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I don't want to throw anyone under the bus, but in this case it is totally warranted. It is completely irresponsible to continue selling those springs.
Unless you can find a NOS VB&P spring, the VanSteel "low-arch" spring is your best bet. Send that one back.
Last edited by Bikespace; Mar 30, 2020 at 07:05 PM.
I have the same problem...initially about 2 inches higher in the back after replacing front and rear springs (has settled only maybe 1/2 inch in 600 miles). However not a composite in the rear but std 7 leaf. I also tried the longer bolts but did not like how low to the ground and close to the inner rim edge they ended up. As far as the axle shaft angles that should improve as the car body is lowered. Doesn't seem to me like anything else is wrong but perhaps that your new rear spring might be too much curve and stiffness for the car.
Let's see what the experts say.
A stock 9 leaf is rated at 196lbs The 7 leaf that you have is rated at 330lbs That's probably why it is sitting a little higher. And as for the OP why are you stuck on running a composite spring? Just wondering
A stock 9 leaf is rated at 196lbs The 7 leaf that you have is rated at 330lbs That's probably why it is sitting a little higher. And as for the OP why are you stuck on running a composite spring? Just wondering
I read they were lighter, more durable + cheaper to ship to Belgium.
If you remove the spacer- move the spring UP to the diff- you have done the SAME thing as putting longer bolts on it-
The car sits down -longer bolts don't hit the tire as they are not needed.
Jebby's set-up on the left versus the OP's
I may try this. We would be breaking msg's guideline tho'. I blv the instructions said not to remove the spacers or even the tape keeping the layers of spacers together. On the other hand, the spring is useless as it is.
With longer bolts, the bolt head & end of spring will still be where they are, relative to the tire/wheel. But, the other end of the bolts (and T/A housing) will move upward, as the body moves downward to lessen the gap over the wheel. You should know that there is a 'multiplier' effect, such that you only need to add bolt length of one-half the amount you wish the body to drop. So, a one-inch longer bolt should allow the body to drop about 2 inches.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Originally Posted by reno stallion
A stock 9 leaf is rated at 196lbs The 7 leaf that you have is rated at 330lbs That's probably why it is sitting a little higher.....
Yep...a 7 leaf is rated higher (like the Gymkhana). Not sure if it would cause the car to sit higher or just ride stiffer. Looking at the rear spring today, the bottom leaf of the pack is close to being straight across and the axle tubes almost straight across as well. I like the ride in the back so at this point I am going to look at raising the front to try to even things out a bit.
9 Leaf Rear Spring
Edit Update: Turns out I have a standard 9 leaf spring.
Last edited by Redvette2; Apr 1, 2020 at 02:51 PM.
Reason: Have 9 leaf type not 7.
I may try this. We would be breaking msg's guideline tho'. I blv the instructions said not to remove the spacers or even the tape keeping the layers of spacers together. On the other hand, the spring is useless as it is.
I'm just old school, but if the manufacturer warns about removing the spacers, then I would suggest not to do it.
Return the whole assembly to Zip and get the right spring from Van Steel.
Those TRW springs are known to be trouble.
Do it right.
I see in Jebby's photo that the spacer is different, but I'm sure he did not Bubba his rear spring in there and it is the proper spring and is installed correctly.
I could be wrong, but I doubt it.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Mar 17, 2020 at 05:45 PM.
Side note here. I've never trusted the longer bolts with just a nyloc nut to keep them on. Yes, I did run like that for years, but I did eventually drill and install a carter pin. Just a little more peace of mind.
Just FYI, I ran the TRW spring from ~1993 till 2011 in my car, ~65k miles. Very minor rubbing on the tires. When I went to the big block in 2011, I went from the 340# TRW spring to a VBP 390# spring and had them trim the ends 1/2" on each side. Got another 15k miles on that spring so far. Both springs have been dead nuts reliable for me. No issues. Also, composite spring rates do not equate directly to metal spring rates since it is one piece assembly and different materials. The composite springs like a different shock as well since they tend to bounce more (leaf friction deadens that effect on the steel springs).
Just FYI, I ran the TRW spring from ~1993 till 2011 in my car, ~65k miles. Very minor rubbing on the tires. When I went to the big block in 2011, I went from the 340# TRW spring to a VBP 390# spring and had them trim the ends 1/2" on each side. Got another 15k miles on that spring so far. Both springs have been dead nuts reliable for me. No issues. Also, composite spring rates do not equate directly to metal spring rates since it is one piece assembly and different materials. The composite springs like a different shock as well since they tend to bounce more (leaf friction deadens that effect on the steel springs).
I admit that the spring rides well.
And the longer bolts you used brought the half shafts down to horizontal ?
And “trimming” is like grinding off the tips ?
Last edited by DorianC3; Mar 17, 2020 at 06:48 PM.
And the longer bolts you used brought the half shafts down to horizontal ?
And “trimming” is like grinding off the tips ?
The longer C4 bolts made the ride height acceptable. But, I did get some tire rubbing (255/60R15). If you have the 225/70R15 tires, you pick up almost a 1/2” of clearance.
By trimming, I asked VBP for a custom spring. They took a blank spring, drilled the holes 1/2” further in on each end and trimmed the end of the spring. Not sure if there is anyone who does that anymore.
VB&P trimmed my spring at the factory by only cutting off one end. You can see where they slid the mounting block over, as the cut was made after the spring was painted. I'm not suggesting this is the best way to do it, but that's what they did. If you cut 1/2" off of each end after the fact, you will have notches rather than holes at the end of the fiberglass. It seems that VB&P figured out a better way by the time @SteveG75 had his spring made (I think mine is 12 years old or more).
If you order a new spring from VanSteel, you may want to ask them to shorten it at the factory. If they cut it to length before drilling the holes for the spring bolts, you'll end up with a properly centered spring with full-strength holes.
Last edited by Bikespace; Mar 17, 2020 at 09:49 PM.
