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Yes, that is one of the issues I have with the Fitech, getting tech help. I have some small issues like hesitations on start up that I want to tune out. From what I can tell there is very little in the way of support.
I definitely will call up your fellows and do the conversion.
I still have the mechanical tach... and that is something I want to keep as part of the originality of this vehicle. I am trying to find a small cap distributor that I can lock out and let the ECU take over the timing. The large cap HEI doesn't look at all original. I am also looking FW to having a data logger that is clear... plus ability to set some alerts.
Thanks again for all the super useful input . Pics would be awesome.
Obviously you are surviving this crazy Pandemic! I hope that you and your family are spared by this mess.
I think I have figured out the picture part better so I will post my very first picture on this Forum!!
This is the new Sniper Stealth 4150 installed on my 1968 427 This is where the hood seals to the plate mounted on the Throttle body
I guess I need to read how to size them appropriately.. Yes, my hood looks terrible but it is a authentic L88 component and I don't want to make any huge changes to it. The heat from my engine is what is killing the paint under the hood.
I will post more pictures once I know more about how to do it properly.
The first picture is what my Corvette looks like with the Holley EFI system. The blue hose cover on the fuel lines ends at a Fuel pressure Gauge which is a dead giveaway that it is fuel injected.
Obviously you are surviving this crazy Pandemic! I hope that you and your family are spared by this mess.
I think I have figured out the picture part better so I will post my very first picture on this Forum!!
This is the new Sniper Stealth 4150 installed on my 1968 427
This is where the hood seals to the plate mounted on the Throttle body
I guess I need to read how to size them appropriately.. Yes, my hood looks terrible but it is a authentic L88 component and I don't want to make any huge changes to it. The heat from my engine is what is killing the paint under the hood.
I will post more pictures once I know more about how to do it properly.
The first picture is what my Corvette looks like with the Holley EFI system. The blue hose cover on the fuel lines ends at a Fuel pressure Gauge which is a dead giveaway that it is fuel injected.
Hi Chris,
I trust all is well with you and your family.
All is well here; we are slowly de-confining. I just wish they would de-confine barber shops
Well, for first ever pics, the look great. Thanks for posting... always good to see your work.
You weren't kidding about insulating the hoses. I see you even wrapped the heater hoses
You have me convinced, I will definitely do the Holley conversion. I did another road test a couple of days ago and sure enough... it is boiling in there after a good drive and that make starting difficult. It might also be affecting the running as well. That pressure gauge maybe reading higher than carb... but it still looks like it could be carbureted.
The heat from my engine is what is killing the paint under the hood.
I was surprised by the amount of heat under these hoods
Thanks again for sharing !! Yes safe my friend !
@68vette2go Sweet ! I like the way you put this together. Very clean. I like the hood gauges... Are you also using a Holley in-tank returnless unit ?
Last edited by DorianC3; May 23, 2020 at 02:25 AM.
@68vette2go Sweet ! I like the way you put this together. Very clean. I like the hood gauges... Are you also using a Holley in-tank returnless unit ?[/QUOTE]
No, due to fuel consumption I was not able to use the Holley in-tank system. The car has a very hungry 632 that makes just shy of 900hp. I used the Hyperfuel in-tank system with a return and 2, 340 lpm pumps. In the top of the fuel curve, the engine needs close to 500 gph on pump gas. One 340 lpm pump would almost supply enough fuel, but the unknown is fuel system efficiency loss. We tried a single pump on the dyno, and the engine goes lean around 5,500 rpm. I have 10an supply win 8an return. Currently the Sniper activates the 2nd pump at 75% TPS. I also wanted the option to use E85 which will require about 40% more fuel.
Sorry for the dissertation!
Absolutely use a return line with the system, it helps prevent vapor lock. You need a filter to prevent contaminants from getting the into the injectors 100 micron pre-pump and 10 micron post pump.
(...) One 340 lpm pump would almost supply enough fuel, but the unknown is fuel system efficiency loss. We tried a single pump on the dyno, and the engine goes lean around 5,500 rpm. I have 10an supply win 8an return. Currently the Sniper activates the 2nd pump at 75% TPS. I also wanted the option to use E85 which will require about 40% more fuel.
Sorry for the dissertation!
Not at all... I learned something about high HP applications
Originally Posted by Kacyc3
Absolutely use a return line with the system, it helps prevent vapor lock. You need a filter to prevent contaminants from getting the into the injectors 100 micron pre-pump and 10 micron post pump.
Absolutely use a return line with the system, it helps prevent vapor lock. You need a filter to prevent contaminants from getting the into the injectors 100 micron pre-pump and 10 micron post pump.
Not needed for boiling purposes. At 58psi, the fuel will not boil until something over 300*F. Boiled fuel in the line by the engine when shut down will even change back to a liquid once the pressure from the pump hits it. Most new cars have been running returnless for years now and have you ever heard about widespread vapor lock issue with new cars?
Not needed for boiling purposes. At 58psi, the fuel will not boil until something over 300*F. Boiled fuel in the line by the engine when shut down will even change back to a liquid once the pressure from the pump hits it. Most new cars have been running returnless for years now and have you ever heard about widespread vapor lock issue with new cars?
Agree. Returnless works fine. I swapped to a returnless setup with -8AN (1/2") feed on recommendation of my tuner. My EFI was sending so much fuel back under light load and at idle that the fuel tank would get hot to the touch. Returnless solves that problem and under full throttle, cool fuel will be there in a heartbeat. My system is set to run at 42 psi. Never had a problem with vapor lock even in FL summer.
