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Agonizing over engine swap

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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 09:47 AM
  #21  
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Are you building it or buying it. You can find a good 454 complete engine pretty cheap and get a good aftermarket aluminum block for $2k and build a 454 that weighs the same as a 383 with more power, torque and reliability. Then if you have cash left over go for a good set of aftermarket aluminum heads or save up for next winters build.
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 10:32 AM
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Before you go overboard, remember that big power demands a strong transmission and IRS behind it.

Once you get the power bug, spending never, ever stops.
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 11:08 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BKbroiler
It is docile on the street, doesn't run hot and it will smoke the tires at will and run 12.30s quarter miles all day - and I've done that many times.
This really sums up my goals. Real seat of the pants power on tap but retains drivability. Starting to sound like I have my answer...

Anybody have thoughts on this: https://epmmachineco.com/product/che...engine-vortec/

Last edited by RowdyMT; Apr 1, 2020 at 11:27 AM.
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 11:31 AM
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I'd go for the 383 to give it more of an original look. Those LS swaps dont look good and probably lower the value of your car.
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 12:12 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by RowdyMT
This really sums up my goals. Real seat of the pants power on tap but retains drivability. Starting to sound like I have my answer...

Anybody have thoughts on this: https://epmmachineco.com/product/che...engine-vortec/
you can get an all forged 383 rotating assembly internal ballance and it's already balanced by scat for around $2,100. Think about this thought, In a perfect money world it's nice to have a block line honed, decks squared up, lifter bores corrected, bored and honed. This is all great if you want that blueprinted perfect race engine or the best it could be for just the street. All this machining not going to be needed for your low rpm only just over 1 hp goal. Just bore and hone your block that cost wont be expensive. Then buy the new cheap complete afr offshore afr heads. The heads with no name on the front of them in the picture are most likely off shore pro max. You can bet that afr with there worked for good reputation is making sure there offshore casting is a good one.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Apr 1, 2020 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RowdyMT
This really sums up my goals. Real seat of the pants power on tap but retains drivability. Starting to sound like I have my answer...

Anybody have thoughts on this: https://epmmachineco.com/product/che...engine-vortec/
Pluses:Prices seem reasonable considering what you get. Decent al heads, decent cams, 425-450hp versions.
Steel cranks, one mentions Scat.
Downsides: 2 bolt block & hypereutic pistons

If you thin you're going to "lean" on it, or rev it often, or maybe get caught with octane issues, these like 92, I'd spend an extra 2-300 and get Forged pistons. Think of them as an insurance policy. These old cars do not have knock sensors or EFI, and it doesn't take much to kill a hyper piston..

Now if you are just going to casually cruise, get the hypers, and the milder cam, 390HP version, cause it makes 25lb more torque, and at a lower rpm.

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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 07:11 PM
  #27  
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383 would be the easiest route to take.
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 09:21 PM
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I suggest a set of factory vortec heads from a mid to late 90's 350 for your 383. 906's or 062's can be had really cheap. The 906's on my 383 stroker were actually given to me. These heads are not aluminum but the quench and flow are probably the best factory cast iron heads GM has ever produced. The only drawback is you need a compatible intake manifold but World Products has a great one that will work with your factory hood.
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 08:24 AM
  #29  
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much as i am a big block guy, since the car has a 350 now, replacing with another small block is by far the most sensible way to go.
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 08:31 AM
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What makes sense about owning a Big Block. Nothing. But it's a Big Block 😂
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 11:54 AM
  #31  
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In a totally unrelated post, I must confess that I love big block Mopars!
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 12:39 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by L88Plus
Before you go overboard, remember that big power demands a strong transmission and IRS behind it.

Once you get the power bug, spending never, ever stops.
My brother learned that 40+ years ago with his 74 Camaro. Built the heck out of his 350 including solid lift cam, fuelie heads, holley carb, headers, etc. First he snapped the drive shaft. Replaced that with something beefier. Then he grenaded the TH350 so replaced that with a really nicely built (up to 700 hp) TH400. Then he blew the engine. The standard valve stem collettes (however you spell that) didn't like the load from the solid lifter cam.

In engineering terms, it's a system and all the components need to integrate properly. Or, said another way, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

Last edited by vince vette 2; Apr 2, 2020 at 12:42 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 04:40 PM
  #33  
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I'm a big time LS fan but with your budget I would go either mildly built 350 or 383. Then if there is money left an overdrive trans.
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 06:29 PM
  #34  
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Agree...doing an ls swap for 4k I dunno...besides everyone and their brother is doing it..call local machine shops, someitmes they have projects that never got paid for, picked up. May be able to work something out.

Now if you had 10k, opens lots of doors, nice big block crates, GM ls crates etc.
dont need fancy stuff to make 400 just planning and getting it right the first time.
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 06:52 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Agree...doing an ls swap for 4k I dunno...besides everyone and their brother is doing it..call local machine shops, someitmes they have projects that never got paid for, picked up. May be able to work something out.

Now if you had 10k, opens lots of doors, nice big block crates, GM ls crates etc.
dont need fancy stuff to make 400 just planning and getting it right the first time.
A 400hp sbc solution does Not require $4K ... if the individual is clever, organized, savvy & hands-on.
A home-builder who plans carefully might even include EFI within that $4K.
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 08:10 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
call local machine shops, sometimes they have projects that never got paid for, picked up. May be able to work something out.
I scored a heavily modified Olds 350 for $1500 doing this exact thing. I think it was 6-9 months after we made an offer that the owner finally threw in the towel* and called us to take the offer. So definitely not a bad idea.

My vote: Gen 1 SBC. The costs of converting to another engine will quickly eat that 4k, leaving you little left for the engine itself. That little stuff adds up quick.




*or the shop forced the issue.
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 08:20 PM
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Any advice on going this route? I’ve done plenty of top end work and a couple complete engine swaps but I’ve never put one together. I’ve looked at some stroker kits but as far as piecing one together it seems I would get lost... If there’s a way I could come in under 4k with EFI... I’m all ears!
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 08:36 PM
  #38  
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You may want to check out this article from super chevy Chevy 350 Engine Build - The Chump Change Challenge. Admittedly, this is a little over 10 years ago, but depending on how much work you can do yourself, and even assuming prices today have doubled, you might build a roller cam, aluminum head 400 hp 350 for $2,500. This won't be top end parts, nor a wholly rebuilt engine, but mostly mods on the up top of a decent running used 350 and some good used parts from ebay on the like.
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RowdyMT
Any advice on going this route? I’ve done plenty of top end work and a couple complete engine swaps but I’ve never put one together. I’ve looked at some stroker kits but as far as piecing one together it seems I would get lost... If there’s a way I could come in under 4k with EFI... I’m all ears!
Without the savvy & previous hands-on experience, a first-timer will likely make many $ mistakes which will likely cause that $4K to become increasingly elusive ... JMO

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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RowdyMT
Any advice on going this route? I’ve done plenty of top end work and a couple complete engine swaps but I’ve never put one together. I’ve looked at some stroker kits but as far as piecing one together it seems I would get lost... If there’s a way I could come in under 4k with EFI... I’m all ears!
You could ride your bike to the best Q-Jet expert on the planet, so you might want to do just the engine first, then see what remains of your budget.
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