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I have a 79 L82 and have Falken Zeix 255/50/17 all around. Never had a Vette before but driving it reminds me of my truck with a bunch of weight in the back. Everything in the front is new and alignment is perfect. Since all of my previous projects were 3rd gen camaro and firebirds I am not sure what “normal “ is in a Corvette. It feels like the front end sits a little high but everything is stock except tires. Any thoughts? Thanks
Yes a C3 has a very different feel from a Camaro. You sit with your hips almost on the rear axle, your legs are straight out in front of you, and the front wheels are still 2 feet past your foot. So the front end feels like it "swings" and "pivots" on your hip. In Camaros and most other cars you sit almost in the middle, so on the intial turn-in you feel it in your hips/body/seat immediately. Not so much in a C3, there is more delay till you feel it. First it "swings" then you feel the cornering force. If you ever power-slide the car you will feel like you are on the end of a pendulum. But you can really feel what the rear is doing much better than a Camaro. So in a C3 you feel the front tires thru the steering wheel, and the rear tires thru your hips.
Plus you can not see the front 3 feet of the car from the driver's seat. Nothing past the tire bulges! So beware of Curbs!
It might be perfect at rest, but I am guessing it changes as the suspension moves mainly in the rear suspension. This car should feel stable at any legal driving speeds. As someone else said it probably a worn rear suspension.
The rear dictates how the front goes. Has anything been done to the rear? How many miles on the car? Could be as simple as worn strut bushings, or even a weak spring. Do the rear tires look like they're tilted in at the top, looking from the rear.
There are "few" shops that can do a wheel alignment correctly on a Vette. The cam bolt on the struts usually throws a good mechanic into a tailspin.
As others have mentioned, there are several well worn rubber bushings everywhere that dictate which direction the car should go.
Also, if you ask three people for the specs on wheel alignment, you will get three different data sheets. One is stock / factory. One is "spirited" street (some track).
And the third specs are track only. Who knows what you have?
You should not feel any plowing, oversteer, understeer, wonky or anything abnormal in the wheel. But to spend good money on a alignment would be a waste if bushings are beyond saving. And note that this is the first car you owned where the rear tires could tip in or out at the top. Strange huh?
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 12, 2020 at 02:48 PM.
Yes a C3 has a very different feel from a Camaro. You sit with your hips almost on the rear axle, your legs are straight out in front of you, and the front wheels are still 2 feet past your foot. So the front end feels like it "swings" and "pivots" on your hip. In Camaros and most other cars you sit almost in the middle, so on the intial turn-in you feel it in your hips/body/seat immediately. Not so much in a C3, there is more delay till you feel it. First it "swings" then you feel the cornering force. If you ever power-slide the car you will feel like you are on the end of a pendulum. But you can really feel what the rear is doing much better than a Camaro. So in a C3 you feel the front tires thru the steering wheel, and the rear tires thru your hips.
Plus you can not see the front 3 feet of the car from the driver's seat. Nothing past the tire bulges! So beware of Curbs!
first 79 l82 here as welll. And years ago had 77 camaro..and this explanation above is pretty damn good! Like your *** is delayed and on a pendulum..and yup..hit a trailer hitch on parked car as the front is deceptively long..
no truck ride though..check out rear as stated ..some good pics of struts bushings control arm bushings shining a light in there...
pics always good..
Since I have no idea how many miles are on the car and since I changed everything on the front it only makes sense to tackle the rear. I put new shocks on the rear and noticed how dried out the bushing are. New project....woohoo .After putting a level on both rear tires they are tilting in a half a bubble. Pretty technical but.....lol
Last edited by Steve Kistler; Apr 12, 2020 at 03:23 PM.
Reason: More information
Since I have no idea how many miles are on the car and since I changed everything on the front it only makes sense to tackle the rear. I put new shocks on the rear and noticed how dried out the bushing are. New project....woohoo .After putting a level on both rear tires they are tilting in a half a bubble. Pretty technical but.....lol
H-m-m-m-m-. Half a bubble? Seems like too much. Maybe not. I think it comes out to negative ten degrees on the rears? IDK There is a another way of checking just for the "H" and no machines which involves using a plumb-bob and measuring the gap between string and tires sidewall. Don't know how to do that either.
Great post. I just replaced shocks,power steering hoses,control arm,steering piston,a arm bushings and ball joints on the front. Good to know I have more to do...lol
Since I have no idea how many miles are on the car and since I changed everything on the front it only makes sense to tackle the rear. I put new shocks on the rear and noticed how dried out the bushing are. New project....woohoo .After putting a level on both rear tires they are tilting in a half a bubble. Pretty technical but.....lol
And that's with no one sitting in it. It's probably worse with people sitting in it. When that happens, there's less tire on the road, then if components are loose, it gets worse.
Last edited by Mrvettenick; Apr 12, 2020 at 04:08 PM.
I think it's worth pointing out that if the car was aligned to factory specs with those tires. It's going to hunt all over the road. Someone else suggested you put your alignment specs up on here. I agree.
The reason for my initial post was my concern that these tires were the cause for the loose feeling. I tried a couple of air pressure adjustments to no avail. There is no alignment sheet as I went by my Haynes manual and internet searches. After replacing all the steering and suspension components I used a square and a tape and a level. The car feels like when I overinflated my 4wheeler tires. Loosey goosey
Before you do anything, as others have stated, access the condition of the rear suspension. There are 4 main parts you need to look at:
1. The rear trailing arms bushings.
2. The rear trailing arms wheel bearing runout......do the rear wheel bearings have play in them
3. The rear strut rod bushings which control the camber movement of the rear wheels and will move a lot when the suspension is under load.
4. The rear diff half shaft u joints and the amount of play there is in the half shaft diff yolks going into the differential housing. The 70's differential yolks were of very poor soft metal quality and the yoke internal clips in the diff will fall off/shear on many of theses cars causing the half shaft to have excess movement into and out of the diff, all of which adversely effects the rear suspension movement and handling of the car.
Once you have accessed these components, I would look at the wheels, tires, and alignment..............
Last edited by jb78L-82; Apr 13, 2020 at 06:43 AM.
When I replaced the rear shocks last week I did check diff lube Ujoints and wheel bearings for play. I looked at bushings and they just looked old and dry. I will do a very thorough check today. Thanks
I'm still thinking you need to throw some caster into the ft.end to accommodate those tires. But I would definitely check out the rear end as stated above. I had to replace my diff yokes years ago with hardened one's. Trailing arm bushings on a car this old is also very suspect. And rear wheel bearings.
I agree with what others have posted. One other item is to make sure the rear spring is OK. There could be a cracked leaf, or the spring could be weak. There should be some arc to it, If it's flat or bowed down, then it's probably weak. If you do wind up replacing the spring, make sure that the 4 bolts that attach the spring to the rear end housing are the correct length. Don't trust anyone's catalog. If they're too long, they'll go right through the housing. When you do final torque, make sure the weight of the car is on the spring, so the plate will stay flat, and you won't break the rear housing. Good luck!
Yes to all the above. And please define "squirrelly" feel. Is it a little bit of wandering so that you don't feel comfortable taking your hands off the wheel? (likely needs more caster, not 1-2 degrees but 4-5 degrees). Or is it more like an immediate turning response or twitchiness anytime you hit a bump? (likely a loose bushing or bearing somewhere in the rear)..
Last edited by leigh1322; Apr 13, 2020 at 10:43 AM.