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I don't know how you can say the alignment is perfect if they only did the front. If the alignment shop had done the rears, perhaps they would have noticed that the rear strut rod bushings were shot. The overcambered rear wheels is a good symptom, as the car will squat when sitting. Or perhaps they did notice, and ignored it.
Otherwise, if the rear strut rod bushings are in perfect condition, a lack of front (EDIT) caster can cause the car to get light at speed. Also rear toe out can cause spooky handling. But my money is on the strut rod bushings.
Put in heim-jointed strut rods, and never look back.
Last edited by Bikespace; Apr 13, 2020 at 07:34 PM.
Worn out trailing arm bushings in the rear suspension can make the car feel squirrely.
I have to agree, when I purchased my 1980 a couple months ago I test drove the car and not having driven C3's before realized it was hell of a lot different. I was naïve enough to drive it on a 175 mile trip home(mistake) after purchasing it. Let me tell you, most of the ride was on the interstate, traffic 75 and 80 MPH. Let me tell you that when you have worn out TA bushings(which I was unaware) will bring in the Butt Pucker factor. OH frigging hell, when I crossed over a bridge and hit a low spot , it would whip and yep, suck that seat right up your ****!. With help from these guys I am happy to say the Pucker factor is gone.
Toobroketoretire1 wrote an article I found and after following his instructions my car drives fine. Apparently after changes throughout the front end redo I changed a lot of things I should not have. After setting camber and then caster and finally toe in,all is right in these crazy times. Thanks
I don't want to rain on your parade, but you still have too much camber on the rear, like you said. It will ride and handle better if you set the camber where the rears aren't tilted inward.
Just my 2 cents.
Last edited by Mrvettenick; Apr 13, 2020 at 04:41 PM.
Before I did my recent DIY alignment, I had front toe out, left rear was toe in, right rear was toe out...horrible thrust angle, and worn out suspension rubber. I rebuilt all the suspension components. Final was an alignment. Result was zero thrust angle, front caster 2.75*, zero camber, 1/16 total toe. Rear is 1/16 total toe and a half degree of negative camber.
So, perhaps consider starting with an good inspection of all the suspension components and correcting what is needed before spending time on an alignment. A four-wheel alignment with zero thrust angle, correct caster, camber and toe AND fresh rubber suspension components will result in a nice driving car...even with the balloon-ish F70-15 bias ply tires that I run.
Last edited by Sammy T; Apr 13, 2020 at 11:01 PM.
Reason: Grammar
I got way ahead of myself yesterday . I realized that when I was setting camber and caster that the tires rub the frame. I also am not sure if I understand while doing the setup is it on right and left side or just right side? I am going to order a rear bushing kit from Willcox before trying to do any more alignment. I had turned my front tie rods to adjust my steering wheel after rebuilding my steering column. Unless I am mistaken until the tire problem is resolved I can’t really move forward.
I got way ahead of myself yesterday . I realized that when I was setting camber and caster that the tires rub the frame. I also am not sure if I understand while doing the setup is it on right and left side or just right side? I am going to order a rear bushing kit from Willcox before trying to do any more alignment. I had turned my front tie rods to adjust my steering wheel after rebuilding my steering column. Unless I am mistaken until the tire problem is resolved I can’t really move forward.
and I have a pretty good data on each rear shin thickness and their associate degree of toe change if/when you need it.
..... . I realized that when I was setting camber and caster that the tires rub the frame. ........
Where do they rub the frame?
Top - can be solved by less negative camber
Front by parking brake bracket - can be solved by wheel spacer
Grab wheel top & bottom (on jacks) will it shake? Solved by wheel bearings or diff rebuild
Look closely at front trailing arm bushing for dry rubber or flakes - try an wiggle side to side with small crowbar - solved by TA bushing rebuild
Last edited by leigh1322; Apr 14, 2020 at 11:00 AM.
The driver’s side tire rubs exactly at the rivet right by the control arm and power steering ram . After further checking this morning I will have to take on the daunting task of rebuilding all of the rear suspension. I have completed all of the work up front replacing all of the bushings control alarm power piston shocks ball joints wheelbearings etc.
Oh it rubs in the front?
Probably just rubs the paint off the frame in a hard turn.
Just don't turn the wheel so hard! Seriously that would only happen at parking lot speeds and is not a problem. Ran my Z28 like that for 30 years.
The rear wheels both have play in them so I assume that an entire rear end rebuild is in order. Not sure if I can do it with no lift or press. Willcox offers a service @$400 per side for a rebuildand want to know if anyone has used the service. Other option is a local mechanic and other is to get the tool for changing the bushings. I did the front bushings replacement with all makeshift tooling. Thoughts? Thanks
The driver side is solid and looks like previous owner may have done work on that side. Passenger side the wheel moves at all positions but solid into differential. Thanks
So that sounds like trailing arm hub bearings doesn't it?
The hub bearings are a real PITA to change and get correct. Worse than the rubber bushings. Depends on your skills and machine shop / hydraulic press access.
Good luck! At least the diff stub axles are OK.
Last edited by leigh1322; Apr 16, 2020 at 02:20 PM.
I just talked to a local shop that said I could remove the T/A and they would charge like $50 to press out and back in bearings and or bushings if I provide them. Thoughts?