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The pictures show a streak on the underside of the shield box cover that was left by the coil wire. When installed, the cover pushes against the wire because it has a straight terminal on the distributor end. The ignition wire set is from LL and the shield box is from Paragon both supposedly are correct for this application. The car has ~230 miles on it since a total restoration.
I'd like to know if this is an indication of arcing, and if so, what can be done about it?
It looks like the clear plastic piece is in place on the inside of the cover. It's there to help prevent arcing. Is it burned through or just scuffed from the coil wire touching it? You might also try lowering the coil in the clamp mounted to the intake to get a bit more room between the wire and the lid.
It looks like the clear plastic piece is in place on the inside of the cover. It's there to help prevent arcing. Is it burned through or just scuffed from the coil wire touching it? You might also try lowering the coil in the clamp mounted to the intake to get a bit more room between the wire and the lid.
Yes, the plastic piece is in place and no, it's not burned through so it could just be abrasion, still not sure. Can't see any carbon tracking though.
The coil is low enough for the wire to clear the cover because there's a 90* terminal on that end. It's the dizzy end that's the potential problem because of the straight terminal on that end. I put a couple of washers under the screw holes which raises it ~3/16". Maybe that'll help.
Is the coil mounted as low as possible in the bracket? If the car isn't being judged, make up a new coil wire with better wire and add an additional sleeve before crimping the last terminal onto the wire.
I highly doubt that arcing would occur with that coil wire AND the plastic insulator in place. If the coil can be lowered (without the base actually touching the intake manifold...heat transfer), all the better.
If that coil wire was arcing, it would run like ****. Is it?
Well, yes and no. I'm in the middle of troubleshooting why it runs beautifully when cold and briefly at full operating temp then it starts idling erratically and sputtering off the line with an occasional kick-back through the carb. Even blew a couple of power valves. It's a stock tri-power setup with a solid Engle cam. It ran perfectly for the first 230 miles after the restoration then started acting up.
Well, yes and no. I'm in the middle of troubleshooting why it runs beautifully when cold and briefly at full operating temp then it starts idling erratically and sputtering off the line with an occasional kick-back through the carb. Even blew a couple of power valves. It's a stock tri-power setup with a solid Engle cam. It ran perfectly for the first 230 miles after the restoration then started acting up.