Break in process
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 626
Likes: 15
From: Austin, TX
Break in process
Hi fellas,
I got a 350 C3 which engine was rebuilt and bored to 355 several years ago, but very very little driven after that because was in the middle of a restoration. The previous owner passed away so their family was not able to tell me if the engine was completely broken in. They only knew that the engine was running with high zinc 20w50 and his father drove the car from time to time in the neighborhood just to move it during restoration process for at least 3 years. It has High flow heads and intake manifold, mild cam and Hooker headers.
Should I follow any special process to make sure the engine is fully and properly broken in just in case was not completed? Car is not yet registered so not sure what oil to run and how to do it in the garage without driving the car before going to pass the inspection.
BTW, when I put the car in and out the trailer it fired up really well, even w/o choke and everything seemed to be in order. However that’s all I’ve driven the car since I got it in January, now it’s finally restored and time to move forward.
Thanks for your help.
I got a 350 C3 which engine was rebuilt and bored to 355 several years ago, but very very little driven after that because was in the middle of a restoration. The previous owner passed away so their family was not able to tell me if the engine was completely broken in. They only knew that the engine was running with high zinc 20w50 and his father drove the car from time to time in the neighborhood just to move it during restoration process for at least 3 years. It has High flow heads and intake manifold, mild cam and Hooker headers.
Should I follow any special process to make sure the engine is fully and properly broken in just in case was not completed? Car is not yet registered so not sure what oil to run and how to do it in the garage without driving the car before going to pass the inspection.
BTW, when I put the car in and out the trailer it fired up really well, even w/o choke and everything seemed to be in order. However that’s all I’ve driven the car since I got it in January, now it’s finally restored and time to move forward.
Thanks for your help.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 961
Likes: 275
From: Frederick MD
If the family knows who rebuilt the engine that would probably be helpful. If he had a shop that typically does race engines build the motor then it was most likely at a minimum broken in before it left the shop.
If the guy rebuilt the engine himself or a small shop rebuilt it then most likely it was broken in by the previous owner.
I’m assuming it has hydraulic lifters in it. If that’s the case you’re already well past worrying about the breakin on the cam. If it wasn’t done right the damage was done long ago.
I’d say change the oil and drive it at this junction.
If the guy rebuilt the engine himself or a small shop rebuilt it then most likely it was broken in by the previous owner.
I’m assuming it has hydraulic lifters in it. If that’s the case you’re already well past worrying about the breakin on the cam. If it wasn’t done right the damage was done long ago.
I’d say change the oil and drive it at this junction.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 626
Likes: 15
From: Austin, TX
If the family knows who rebuilt the engine that would probably be helpful. If he had a shop that typically does race engines build the motor then it was most likely at a minimum broken in before it left the shop.
If the guy rebuilt the engine himself or a small shop rebuilt it then most likely it was broken in by the previous owner.
I’m assuming it has hydraulic lifters in it. If that’s the case you’re already well past worrying about the breakin on the cam. If it wasn’t done right the damage was done long ago.
I’d say change the oil and drive it at this junction.
If the guy rebuilt the engine himself or a small shop rebuilt it then most likely it was broken in by the previous owner.
I’m assuming it has hydraulic lifters in it. If that’s the case you’re already well past worrying about the breakin on the cam. If it wasn’t done right the damage was done long ago.
I’d say change the oil and drive it at this junction.
I will put some Valvoline VR oil and start enjoying the car after 3 months working on the full interior
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,030
Likes: 363
From: Lubbock Texas
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Just drive it....dont redline nor baby it I bet its fine. Read the internet enough youll be convinced you have to treat it with feather duster or it will blow up.
The days of 500 mi break ins are long gone. 50 mi and go to it!
Long break ins wont make up for bad machine work. If its gonna go it will do it either way. Winced when I ran it up to ea gear til 6800 in 4th but its fine.
(glued to a bumper of a Dinan TT M5F10 clear til 148)!
The days of 500 mi break ins are long gone. 50 mi and go to it!
Long break ins wont make up for bad machine work. If its gonna go it will do it either way. Winced when I ran it up to ea gear til 6800 in 4th but its fine.
(glued to a bumper of a Dinan TT M5F10 clear til 148)!
Last edited by cv67; May 11, 2020 at 09:47 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Totally. If it was built right go out and drive it like you want to. If it was not built correctly no amount of “break in” is going to matter. I’d just fill it with good oil Nd drive it.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,873
Likes: 25
An old timer I asked said back in the day (model A's race car guy's) Said they'd fill the case with 5 gal of 30wt,
Start it up.
Make it idle well.
Let it run at idle all day while they kept it full of water. At the end he'd drained the case, filter the oil and put it back in at what ever amount they'd race with.
Said if you had a oil leak you knew it...…….
Start it up.
Make it idle well.
Let it run at idle all day while they kept it full of water. At the end he'd drained the case, filter the oil and put it back in at what ever amount they'd race with.
Said if you had a oil leak you knew it...…….
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,086
Likes: 786
From: Lebanon Township New Jersey
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 626
Likes: 15
From: Austin, TX
I will first check oil pressure with 10w30 and decide from there.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
If you're still considering performing a break-in, the linked instruction is from GM and is for a flat-tappet sbc much like a C3 motor ...
.. it contains a proper but simple break-in procedure
https://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...e-19355658.pdf
.. it contains a proper but simple break-in procedure
https://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...e-19355658.pdf
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,086
Likes: 786
From: Lebanon Township New Jersey
I know it gets hot in Austin but I have made repeated 1/4 mile runs in 90 degree air at times, using 10w 30, with no problems. Just fyi.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,030
Likes: 363
From: Lubbock Texas
If you're still considering performing a break-in, the linked instruction is from GM and is for a flat-tappet sbc much like a C3 motor ...
.. it contains a proper but simple break-in procedure
https://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...e-19355658.pdf
.. it contains a proper but simple break-in procedure
https://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...e-19355658.pdf
Good info. Every engine I've owned whether rebuilt or in a new car that was broken in with this or a similar procedure ended up being good engines and none had any noticeable oil consumption. Every engine I've had that was not broken in like this had noticeable oil consumption. I know what I would do.
DC