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Was going for a drive yesterday and smelled a slight burning smell. Felt like tranny was struggling a bit and was making rattling noise. Got to a good stopping point and noticed car would not roll unless I applied quite a bit of gas. Got out and inspected rear brakes. Passenger drum looks trashed and that brake seemed to be sticking. Limped it home and seemed like it released enough. I’ve got it in the air now and the tire has a little shimmy in it. Usually I’d say bearings or ball joints but since brake is trashed I’m not sure. Rear resovoir on brake fluid would go dry sometimes but checked it now and it’s full.
Haven’t pulled tire off yet but any ideas would be helpful. Parking brake? Caliper? Master cylinder? Rear hub?
Pics always helpful..
the drum you mentioned..would be the e brake shoes? ,as you have disc brakes and drum for e brake. Mine fell apart and made hell of a racket..
pull rotor and look..at drum..
grab wheel 12 and 6 3 and 9 to be sure bearing fair..
So I got the tire off and caliper was destroyed. E brake looked fine. Next questions. Do I need to add fluid or bleed new caliper after install or should it be ready to go?
Next question is when I grab tire at 12 and 6 there is quite a bit of play. Is that normal or do I have a bearing issue?
So I got the tire off and caliper was destroyed. E brake looked fine. Next questions. Do I need to add fluid or bleed new caliper after install or should it be ready to go?
Next question is when I grab tire at 12 and 6 there is quite a bit of play. Is that normal or do I have a bearing issue?
Any time you crack open the hydraulics you need to bleed them, the new caliper is empty.
You have to determine if that movement is only at the axle and not the whole trailing arm or the side yoke of the differential.
PIctures. I would like to see a 'destroyed' caliper. Also, you said Rear reservoir on brake fluid would go dry sometimes but checked it now and it’s full, it goes dry and then fills back up itself?
Last edited by kansas123; Apr 27, 2020 at 10:34 PM.
Your rubber jumper line hoses at each caliper are "toast". If they are original, they are badly deteriorated inside and the inner rubber has turned to a gooey gunk that still allows brake pressure to APPLY, but doesn't allow them to fully release. That keeps the brake pads pressed to the rotor and cause drag and a LOT of heat. Cars have caught a tire to ignite when the heat gets intense; some have had the whole vehicle go up in flames.
Sounds like a simple problem, but it can have massive implications. Replace those rubber jumper lines on ALL calipers.
If your master cylinder reservoir was going dry at times. Can't really understand why the brakes haven't been addressed sooner. It also sounds like you have limited knowledge of how your brakes work. The play and "Shake " in the wheel could be from a couple of different things. None good.
not certain if you belong to a Corvette club or not, now would be a great time to join one. Fellow club members whom have owned and worked on these cars for years could be of great help to you now.
Aside from that. Given your limited knowledge, I would recommend you seek out a Corvette expert in your area and have the car checked out by a professional. Wheel bearings , side yokes, trailing arm bushings when bad can cause serious safety issues. Brake issues can be deadly.