Aluminum Intake Worth It?

I recently imported a '76 with a L48, (bone stock), and an automatic transmission.
Where I live, (south-east France), torque is the way to go. You're always going around a curve at lowish speeds, up a hill, etc. There are very few times the car can stretch its legs.
I'm installing a proper 2" dual exhaust, and an "H" crossover, (original exhaust manifolds). Also, a new distributor, (mine's worn out), and I can probably advance the timing more than factory specs because the normal gas here is 95 octane, and 98 is available everywhere.
What I'm wondering is, should I go for an Edelbrock 2701 dual-plane intake? The car came with a new Edelbrock carb on it.
For torquey performance under 4,000 RPM, is my factory cast iron intake up to the job?
Thanks for any input.
Popular Reply
Set he timing at 36 degrees @ 3000rpm. If you do these four things, you will be amazed at how much better the car runs....a lot more torque and response.\
Don't play with the gear....you will regret it on the interstate.
The intake is light years ahead of the miserable L-48/L-82 low rise unit....and it use the block off 1204 fel pro gasket to block the heat riser....this will cool the intake considerably.
Get ceramic coated headers.....the underhood temp will be much lower.
You will find the car comes out of the hole a lot harder and has at lot more midrange.......since you are not changing the cam.....it will nose over around 4800 rpm......put a 268H Comp Magnum cam in it with roller rockers, good pushrods and Z28 valvesprings and the fun factor increases another 40 horsepower on what you did......then the party is over until you buy new heads.......but all these mods with the cam will make the car run about as well as a 350/350 in 1969.....not too shabby for old tech.
Jebby

contact CF member Lars and request his white papers on tuning your distributor and your carb
Last edited by jackson; Dec 8, 2019 at 11:00 AM.
i agree with these guys, new intake will do nothing really. If you want more torque get more compression or lower gearing. The 3.08 rear diff is a dog. Get a 3.55 or 3.73 and you’ll be amazed at the difference.

I'm fairly sure the diff is a 3.08, and I know for sure it's a posi. It leaks a little, but is quiet and has no chattering problems. However, it's a pretty high-mileage car, so maybe a rebuilt diff with slightly higher gears is a really good idea.
Thanks.
A new Intake will add bling and maybe a few horse, regardless of what others say. JUST DO IT!
The dizzy upgrade is something you need to learn to do yourself.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Dec 8, 2019 at 03:54 PM.
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How exactly would it provide a cooler intake charge? Look at the underside of an aluminum intake, no oil splash shield, aluminum absorbs heat really well from the lifter valley, also dissipates it well but while the engine is running the heat keeps getting added so it may make a difference after the engine is shut off or if the intake charge is moving fast enough or you have an air gap. I think you'll find that the intake charge temp is effected significantly more by other factors such as CAI or underhood air intake or air gap or not or splash shield or not etc.
weight savings, sure, so take off the cast iron manifolds and put on headers then you'll get weight savings plus performance. remove the spare tire, that's weight savings.





Set he timing at 36 degrees @ 3000rpm. If you do these four things, you will be amazed at how much better the car runs....a lot more torque and response.\
Don't play with the gear....you will regret it on the interstate.
The intake is light years ahead of the miserable L-48/L-82 low rise unit....and it use the block off 1204 fel pro gasket to block the heat riser....this will cool the intake considerably.
Get ceramic coated headers.....the underhood temp will be much lower.
You will find the car comes out of the hole a lot harder and has at lot more midrange.......since you are not changing the cam.....it will nose over around 4800 rpm......put a 268H Comp Magnum cam in it with roller rockers, good pushrods and Z28 valvesprings and the fun factor increases another 40 horsepower on what you did......then the party is over until you buy new heads.......but all these mods with the cam will make the car run about as well as a 350/350 in 1969.....not too shabby for old tech.
Jebby
Or do exactly as you two said.....or else forget it.
Wow.
BTW.....Why TF would you put a gear in a car that revs to 4800 rpm? So it can run like a 1990 454 SS pickup?
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Dec 8, 2019 at 07:22 PM.
For a big improvement in low RPM performance for a small amount of money, but with a large amount of install labor, consider a torque converter with a higher stall RPM.
If the OP wants to really spend money on this car to make it more fun in the twisty hills, a manual transmission is the way to go.
In fact, please read this article on a built 500 gross HP SBC.......
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/dual...d-comparisons/
Look at the facts and read carefully...facts matter.....most low rise intakes will give you 5-7 more gross HP/TQ which you will not feel ....
"We have to acknowledge how amazingly tight this field is in terms of peak torque. How close? It is fair to say that it would be difficult to feel the difference of 2 percent of power. That’s 10 lb-ft of torque, the difference between the Third Place Edelbrock EPS manifold at 506 lb-ft and the Professional Products Crosswind (52026), which placed 20th"
Headers, 2.5 exhaust, and timing is where the power is for a stock motor...an intake will do little to nothing over the stock L-48 cast iron manifold....
Last edited by jb78L-82; Dec 9, 2019 at 07:43 AM.
In fact, please read this article on a built 500 gross HP SBC.......
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/dual...d-comparisons/
Look at the facts and read carefully...facts matter.....most low rise intakes will give you 5-7 more gross HP/TQ which you will not feel ....
"We have to acknowledge how amazingly tight this field is in terms of peak torque. How close? It is fair to say that it would be difficult to feel the difference of 2 percent of power. That’s 10 lb-ft of torque, the difference between the Third Place Edelbrock EPS manifold at 506 lb-ft and the Professional Products Crosswind (52026), which placed 20th"
Headers, 2.5 exhaust, and timing is where the power is for a stock motor...an intake will do little to nothing over the stock L-48 cast iron manifold....
Say what you will......but it is and always will be a pretty terrible piece.......just comparing it next to a 2101 will confirm that.
Over the years...several magazines did several step by step write ups on the Targetmaster/Goodwrench 350 (Which is almost exactly like an L-48) and always have seen 20hp gains with a real intake manifold....even with a stock cam.......now you are set for when you DO want to add a camshaft.....
The real story is how the headers and intake work together.......they boost torque production immensely down low.......this translates into power you can feel in the seat.
I did this to a 76 L-48 a few years back.......the headers, intake and timing transformed the car.......it would not even spin them from a dead stop before but it certainly would after......
Add a 30 lb. weight reduction, EGR delete, heat riser delete and overall making everything cleaner looking.......it is one of the first mods I believe should be done to an old Carter era Vette.
Jebby












