decided i wanted to redo my brakes WOW front calipers have steel lines going into rubber hoses, back has steel lines going into the calipers, have been only to get the back right to come off passenger side. have all fittings soaking in PB blaster right now. can i use heat or is there another good way, some one has rounded the back left 3/16 nut. again any good suggestions would be appriciated thanks ED

 

Do you have a good set of flare nut wrenches? Flare nut wrenches will not round the shoulders off of brake line fittings.

 

vice grips.. leave clip on too so it doesn't move..buy a new rubber and steel line (not expensive) to caliper, do not damage the others

 

yes i have a good set of line wrenches. 2 the second post you may be right get them off the best way i can and replace what i damage , the problem with older vehicles is the butcher who owned them before we purchased them. any one know what that screw or bolt is at the bottom of the caliper it has a 5/16 head i have one that is leaking slightly and it is a 32 from bottoming out

 

I second vise grips to Crack them loose. then new steel lines if the flare nut is trashed .

 

See post 5
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...brake-job.html

i thought this was just discussed..my flare wrenched wouldnt loosen squat on mine except master..but great for tightening..

 

Better yet when you soak them, heat them, and use vice grips, and the line twists with the nut.
Sometimes it just is what it is.

 

Did my '80 lines a few years back. Despite soaking in PB multiple times over a couple weeks, some flare nuts wouldn't give up the ghost. As others said, vice grips. Also, an old trick from my grandfather who owned a service garage from 1940's to 70's. You can try to tighten a stuck thread slightly before backing it off. It sometimes breaks it free. Note though, slightly.

Now, this next item is something to consider - it is not advice. And the purists on line will be ready to skewer me, but please consider that I was skewered by many when I did this on my brake line that runs from the proportioning valve to the rear splitter.

The front of the front to rear brake line must be run between the center cross member before attempting to get it threaded up over the rear cross member, around the trailing arm, etc. The problem is since the front of the line is already through the center cross member you don't have much freedom of movement to maneuver the back section through the maze it has to get through. It is a real PITA though it can be done, and I did it. But it the line I had from Classic tube was too long and didn't fit without excessive bending to correct it. So, I removed it and asked them to supply another, sending all my original to them as a guide.

ere is the item for consideration - I had them make the front to rear line in two parts. so that I could more easily get the rear section in. It was far easier to do it this way. The key is to ensure that the two pieces are of proper length so that the connection between them will be either ahead or rear of the center cross member to allow you to connect the two sections. And, of course, the total length of the two lines needs to be slightly shorter than the original to accommodate the length of the coupling between them. For what it's worth.