Windage tray question
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Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: St. Petersburg Florida
Windage tray question
I am getting ready to install a windage tray in my 383. I've read that they need at least .10 minimum clearance from the crank. My question is do I want to have it as close to the crank as possible or is there an ideal clearance I should go for. Thanks.
Last edited by Cool95vette; Apr 27, 2020 at 06:02 PM.
Race Director
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From: Scottsdale Arizona
Depending on the studs that you use, I don’t think you’ll be able to move them closer to the crank without machining. I’ll be interested what others have to say as I never “fitted” mine. Just made sure it didn’t hit.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2018
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From: Golden Colorado
I saw a video one time of a sbc with a clear oil pan. Can’t remember by who but it was about fitting crank scrapers on the side rail. The amount of what they called “roping” was unbelievable. Reminded me of those candy machines that they use to stretch taffy! The crank dipping in the oil carries a lot of oil wrapped around it so I would say the closer the better as long as it clears and allow for any heat expansion.
JMHO
JMHO
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
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From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
Some pan manufacters say 0.030-0.040.
In the old days I installed at 1/8" (0.125") in my stock chevy oil pans.
Just make sure you have good clearance between the tray and any rotating part. I don't think for a street engine it is super critical, since you are not maintaning high rpms for extended periods of time gleaning every last hp out of the engine.
In the old days I installed at 1/8" (0.125") in my stock chevy oil pans.
Just make sure you have good clearance between the tray and any rotating part. I don't think for a street engine it is super critical, since you are not maintaning high rpms for extended periods of time gleaning every last hp out of the engine.
Last edited by KenSny; Apr 27, 2020 at 08:42 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: St. Petersburg Florida
Some pan manufacters say 0.030-0.040.
In the old days I installed at 1/8" (0.125") in my stock chevy oil pans.
Just make sure you have good clearance between the tray and any rotating part. I don't think for a street engine it is super critical, since you are not maintaning high rpms for extended periods of time gleaning every last hp out of the engine.
In the old days I installed at 1/8" (0.125") in my stock chevy oil pans.
Just make sure you have good clearance between the tray and any rotating part. I don't think for a street engine it is super critical, since you are not maintaning high rpms for extended periods of time gleaning every last hp out of the engine.
She's on the track 90% of the time. There's a C4 there that I can't quite catch. He's running in the 6.70's and I'm in the 6.80's. So I am actually trying to find every little bit I can.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
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From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
On a straight drag track I would think baffles in the pan would gain more. All the oil surging to the rear and probably over the back of the tray.
I never tried to shave tenths of a second, so I'm just guessing.
Good luck.
I never tried to shave tenths of a second, so I'm just guessing.
Good luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Butler Pa
A wind age tray won't gain you any time. It'll keep your oil pressure more consistent by reducing airation.
Team Owner
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
But anyway please tell me about the motor. My solid roller 383 was only a 11.70 consistent drag racer when I had an auto tranny.
I have the 8 quart with adjustable side scrapers. I had to set it all up and they said something like .035 One of the easier ideas is to use 14 inch header collector extensions and get a vaccum pump that can get you down to about 16 inches of vacuum in the block
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Race Director
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From: Golden Colorado
Thread Starter
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From: St. Petersburg Florida
That is a very respectable time. I never got 6.80 in the 1/8th even with my 10.96 1/4. My vette was never optimized for drag racing it was straight off the road racing track with a 5 speed.
But anyway please tell me about the motor. My solid roller 383 was only a 11.70 consistent drag racer when I had an auto tranny.
I have the 8 quart with adjustable side scrapers. I had to set it all up and they said something like .035 One of the easier ideas is to use 14 inch header collector extensions and get a vaccum pump that can get you down to about 16 inches of vacuum in the block
But anyway please tell me about the motor. My solid roller 383 was only a 11.70 consistent drag racer when I had an auto tranny.
I have the 8 quart with adjustable side scrapers. I had to set it all up and they said something like .035 One of the easier ideas is to use 14 inch header collector extensions and get a vaccum pump that can get you down to about 16 inches of vacuum in the block
My best pass.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
my 11.70 383 had a much bigger solid roller and much bigger heads. I did have the hot rodded TH350 with a 3500 stall and 4.11 until it blew chunks in the pan. I'd get the morroso scraper kit, belt driven vacuum pump, and 12 -14 inch collector exstenions. electric water pump is a power saver. I started out with 9X28 Goodyear slicks and later on moved to 10 inch. I used the low burn out compound and they really last compared to hoosiers.
Weight is a big thing. I pulled all the metal out of the front of my 79
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2018
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From: Visalia
Go online
Engine Masters did a test on oil control and horse power gives you a good look at what controlling oil does for horse power. Motortrend channel
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Lower the oil level in the pan by a quart or two for the Banzai run and you'll get another 2-3hp out of it.
Lars
Last edited by lars; Apr 28, 2020 at 03:57 PM.
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From: St. Petersburg Florida
I agree but I've taken most everything off I can. I am looking at the air reservoir and rear bumper stuff that I saw removed in a weight loss thread I've read on here. I'm hoping between the windage tray, electric water pump, and going from a 28" tire to a 26" tire I can get that tenth. I don't feel comfortable putting more nitrous to the engine so I'm looking at parasitic loss of power.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 529
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From: Texas
You want a louvered tray. Milodon makes some good ones.The only other advice is to replace your carbs, To small for your setup. This is what you need. https://www.holley.com/products/disc...t/parts/0-4224........
https://www.racingjunk.com/Carbureto...=1&from=search......
https://www.racingjunk.com/Other/184...26&from=search
....They are out there just check around.......or up grade to a pair of Holley 600cfm carbs.
https://www.racingjunk.com/Carbureto...=1&from=search......
https://www.racingjunk.com/Other/184...26&from=search
....They are out there just check around.......or up grade to a pair of Holley 600cfm carbs.
Last edited by Gunfighter13; Apr 28, 2020 at 08:22 PM.
Pro
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From: Texas
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: New Braunfels Texas
We never really messed with windage trays unless they came with the pan that was spec'd. They just don't do a lot for power for the amount of headache they are.
Windage trays never fit, ever.....out of the box.......and installing one on your car from underneath would be something. You will have to trim somewhere and dry install the pan a bunch of times.
BUT....they do help....a little.....BUT they were not really designed for horsepower gain as much as high RPM oil control for extended periods.....the Diamond shear type are the best.
Someone suggested a vacuum pump......and you can pick up a lot with one. Plus it will improve the ring seal, especially with your 150 shot. If you want to pass that C4 at the track, install one......afternoon project and no oil involved. It is not unheard of to pickup north of 30 horsepower with one, depending on current ring seal.
Jebby
Windage trays never fit, ever.....out of the box.......and installing one on your car from underneath would be something. You will have to trim somewhere and dry install the pan a bunch of times.
BUT....they do help....a little.....BUT they were not really designed for horsepower gain as much as high RPM oil control for extended periods.....the Diamond shear type are the best.
Someone suggested a vacuum pump......and you can pick up a lot with one. Plus it will improve the ring seal, especially with your 150 shot. If you want to pass that C4 at the track, install one......afternoon project and no oil involved.
It is not unheard of to pickup north of 30 horsepower with one, depending on current ring seal.Jebby
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Sarver Pa
2021 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
When I was road racing and running short track I was experimenting with crank scrapers and could see a difference in lap times , so it got to the point where I never ran without one. When you are racing for money any little edge you can get , you do. Little time consuming to set up but not bad. Yes, you have to fit it to the rotating assy, but you just bolt it to the block with a couple bolts. Do each set of rods at a time. Max .050 clearance, I would not set it at .010. 025 to .035 is good. Bolt it to block, check it mark it grind , check again, repeat ,till you are happy. I am building a 540 BBC for drag racing now. It will have a scraper and I prefer the screen type windage tray. Smokey used to say a proper setup was good for 20 hp. I never had access to a dyno but saw the results on the track , so who am I to argue.