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Borgeson Steering Conversion - Collapse or Cut?

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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 04:05 PM
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Default Borgeson Steering Conversion - Collapse or Cut?

I finally broke down and bought the power steering conversion. My manual box needed a significant rebuild and I figured that I might as go with the quicker ratio and a brand new box.

Most everyone I spoke to about this conversion is very happy with it. There is one item that concerns me. I spoke to a gentleman at a show last year with a 1969 very much like mine. He stated he loved the system, but immediately after the column was collapsed he started to have a scrape when turning the wheel. I believe I saw another instance of this on the forum as well.

The column in my car currently is a tilt and telescopic wheel from a late 1969 to 1976. I bought this rebuilt and it only has approximately 600 miles since the rebuild.

I understand that the column collapse process shears a plastic part inside the column. By itself, this does not cause any interference. Does anyone know what parts potentially scrape after the column collapse? Is there any process or procedure that would help to avoid this?

Has anyone shortened the column on an early C3 rather than collapse the column? I have seen comments that approximately 2 1/4" would need to be cut. This looks like it would not retain enough of the splines to fit the rag joint coupler at the shaft end, but it may be close.

Given how expensive and rare a nice tilt/telescopic column is, I want to avoid issues.

Any input is appreciated.

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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 02:37 AM
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When you say cut you mean cut a section out and reweld the splined part back on ? To do that properly you gotta pull the shaft out , that's a lot of work.

The only thing I can think of that would cause a scraping feel could be the lower bearing after having been subjected to hammer blows (through the shaft ) especially if it's an original bearing that has usually dried out and needs some tlc. No reason you can't take that bearing out while you adjust then put it back in after.

Just some ideas i have on this subject.
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bazza77
When you say cut you mean cut a section out and reweld the splined part back on ? To do that properly you gotta pull the shaft out , that's a lot of work.

The only thing I can think of that would cause a scraping feel could be the lower bearing after having been subjected to hammer blows (through the shaft ) especially if it's an original bearing that has usually dried out and needs some tlc. No reason you can't take that bearing out while you adjust then put it back in after.

Just some ideas i have on this subject.
In this context, cutting means cutting off the end of the shaft by the amount that needs to be shortened. If I understand it correctly, this is what is done on the earlier cars with the non-collapsable columns. This would obviously necessitate removing the column from the car, but it looks as though many do this to collapse the column anyway. I am only looking to avoid whatever causes the scrape or rub that has been reported.

I may be overthinking this a bit. Although I have heard a couple of examples of this, no one identified the actual cause. Additionally, if this was a larger problem I expect this would be all over the forum. Since there are not a couple dozen people responding "me too" in this thread, it may be rare.
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 05:00 PM
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If you do cut , make sure you keep the full length of spline on , it needs to be the full length to grip properly . At the very least I would make a solid steel rod press fit inside the join .

Actually I wouldnt cut it , just too scary to drive a car with a welded join in the steering .

Just count how many load bearing welded joins there are in a standard c3 steering system ?
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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 07:46 AM
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I just put this box on my 80. The column collapsed very easily and I've not had any scraping after only a few miles of testing. Also I think the length needed to be removed (if cut) would completely remove the entire spline area. I'm estimating but I'd say there's 1.5" of splines and after removed the 2.25-2.50 inches for fit, they gone. Figured I'd add another case for collapsing-OK.
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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by big mort
I just put this box on my 80. The column collapsed very easily and I've not had any scraping after only a few miles of testing. Also I think the length needed to be removed (if cut) would completely remove the entire spline area. I'm estimating but I'd say there's 1.5" of splines and after removed the 2.25-2.50 inches for fit, they gone. Figured I'd add another case for collapsing-OK.
Thanks Big Mott. I guess that is a good data point. I will likely move forward per the instructions like you suggest.

Now I just need to figure out if the big block pulley they send with these kits and include two grooves will work on the L46. I was pretty annoyed to find that they do not give you a small block pulley with the small block kit. The pump bracket also came unpainted.

Thanks again.
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