A/C thoughts
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,697
Likes: 833
From: WI
I'm not all that green and don't preach, but years ago for my job corporate decided we should all be required to pass certain environmental certifications. I was really stunned in my studies to learn how such a small amount of R12 depleats a large amount of ozone. That part's not controversial which is one reason they quickly moved away from certain CFC's/HFC's. It takes years once released to reach the ozone. Please don't people take this thread down the "you don't know what you're talking about" mode.
I'd still personally convert over to 134a just b/c availability is greater. If you were to take your car to a refrigeration shop at some point in the future, the chances of getting contaminated freon are quite high. Despite what many companies and can's claim, there isn't a substitute for R12 (other than a system conversion).
Best of luck.
I'd still personally convert over to 134a just b/c availability is greater. If you were to take your car to a refrigeration shop at some point in the future, the chances of getting contaminated freon are quite high. Despite what many companies and can's claim, there isn't a substitute for R12 (other than a system conversion).
Best of luck.
Last edited by Mark G; Feb 9, 2020 at 11:47 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
Likes: 278
From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
There was no orifice tube in my VIR Eliminator kit from CAA... just a fixed orifice block that replaced the VIR assy.
It seems as the internal valving in the VIR is the main problem when converting to R134 on the early systems and I'm
not exactly sure why other than it was designed for R12 pressures and lubricants.
KenSny... I have a rebuilt A6 style GM A/C compressor from my conversion that I'd like to sell if you're interested... $100.00 to your door.
Keep it in mind.
mardyn
It seems as the internal valving in the VIR is the main problem when converting to R134 on the early systems and I'm
not exactly sure why other than it was designed for R12 pressures and lubricants.
KenSny... I have a rebuilt A6 style GM A/C compressor from my conversion that I'd like to sell if you're interested... $100.00 to your door.
Keep it in mind.
mardyn
Thanks for the offer, but I'm going to see just how much a R12 recharge is going to run me and if that is reasonable then I'll take mine apart and see what's what. Otherwise I'll just do without for awhile until the budget allows for a R134a conversion.
Last edited by KenSny; Feb 10, 2020 at 07:32 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
Likes: 278
From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
I found this thread so while on the subject of AC, I have a few questions. Some may find these stupid, but bear in mind I am not a mechanic and have only owned my 76 for a year. Here in the PNW, the summers are relatively mild since the climate is moderated by the Pacific Ocean, which is only 50 miles to the west of here. Temps. rarely exceed 90, and the humidity is nothing compared to the Midwest and South. I only drive my car when the sun is out, and if the temps. climb, I pop the T tops off. So here goes. Would it be stupid to remove the AC? Why you ask. Well, I don't really use it; never have. It takes up room in the engine bay and inhibits access to other parts like plugs.If the answer is no, can it just be unbolted, taken out, and hoses reconnected. Absolutely do not want the dash out again. Did that last summer to have the heater core replaced. I assume AC would increase the value of the car, but I really have no intention of selling it. In fact, I would like to pass this car on to my son in a few years when I go **** up.Is this reasonable or just leave well enough alone and not create a big headache? Thanks for any insights.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
Likes: 278
From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
I'm not all that green and don't preach, but years ago for my job corporate decided we should all be required to pass certain environmental certifications. I was really stunned in my studies to learn how such a small amount of R12 depleats a large amount of ozone. That part's not controversial which is one reason they quickly moved away from certain CFC's/HFC's. It takes years once released to reach the ozone. Please don't people take this thread down the "you don't know what you're talking about" mode.
I'd still personally convert over to 134a just b/c availability is greater. If you were to take your car to a refrigeration shop at some point in the future, the chances of getting contaminated freon are quite high. Despite what many companies and can's claim, there isn't a substitute for R12 (other than a system conversion).
Best of luck.
I'd still personally convert over to 134a just b/c availability is greater. If you were to take your car to a refrigeration shop at some point in the future, the chances of getting contaminated freon are quite high. Despite what many companies and can's claim, there isn't a substitute for R12 (other than a system conversion).
Best of luck.
At any rate, I think from my standpoint, it will be cheaper to convert some of the pieces to R134a equipment. The price of getting a R12 recharge is going to be prohibitive because I don't have the tools to recharge. No one around here wants to admit to doing R12, and it's BYOB of R12, So I think I'm just going to wait a year, get a little more "car money" saved then convert.
Thanks
Last edited by KenSny; Feb 10, 2020 at 08:15 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
There was no orifice tube in my VIR Eliminator kit from CAA... just a fixed orifice block that replaced the VIR assy.
It seems as the internal valving in the VIR is the main problem when converting to R134 on the early systems and I'm
not exactly sure why other than it was designed for R12 pressures and lubricants.
KenSny... I have a rebuilt A6 style GM A/C compressor from my conversion that I'd like to sell if you're interested... $100.00 to your door.
Keep it in mind.
mardyn
It seems as the internal valving in the VIR is the main problem when converting to R134 on the early systems and I'm
not exactly sure why other than it was designed for R12 pressures and lubricants.
KenSny... I have a rebuilt A6 style GM A/C compressor from my conversion that I'd like to sell if you're interested... $100.00 to your door.
Keep it in mind.
mardyn
https://www.afterhoursautoparts.com/...SABEgICMvD_BwE
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 7,658
Likes: 2,470
From: Indiana
Seems to me you have a system that hasn’t worked in 10 years but still holds some pressure?
if so craiglist r12 and add
compressor making noise? And not pumping? Maybe clutch..which i think can be replaced without opening system.
if compressor bad, buy new one, and craigs list r12..
not sure if you have screen but if you do and system open check for metal..
if so craiglist r12 and add
compressor making noise? And not pumping? Maybe clutch..which i think can be replaced without opening system.
if compressor bad, buy new one, and craigs list r12..
not sure if you have screen but if you do and system open check for metal..
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,229
Likes: 39
From: Beautiful East Texas
So no orifice tube? I guess I assumed that long tube is the housing for the orifice tube. Sounds like it's just a fixed size orifice then? Since you've done that conversion could a guy get something like this to fit in it's place?
https://www.afterhoursautoparts.com/...SABEgICMvD_BwE
https://www.afterhoursautoparts.com/...SABEgICMvD_BwE
Someone familiar with the process/flow could no doubt piece together something that would work as well or better than the VIR style system.
mardyn
Last edited by mardyn; Feb 10, 2020 at 02:29 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
Likes: 278
From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
I'm still leaning towards replacing the A6 with a S6 and the VIR with the CAA Eliminator kit.
Replacing the hoses because 1. they are 45 years old and 2. I have read that they are not totally 134 barrier proof. So why not.
Getting a basic flush of the system and I like the idea of using Ester oil instead of PAG. Then maybe I don't have to take out the condensor and evaporator for more expense.
At least I think that is a reasonable start.
And now I'm going to price things out, and have a wee dram of Scotch when I see the total.
Thanks guys for the pros and cons.
Replacing the hoses because 1. they are 45 years old and 2. I have read that they are not totally 134 barrier proof. So why not.
Getting a basic flush of the system and I like the idea of using Ester oil instead of PAG. Then maybe I don't have to take out the condensor and evaporator for more expense.
At least I think that is a reasonable start.
And now I'm going to price things out, and have a wee dram of Scotch when I see the total.
Thanks guys for the pros and cons.
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