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For everyone that has installed a spreader bar on their C3 - what tool did you use to hold the head of the upper control arm bolt while removing the nut? I can almost get a socket wrench through the a-arm onto the rear bolt but nothing I have can grab the front bolt.
Last edited by C3Newb; Mar 30, 2020 at 02:29 PM.
Reason: Corrected name of upper control arm
Are you telling us this entire bolt is spinning as your try to remove the nuts?
These bolts have knurling under the head of the bolt that is supposed to grip the mount as the bolt is drawn in by the nut being tightened.
If someone uses an impact wrench to tighten or loosen them they can easily strip the knurling from the bolt. If the bolt is spinning this may be the case. You may find some help here... https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-stripped.html
Good luck and let us know how it works out... GUSTO
Get a pry bar to put pressure on the bolt head while you turn the nut. Sometimes it gets pushed out and the knurl has nothing to grab anymore. Dont use an impact gun to remove the nut, if the threads arent messed up and the knurl isnt totally gone you should be fine.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
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I have tthe same issue. Make sure your front end is jacked up while loosening the bolts. I was able to get a wrenc in there from underneath. I think it was a stubby. I'l go check since I have to take one side off to get my engine in with the fuel pump installed
Mine were a 5/8 head
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Mar 31, 2020 at 08:34 AM.
rescure roger has the right idea, using a stubby, I bought a cheap box end wrench from harbour frieght and cut it into the size that fit into that space.
Mike
Success! I ended up buying a set of 60 degree deep offset wrenches that did the trick. Only the driver's side bolts spun - the passenger side bolts apparently still have the knurling intact.
Thanks.
I have a 78 frame under my 65 and it has cracked the bottom of both frame where the engine crossmember is welded on. I have a spreader bar but also continuous welded the rail seams and gusseted it per the GM Performance Manual. I don't race the car I just thought it wold imorove the car. It handles great but the ridre can be harsh. I have VBP dual mount springs front and back and SPAX shocks.
Thanks.
I have a 78 frame under my 65 and it has cracked the bottom of both frame where the engine crossmember is welded on. I have a spreader bar but also continuous welded the rail seams and gusseted it per the GM Performance Manual. I don't race the car I just thought it wold imorove the car. It handles great but the ridre can be harsh. I have VBP dual mount springs front and back and SPAX shocks.
Tom
I have bilsteins and 460?# springs in front and 330?# rear springs and it rides and handles smooth.We are adding the gussets next repair. 2 weeks.
You almost have to pull the body to get it welded right.
I have bilsteins and 460?# springs in front and 330?# rear springs and it rides and handles smooth.We are adding the gussets next repair. 2 weeks.
You almost have to pull the body to get it welded right.
I agree. I was in an accident with the car a few years ago. I got cut off and t-boned a Jeep. While the body was off being fixed I replaced the frame with one from a 78. That's when I continuous welded and gusseted the frame. I also completed the modifications to make it fit a midyear. I don't think the gussets are an issue for ride quality. But IMO taking the flex out by continuous welding the seams does alter the ride. For a street car it may be too stiff. Again JMO.
Spreader bar installation tips please
