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For my ‘69, BB I see various starter remedies or options:
$35 Heat Shield Blanket
$30 Heat Shield Metal
$29 New Auto Zone Stock Starter (Lifetime Warranty)
$120 New A/C Starter
$150 New High Torque Starters
$160 Gear Reduction Starters (84-87 = $250)
It seems as though the gear reduction starter is the best scenario I realize it costs more and that stock starters can cost as little as $29 – but being stranded really sucks. Even the slow starts, barely cranking situations can cause me to get a bit redfaced as well as pi$$ed.
Even with a lifetime warranty, if money is an issue, one also has to incorporate the costs and pains with constant maintenance or repetitive replacement.
Utlimately, I am thinking about the Gear Reduction Starter, as it has more torque and evidently does not act as a heat sink. Especially with a black, big block Vette in Houston,Texas, heat is overwhelming.
It seems as though the gear reduction starter is the best scenario
Utlimately, I am thinking about the Gear Reduction Starter, as it has more torque and evidently does not act as a heat sink. Especially with a black, big block Vette in Houston,Texas, heat is overwhelming.
This is a serious question, but I couldn't help but to laugh while typing... Does the starter sound like a Chrysler starting? :lol:
Also - the starter Yellow 72 suggests is less expensive than the one sold in Ecklers/MidAmerica. Clem - I read up on your remote solenoid... I can see the advantages here - My first thought was that it may be easier for possible theft, but as I think it through, maybe I am incorrect, as anyone can reach underneath a car and jump the stock starter solenoid, whereas this would require the hood to be opened. Thoughts?
High priced converted junk will not work as good as as a high torque cast iron nose original. If you buy one, carry your original as a backup. Later model BB`s use an aluminum nose similar to the 350`s Nearly all my toys run high compression high HP engines and all have OEM starters. Starters and generators [ alts ] are a part of our business and we have repaired those high priced units, and I recommend the OEM style for reliability. Always attach the bracket supplied with car. Many don`t and could have problems if left off.. :D Heat shields are really not necessary unless header equiped and the pipe is actually setting on the switch. I use the large tube competiton Hooker headers and still do not need any heat shields. If everything is right, not necessary. Just more junk. :cool:
GM installed the remote solenoid on all its BBC motorhomes because of starter problems caused by the exhaust heat. i have no idea about the thieft problem. :chevy
When I put a CVR Protorque starter on my 82, I thought the same thing - Chrylser. Now, do not even notice it. BTW, that and a blanket wrap solved all my heat soak problems several years ago. No other way to go in my opinion.
For a BB, get a starter from a 97 GM 454 truck. It's gear reduction, very light weight (8lbs), small, and cranks like crazy. I'm thrilled with mine. Only pitfall is the holes are metric so 3/8" bolts are loose in the starter nose. I got some brass tubing from the HW store and inserted into the starter nose holes and it worked fine. The brass tubes were 10 thou wall, with a 3/8" ID.