View Poll Results: $4k Engine Swap
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 71. You may not vote on this poll
Agonizing over engine swap
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
You may want to check out this article from super chevy Chevy 350 Engine Build - The Chump Change Challenge. Admittedly, this is a little over 10 years ago, but depending on how much work you can do yourself, and even assuming prices today have doubled, you might build a roller cam, aluminum head 400 hp 350 for $2,500. This won't be top end parts, nor a wholly rebuilt engine, but mostly mods on the up top of a decent running used 350 and some good used parts from ebay on the like.
They started w/ a used (mileage unknown) 1 pc rms roller motor But they did Not do Any machine shop work aka $ labor. They even reused an old timing set.and all old OE bearings. Seems their Only new Internal parts were a gasket set, one camshaft & a set of pushrods. An informative article but mostly about how Not to proceed; especially for first-timers as they won't know how to assess old, used parts.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 226
From: PA
Note:
They started w/ a used (mileage unknown) 1 pc rms roller motor But they did Not do Any machine shop work aka $ labor. They even reused an old timing set.and all old OE bearings. Seems their Only new Internal parts were a gasket set, one camshaft & a set of pushrods. An informative article but mostly about how Not to proceed; especially for first-timers as they won't know how to assess old, used parts.
They started w/ a used (mileage unknown) 1 pc rms roller motor But they did Not do Any machine shop work aka $ labor. They even reused an old timing set.and all old OE bearings. Seems their Only new Internal parts were a gasket set, one camshaft & a set of pushrods. An informative article but mostly about how Not to proceed; especially for first-timers as they won't know how to assess old, used parts.
Your right that this level of doing it on the cheap is a trap for a first timer to try. And these guys weren't worried about it coming apart the day after they filed the article. But the fact is if you have good compression and oil pressure, the bores look good and pistons aren't pitted, you probably have a pretty solid base even without a full tear down, boring, new pistons, etc. etc. Let's face it, by the late 90's the quality of the engines had vastly improved. And even my 80 L82 took all the beating the twenty something I put on it for most of its 90k miles. If it were me doing this, I wouldn't dive in without knowing the actual miles on the engine.
My takeaway was that if a person isn't in rush and has time to hunt around for some good deals, they can likely get $5k or $6k worth of hp and reliability for $4k. If the OP simply followed these guys on the route they took up top to get the heads, manifold, and carb he's likely be $1k ahead of just plunking down the case for new. That's money that could then go into internals and machining.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
I think I get your drift VV2, but I can't recommend their approach (One exception: "I can make 400hp cheaper than you can!" without regard to longevity). The only real elbow grease expended was up-selling some head, intake & cam Brands ... seems they didn't even pull a rod cap for inspection; much less to measure. Oh well, they managed to tell us how much a port flowed& its $cost ... but not what a rod journal looked like 
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 226
From: PA
I think I get your drift VV2, but I can't recommend their approach (One exception: "I can make 400hp cheaper than you can!" without regard to longevity). The only real elbow grease expended was up-selling some head, intake & cam Brands ... seems they didn't even pull a rod cap for inspection; much less to measure. Oh well, they managed to tell us how much a port flowed& its $cost ... but not what a rod journal looked like
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
Properly executed, leveraging skilled labor only for the engine cleaning and machining, you can update your engine and keep total expenses manageable.
A few questions:
DART Iron Eagle cylinder heads - light intake porting and bowl blending
Performance Advance Curve
Lars-rebuilt q-jet
Comp Retro Roller Cam Kit
Flat-top hypereutectic pistons
Hastings moly rings
1 5/8" headers
Dual exhaust with h-pipe
K&N air filter
Edelbrock Performer 2101 intake
There are a number of items also replaced (motor mounts, bearings, full gasket set, fasteners, water pump, starter, radiator, transmission, differential, oil pan, pump, etc.). It is probably a solid 370-395hp/tq engine. Plenty of fun and tons of seat-of-the-pants performance. Very durable setup.
A few questions:
- What is your total budget including the price of crate engine, labor and incidental parts that will need to be replaced?
- What is the condition and HP/TQ of your current engine?
- What is your skill level, extent of available tools and access to helpers?
- Is there a speed shop nearby to perform cleaning, machining and prep of your short block assembly?
DART Iron Eagle cylinder heads - light intake porting and bowl blending
Performance Advance Curve
Lars-rebuilt q-jet
Comp Retro Roller Cam Kit
Flat-top hypereutectic pistons
Hastings moly rings
1 5/8" headers
Dual exhaust with h-pipe
K&N air filter
Edelbrock Performer 2101 intake
There are a number of items also replaced (motor mounts, bearings, full gasket set, fasteners, water pump, starter, radiator, transmission, differential, oil pan, pump, etc.). It is probably a solid 370-395hp/tq engine. Plenty of fun and tons of seat-of-the-pants performance. Very durable setup.
Last edited by TedH; Apr 3, 2020 at 04:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 88
Likes: 45
From: Littleton Colorado
TedH,
1. My total budget is 4k.
2. The L-48 runs pretty good if a little hot. Its the original 73 so I’m guessing somewhere in the neighborhood of the stock hp/tq numbers.
3. I’m pretty handy. Ive done a couple complete engine swaps but I’ve never built one. I did some work for a mechanic who now owes me some work should I need it.
4. There are many machine shops in the Denver area.
I’m almost always a DIYer. I’m not easily intimidated by auto work. My hesitation with building an engine is the precision required. I’m perfectly comfortable torquing head bolts and manifolds to spec. But when it comes to plastigaging clearances I’m terrified. Putting an engine together with top of the line parts only to have it blow up on me is a learning experience I can’t afford. That being said, if there are significant cost advantages I would be willing to consider it.
Thanks again to everyone who responded or voted. This thread has really helped me with my decision! This community has been such a tremendous asset over the years. I’m on my 3rd corvette and part of the reason why I keep coming back is the community and culture that surrounds these amazing cars! Thanks again!
1. My total budget is 4k.
2. The L-48 runs pretty good if a little hot. Its the original 73 so I’m guessing somewhere in the neighborhood of the stock hp/tq numbers.
3. I’m pretty handy. Ive done a couple complete engine swaps but I’ve never built one. I did some work for a mechanic who now owes me some work should I need it.
4. There are many machine shops in the Denver area.
I’m almost always a DIYer. I’m not easily intimidated by auto work. My hesitation with building an engine is the precision required. I’m perfectly comfortable torquing head bolts and manifolds to spec. But when it comes to plastigaging clearances I’m terrified. Putting an engine together with top of the line parts only to have it blow up on me is a learning experience I can’t afford. That being said, if there are significant cost advantages I would be willing to consider it.
Thanks again to everyone who responded or voted. This thread has really helped me with my decision! This community has been such a tremendous asset over the years. I’m on my 3rd corvette and part of the reason why I keep coming back is the community and culture that surrounds these amazing cars! Thanks again!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
TedH,
1. My total budget is 4k.
2. The L-48 runs pretty good if a little hot. Its the original 73 so I’m guessing somewhere in the neighborhood of the stock hp/tq numbers.
3. I’m pretty handy. Ive done a couple complete engine swaps but I’ve never built one. I did some work for a mechanic who now owes me some work should I need it.
4. There are many machine shops in the Denver area.
I’m almost always a DIYer. I’m not easily intimidated by auto work. My hesitation with building an engine is the precision required. I’m perfectly comfortable torquing head bolts and manifolds to spec. But when it comes to plastigaging clearances I’m terrified. Putting an engine together with top of the line parts only to have it blow up on me is a learning experience I can’t afford. That being said, if there are significant cost advantages I would be willing to consider it.
Thanks again to everyone who responded or voted. This thread has really helped me with my decision! This community has been such a tremendous asset over the years. I’m on my 3rd corvette and part of the reason why I keep coming back is the community and culture that surrounds these amazing cars! Thanks again!
1. My total budget is 4k.
2. The L-48 runs pretty good if a little hot. Its the original 73 so I’m guessing somewhere in the neighborhood of the stock hp/tq numbers.
3. I’m pretty handy. Ive done a couple complete engine swaps but I’ve never built one. I did some work for a mechanic who now owes me some work should I need it.
4. There are many machine shops in the Denver area.
I’m almost always a DIYer. I’m not easily intimidated by auto work. My hesitation with building an engine is the precision required. I’m perfectly comfortable torquing head bolts and manifolds to spec. But when it comes to plastigaging clearances I’m terrified. Putting an engine together with top of the line parts only to have it blow up on me is a learning experience I can’t afford. That being said, if there are significant cost advantages I would be willing to consider it.
Thanks again to everyone who responded or voted. This thread has really helped me with my decision! This community has been such a tremendous asset over the years. I’m on my 3rd corvette and part of the reason why I keep coming back is the community and culture that surrounds these amazing cars! Thanks again!
Plastigage is stupid simple; I use it as reality check behind real gaging. Hopefully your mechanic will have mics & bore gage & knowledge & experience w/ them ...
... use plastigage as a secondary checking method rather than as primary gage.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 961
Likes: 275
From: Frederick MD
I know this question has been asked and answered with varying degrees of success and interest. But I am trapped at home due to quarantine with little to occupy my time so I have decided to finally tackle the issue of my engine swap and hopefully lay this issue to rest. For months now I have been agonizing over which direction to take on a new heart for my 73. When I first opened this can of worms it was with the simple intention of dropping in a reman 383 from ATK. Apparently in the 10+ years since I have looked into this, things have changed!
I have discovered the LS swap. Though it seems that the further down this rabbit hole I venture the more confused and inundated with info I become. It would also seem that the advent of this new option has had an effect on the more traditional options. In the Denver area I have found big blocks to be plentiful and inexpensive. There are also many SBCs for sale near me that are affordable.
My budget is 4k. I would like to have around 400hp. The car is driven a couple days a week. Mostly just street cruising. But I want driving this car to be as much fun as looking at it is.
What is the best way to accomplish this within my budget? My heart says old school SBC. On the other hand I’ve never had a big block and the thundering appeal there is obvious. Especially considering that I’ve seen several near me for under 1k. Obviously the real expense there would be in making the thing perform like I want. Is it even possible with my budget?
I am very intrigued by the LS swap. The drivability, mpg, OD transmission, all appeal to me. Not to mention the hp. The sheer volume of conjecture surrounding this gives me pause though. I have waded hip-deep into the LS threads and there doesn’t seem to be any consensus on the best way to do it.
All this brings me back to the 383. I have seen these in the 4K neighborhood with a warranty. The drop-in, bolt-on nature of this is a huge benefit. The old school look and lopey sound of a properly cammed SBC is how I imagined my dream car. Which this is. I only want to do this once.
So, are either of the 2 options I hadn’t considered (big block, LS) realistic at my budget? Does one provide substantial benefit over the others? I want this thing to rip! I want it to sound good doing it. I do want some measure of reliability. I know the old adage, you can have fast or cheap, but not both. But my budget is what it is. If you’ve made it this far, I would like to thank you! I’m throwing this out there knowing that it will be met with a measure of eye rolling but I am hoping that under the circumstances there may be others who, like me, find themselves with an abundance of free time and wish to opine on this age old topic! Or those that wish to share their experience with these engines. Thanks in advance to any and all who take the time to help me out! I am itching to pull the trigger and get my baby back on the road!
I have discovered the LS swap. Though it seems that the further down this rabbit hole I venture the more confused and inundated with info I become. It would also seem that the advent of this new option has had an effect on the more traditional options. In the Denver area I have found big blocks to be plentiful and inexpensive. There are also many SBCs for sale near me that are affordable.
My budget is 4k. I would like to have around 400hp. The car is driven a couple days a week. Mostly just street cruising. But I want driving this car to be as much fun as looking at it is.
What is the best way to accomplish this within my budget? My heart says old school SBC. On the other hand I’ve never had a big block and the thundering appeal there is obvious. Especially considering that I’ve seen several near me for under 1k. Obviously the real expense there would be in making the thing perform like I want. Is it even possible with my budget?
I am very intrigued by the LS swap. The drivability, mpg, OD transmission, all appeal to me. Not to mention the hp. The sheer volume of conjecture surrounding this gives me pause though. I have waded hip-deep into the LS threads and there doesn’t seem to be any consensus on the best way to do it.
All this brings me back to the 383. I have seen these in the 4K neighborhood with a warranty. The drop-in, bolt-on nature of this is a huge benefit. The old school look and lopey sound of a properly cammed SBC is how I imagined my dream car. Which this is. I only want to do this once.
So, are either of the 2 options I hadn’t considered (big block, LS) realistic at my budget? Does one provide substantial benefit over the others? I want this thing to rip! I want it to sound good doing it. I do want some measure of reliability. I know the old adage, you can have fast or cheap, but not both. But my budget is what it is. If you’ve made it this far, I would like to thank you! I’m throwing this out there knowing that it will be met with a measure of eye rolling but I am hoping that under the circumstances there may be others who, like me, find themselves with an abundance of free time and wish to opine on this age old topic! Or those that wish to share their experience with these engines. Thanks in advance to any and all who take the time to help me out! I am itching to pull the trigger and get my baby back on the road!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 961
Likes: 275
From: Frederick MD
I suggest a set of factory vortec heads from a mid to late 90's 350 for your 383. 906's or 062's can be had really cheap. The 906's on my 383 stroker were actually given to me. These heads are not aluminum but the quench and flow are probably the best factory cast iron heads GM has ever produced. The only drawback is you need a compatible intake manifold but World Products has a great one that will work with your factory hood.
Also make you check the valve guide to valve retainer clearance if you run any kinda large cam. The OE guides will hit the retainers. Again easy fix for a competent machinist but be aware.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 124
From: Lubbock TX
I had a similar dilemma with mine. If I built an engine mild enough that she wouldn't mind driving, I'd hate it. If I built it stout enough for me, she'd hate it.
So I bought another project car for her, we'll both end up with what we want. Hers is a '78 that will get an LS6 out of a 2003 Z06 (25th anniversary Corvette with the engine out of a 50th anniversary Corvette) and mine will be a fire breathing solid roller 4.635"x3.766" nasty bastard.
So I bought another project car for her, we'll both end up with what we want. Hers is a '78 that will get an LS6 out of a 2003 Z06 (25th anniversary Corvette with the engine out of a 50th anniversary Corvette) and mine will be a fire breathing solid roller 4.635"x3.766" nasty bastard.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,742
Likes: 1,384
I would suggest LS. It's been out ~20 years. All the pointers for installing it are out there. I'd look for a wrecked LS car and take the whole thing. Just a better all around engine with most easy potential.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 961
Likes: 275
From: Frederick MD
Fuel lines: If you convert the car to EFI the lines will have to be inspected and figuring out the pump and fuel pressure regulator situation will be 300 hundred dollars if not more depending on what all needs done. If he converts it to carb, dizzy, and mechanical fuel pump he would have probably $800 in it there but the existing fuel system could be reused.
Electrical system: The OE system may not be up to the task of running a PCM and all that fun stuff. Plus if you fuel inject it you’ll need to either fabricate your own harness (Not hard I’ve done it several times with 4-5 swaps) or purchase a pre-made harness for several hundred dollars. Converting a LS to carb would eliminate this but converting a LS to mechanical fuel pump and dizzy isn’t the cheapest.
Exhaust system: Never swapped a C3 with a LS but any header is gonna be expensive. If OE manifolds will work then that can save a bunch. Just don’t know what will fit.
Given the OP is on a 4K budget sticking with a SBC is the way to go.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,402
Likes: 8,208
From: Napa Valley California
I had a similar dilemma with mine. If I built an engine mild enough that she wouldn't mind driving, I'd hate it. If I built it stout enough for me, she'd hate it.
So I bought another project car for her, we'll both end up with what we want. Hers is a '78 that will get an LS6 out of a 2003 Z06 (25th anniversary Corvette with the engine out of a 50th anniversary Corvette) and mine will be a fire breathing solid roller 4.635"x3.766" nasty bastard.
So I bought another project car for her, we'll both end up with what we want. Hers is a '78 that will get an LS6 out of a 2003 Z06 (25th anniversary Corvette with the engine out of a 50th anniversary Corvette) and mine will be a fire breathing solid roller 4.635"x3.766" nasty bastard.