:09 PM
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The more you modify the car in the future the more an intake change will help. And remember an intake bought for today's use may not be the best for future mods.. the Edelbrock carbs aren't great. Follow Lars advice on tuning add headers and exhaust. What I'd do with 98 pump gas wow.
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 05:28 PM
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I disagree with the others. Do the 2101 and put a set of long tube headers on it.....go with a 2.5" exhaust to have enough room for the future. You cannot use the 2701 with a Q-jet carb.
Set he timing at 36 degrees @ 3000rpm. If you do these four things, you will be amazed at how much better the car runs....a lot more torque and response.\
Don't play with the gear....you will regret it on the interstate.
The intake is light years ahead of the miserable L-48/L-82 low rise unit....and it use the block off 1204 fel pro gasket to block the heat riser....this will cool the intake considerably.
Get ceramic coated headers.....the underhood temp will be much lower.
You will find the car comes out of the hole a lot harder and has at lot more midrange.......since you are not changing the cam.....it will nose over around 4800 rpm......put a 268H Comp Magnum cam in it with roller rockers, good pushrods and Z28 valvesprings and the fun factor increases another 40 horsepower on what you did......then the party is over until you buy new heads.......but all these mods with the cam will make the car run about as well as a 350/350 in 1969.....not too shabby for old tech.

Jebby
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 06:37 PM
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not so many interstate hwys in provincial, alpine SE France.
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 06:41 PM
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Not too many French Drag Strips to "come out of the hole" either.

But we get the drift.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Dec 8, 2019 at 06:42 PM.
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 07:05 PM
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So I guess he should just leave it parked then right guys?
Or do exactly as you two said.....or else forget it.
Wow.
BTW.....Why TF would you put a gear in a car that revs to 4800 rpm? So it can run like a 1990 454 SS pickup?

Jebby

Last edited by Jebbysan; Dec 8, 2019 at 07:22 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 06:57 AM
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Contact @lars first for his timing papers. The Lars tune, plus sorting out the distributor, made a HUGE difference on my 79 L48, with a 2" dual exhaust and 3.55 (stock) rear. It is still a dog, though, with the stock torque converter.

For a big improvement in low RPM performance for a small amount of money, but with a large amount of install labor, consider a torque converter with a higher stall RPM.

If the OP wants to really spend money on this car to make it more fun in the twisty hills, a manual transmission is the way to go.
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 07:37 AM
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Don't Bother on a stock motor..............

In fact, please read this article on a built 500 gross HP SBC.......

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/dual...d-comparisons/

Look at the facts and read carefully...facts matter.....most low rise intakes will give you 5-7 more gross HP/TQ which you will not feel ....

"We have to acknowledge how amazingly tight this field is in terms of peak torque. How close? It is fair to say that it would be difficult to feel the difference of 2 percent of power. That’s 10 lb-ft of torque, the difference between the Third Place Edelbrock EPS manifold at 506 lb-ft and the Professional Products Crosswind (52026), which placed 20th"

Headers, 2.5 exhaust, and timing is where the power is for a stock motor...an intake will do little to nothing over the stock L-48 cast iron manifold....

Last edited by jb78L-82; Dec 9, 2019 at 07:43 AM.
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To Aluminum Intake Worth It?

Old Dec 9, 2019 | 08:22 AM
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There's isn't alot of clearance under stock hood. Most of the better intakes cause hood to contact carb..
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 08:58 AM
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You may not get detectable differences in power, but man its nice when you can throw out the 35 lb cast aluminum intake when its done. And a 2104 worked for me with my Q-jet. Seeing as I picked that up for 50 bucks on Craiglist, I'd call it worth it.
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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
Don't Bother on a stock motor..............

In fact, please read this article on a built 500 gross HP SBC.......

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/dual...d-comparisons/

Look at the facts and read carefully...facts matter.....most low rise intakes will give you 5-7 more gross HP/TQ which you will not feel ....

"We have to acknowledge how amazingly tight this field is in terms of peak torque. How close? It is fair to say that it would be difficult to feel the difference of 2 percent of power. That’s 10 lb-ft of torque, the difference between the Third Place Edelbrock EPS manifold at 506 lb-ft and the Professional Products Crosswind (52026), which placed 20th"

Headers, 2.5 exhaust, and timing is where the power is for a stock motor...an intake will do little to nothing over the stock L-48 cast iron manifold....
When you combine it with everything else......the manifold is worth over 20 horsepower.........Hot Rod did not test a stock Q-Jet manifold on the test engine so the figures are not relevant.
Say what you will......but it is and always will be a pretty terrible piece.......just comparing it next to a 2101 will confirm that.
Over the years...several magazines did several step by step write ups on the Targetmaster/Goodwrench 350 (Which is almost exactly like an L-48) and always have seen 20hp gains with a real intake manifold....even with a stock cam.......now you are set for when you DO want to add a camshaft.....
The real story is how the headers and intake work together.......they boost torque production immensely down low.......this translates into power you can feel in the seat.
I did this to a 76 L-48 a few years back.......the headers, intake and timing transformed the car.......it would not even spin them from a dead stop before but it certainly would after......
Add a 30 lb. weight reduction, EGR delete, heat riser delete and overall making everything cleaner looking.......it is one of the first mods I believe should be done to an old Carter era Vette.

Jebby

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