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So the 1976 I bought a few months ago has fluid in the cylinders, and the mechanic tells me the engine is blown.
That's tough news. I was not expecting to have such a catastrophic failure so early in owning the vehicle. But, silver linings! This gives me a blank canvass to work with (and a couple months of building up the piggy bank!). I'd love to hear anyone's input about what kind of engine to go with. Displacement, long block, short block, if anyone has experience with rebuilt/ refurbished engines. I'm hoping to spend under $4,000 and would like something with more horsepower than the original 1976's L48 offered.
This is a tough question to answer. My best advice would be think long and hard about exactly what you want.... how much power, driveability/reliability, ease of maintenance, cost etc. How you plan on using the car should help you figure that out. Cruiser, weekend warrior, drag car, grand touring, autocross... Don't cheap out, do it once and do it right. Get what you want, you'll be glad you did down the road.
Thank you for the input. Let me specify a little. I'd like the car to be good for trips to car shows a couple of times a year and to/from the golf course on Saturdays. I'd like it to perform well, but don't need a dragster. I'm hoping to find an engine that is somewhat compatible with the setup of the base 350 I had in it.
Pretty much any 350 crate engine will outperform the stock L48. And most will be in your budget. Take a look at long block 350's offered by Summit Racing. Not saying to necessarily purchase from them, but they list a lot of options. Read all the reviews! Amazing what you can learn by readings all the reviews. It'll also give you an idea of prices. Good place to start.
I would go with a Scat stroker kit, good forged pistons such as Wiseco, a Howards cam with duration @ .050 no more than 235, good heads such as factory vortec from a late 90's and an intake that will allow your hood to close, and a PTC torque convertor to match the combination if you have an automatic trans. All this for around 3.5k including machine work on the block and freshening up those heads. You will end up with an easy 400 hp that is reliable.
I would get a second opinion! I've popped the head gasket on my vette and I had water coming out one pipe when I pulled in with the engine misfiring horribly, It was popped between cylinders. All I had to do was pull one head, dry out the cylinders, and reassemble. It was my fault on a new engine. Mech advance wedged on full advance all the time and it had preignition. If you have a death rattle you should shut it off immediately.
Almost forgot. I also worked on a vette original L-82 head cracked near the exhaust valve seat and filled a cylinder with green antifreeze. The motor was locked up. Starter couldn't even rotate it. Another easy fix. Just a new head and parts.
Ask the "mechanic" if he means a head gasket is "blown". Most likely what he meant.
Unless he's really dumb, or wants your money badly, he probably did not explain it very good.
BTW why did you take the car in to a mechanic? What was the problem that made you do that? Symptoms? etc.
Ask the "mechanic" if he means a head gasket is "blown". Most likely what he meant.
Unless he's really dumb, or wants your money badly, he probably did not explain it very good.
BTW why did you take the car in to a mechanic? What was the problem that made you do that? Symptoms? etc.
I was driving the vehicle on the highway, it overheated, began to blow grey smoke, and lost power.
now the engine turns over but does not start. When I initially pulled to the side of the road there were splashed of engine oil on my hood, and throughout engine compartment.
Blown head gasket, coolent then mixed with oil. Of course it will not run, but at least it turns over so it did not hydro-lock and bend rods or other damage.
BUT, you might still have those crappy, prone to crack 882 heads. So maybe that's a concern.
If you have to pull the heads, dump them for something else. 40+ years on those thin walled junk heads is long enough that now you are gambling. Ask me how I know, or look at my engine rebuild thread.
He took it to a mech first. I assume he doesn't know an 883 from any other head. LS swap? Let's be realistic here. He needs either a new engine or a competent honest mechanic, or both. Scooce, where do you live? Let's either point him to a mech or shop or mebbe one of us put an eyeball on the car.
If you trust your mechanic he will be able guide you with everything you are concerned with. We that have built our own engines learned initially from someone else . Stay involved and learn all you can then you will reward yourself someday with your own build up. There is no one I trust more than myself!
Real talk...make sure it's not just a blown head gasket or something trivial. Lots of things can cause fluid to get in the holes. What kind of fluid was it?
As you can see Scooce, its easy for posters to spend your money. It doesn't come out of their pocket and has no limit: Buy this block, these heads, that cam and a set of $$$$$ pistons. Problem solved.
SBC are not plastic disposable items like many of todays products. They should be rebuilt if at all possible instead of tossing into a junk pile.
Like others said, lets not get ahead of ourselves, when it could just be, a reasonable cost fix.
Pull the Valve Covers, Heads & Pan. Do an thorough investigation. Judgement call after that, not before.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; May 14, 2020 at 12:57 PM.
I Seems Inexpensive alright. And no doubt an assemblage of some of the least desirable parts available. Yup, seems like a value; but is it a good value ?
It's already overbored +40 ... if/when motor has piston/cylinder wall issues ... unlikely it could be Successfully bored to next oversize.
FWIW, most reman crates use a late model block that's at +40.
Dig deeper That $2700 motor does Not come with carb-intake-distributor-damper-water pump as pictured ... it's remanufactured Not new. https://www.high-performance-engines...es-s-s/108.htm
Or Radley Chevrolet in Virginia. New GM engines. Free shipping. But first. You do not have space-tools-knowledge to remove an engine? How well do you know and trust this mech. He may be honest and capable but has never worked on a car older than 2000.
AFAIK, This is cheapest $1600 Base REMANUFACTURED motor (fka Long Block) that has decent performance Potential.
It's about 250 hp in OE trim ... stick a bigger cam & better springs in it and it'll be an easy 350 hp.