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Hello all, I have 71 ls5 non ac,ps,pb auto car, I’m about to purchase Hedman pn#68096, any installation tips or advice would be greatly appreciated....thanks in advance!!
Make sure any and all wires are heat shielded and also the starter. Insulate the plug boots also with some sort of firesleeve. Check clearance between trans cooler pipes and header, firesleeve as needed. If you can swing it, v-band clamps make removing the system easier, but they aren't cheap and need to be welded om.
I have never run heat shielding on any header ever......if it ceramic coated, and the timing/jetting is correct......you will have no problems.
I also do not run 25lb. Delco starters anymore.......use a quality Mini High Torque unit.....I like CVR.
Use Fel Pro or Cometic graphite header gaskets......and Percy or Cometic aluminum collector gaskets.
If you have cast iron heads...take the header bolt and peen a couple of threads flat...this will make the bolts self locking.....on aluminum heads.....use a locking header bolt or do what I do and tighten the **** out of them.....I run stainless ARP bolts.
I use Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal gaskets which have a steel core and are graphite coated. They have slotted end holes. Get header mounted loosely with two end bolts, drop in gasket, install all other bolts loosely, tighten.
Be careful of the temp sensor in the head. Don't want to break that connector off.
Check and retighten bolts every cycle after the first couple of heat cycles. Work from center out. I use a 6" open ended wrench and give it a good tug. No issues with loosening.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Get a ball peen hammer, a box of Band-Aids, a bottle of Jack Daniels, and brush up on your cuss-word vocabulary so you're not repeating the same cuss words over and over.
Get a ball peen hammer, a box of Band-Aids, a bottle of Jack Daniels, and brush up on your cuss-word vocabulary so you're not repeating the same cuss words over and over.
Lars, I am a sailor. I can use the work f**k 15 times in a single sentence and have it make complete sense.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
That's because you're a professional, Steve. You have the ability to use that word as a noun, a verb, a pronoun, and as an adjective, thus being able to make complete comprehensible sentences using that word alone. Those sentences are clearly understood by other sailors.
Get a ball peen hammer, a box of Band-Aids, a bottle of Jack Daniels, and brush up on your cuss-word vocabulary so you're not repeating the same cuss words over and over.
Is the hammer used to make them fit (clear the frame etc)? I have the same headers the OP mentioned and so far have not been able to get the passenger side tightened down without hitting the frame. Driver's side is tightened down but really close to the steering gear.
Is the hammer used to make them fit (clear the frame etc)? I have the same headers the OP mentioned and so far have not been able to get the passenger side tightened down without hitting the frame. Driver's side is tightened down but really close to the steering gear.
Check your motor mounts. I had poly mounts that collapsed ~1/8" in 12,000 miles. Replaced them with solids.
Thanks, I actually have solids on it. Just purchased factory style with shims to try and see if it makes a difference but have not got a chance to change them out yet.
From: Into the Mystic And yet, despite the look on my face, you're still talking TN
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '25
Originally Posted by lars
Get a ball peen hammer, a box of Band-Aids, a bottle of Jack Daniels, and brush up on your cuss-word vocabulary so you're not repeating the same cuss words over and over.
I put a stud in the first and last hole that way you can slide the header on then I put the gasket on (mr. Gasket)it's slotted),tighten the nuts on the studs and the bolts will line up.When it's tightened down you can take the studs out and replace with bolts if you want to. If you double nut the studs they'll come right out.