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Once you have loosened the retaining clamp, drive the end of a flat chisel into the "split" at the end of the Pittman arm. That will spread the threads enough to turn the C/V off the arm.
BUT, you need to carefully COUNT the actual number of turns the C/V rotates for it to come off. Count to the nearest 1/8th turn and record it. When you rebuild your C/V, you can then re-thread it back into the Pittman arm to the exact setting it had prior to removal. Not doing so is a PITA situation.
Once you have loosened the retaining clamp, drive the end of a flat chisel into the "split" at the end of the Pittman arm. That will spread the threads enough to turn the C/V off the arm.
BUT, you need to carefully COUNT the actual number of turns the C/V rotates for it to come off. Count to the nearest 1/8th turn and record it. When you rebuild your C/V, you can then re-thread it back into the Pittman arm to the exact setting it had prior to removal. Not doing so is a PITA situation.
A little confused by this. You seem to be referring to how the control valve attaches to the track rod. That part is loose and ready to come off. However, the control valve is also attached to the Pittman arm with a ball stud, much like a tie rod end. Not enough space for a pickle fork nor a tie rod end removal tool. This is my challenge. Any ideas?
Before putting it on an drenched the joint in penetrating oil for a couple days. When I put the puller on a torqued it down quite a bit, then walked away. Did a little work elsewhere, torqued it some more, then walked away. Repeated that a few times and then bang, off it came.