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That lube is not for lifters. I strongly advise molybdenum disulfide based grease specifically designed for flat tappet lifter break in. Fix the lifter and do another complete break in procedure just like you would for a fresh cam.
The lifter in question seems to have failed internally. The rest are not suspect at this time. Lifter failures of this mode are very rare. Much more common to see the lifter bottoms fail and wipe out the cam. If you change all the lifters you have 15 additional unrequired opportunities to wipe out the cam. If you replace just the one lifter, your odds are greatly improved. You can buy a single lifter to make the repair.
I agree with this 100% and it would be what I would do.....fix the lifter....
There are some odds here but better than replacing all.....and when I was younger, I actually did it.....and it worked.
I use Moly Paste on flat tappet camshafts.....
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; May 18, 2020 at 07:06 AM.
Molybdenum and ZDDP perform the same function.
Last I knew Melling made most all the lifters.
Bubbles? Maybe the oil pool is high and a valve seal is leaking a tad. Meh
I will buy 2 lifters. As said some posts above, I'll try to disassemble the first to use the components in the casing of the faulty one. If all went good, i can avoid problems regarding the breakin process. Otherwise I'll install the new one.
I will buy 2 lifters. As said some posts above, I'll try to disassemble the first to use the components in the casing of the faulty one. If all went good, i can avoid problems regarding the breakin process. Otherwise I'll install the new one.
What do you think?
Those products are fine....good call on two lifters as if you un-clip one and the guts go flying, you have another LOL.
I will buy 2 lifters. As said some posts above, I'll try to disassemble the first to use the components in the casing of the faulty one. If all went good, i can avoid problems regarding the breakin process. Otherwise I'll install the new one.
What do you think?
No way would I tear a BAD lifter apart and try to use it with another lifters guts. If it was bad, it goes in the trash. The problem could be in the body of the lifter some way. Different lifters are made with different specs. Might be all by the same chinese shop but there is no way to tell if the parts are interchangeable. They do not all look the same....they can come with different retainers....the piddle valves could be different.....probably a lot more.
Rather take a chance on a new replacement lifter and a slightly used cam would be my call on it.
Exactly. No screwin' around with disassembly and hope its put back together correctly. Over a $3 part?
Don't worry about breaking-in the new lifter bottom. Run it. Takes 30 min or less to create a pattern that matches the cam lobe. The lobe is already done.
If money were no object, I would swap all 16 lifters while the Intake is off. And all new "one-piece" pushrods IF, they were not installed.
We have heard way to many horror stories of people buying important components from EBAY. I would strongly suggest you stay away from the cheaper Chinese components that are being pushed on us today. The Chinese stuff is trash and I would do anything to keep it out of my engine.
I spent a lot of money rebuilding my 427 for my C3 and after it was broken in I drove it on a short ride when I started hearing a tapping noise that continued to get louder and louder so I went straight home. The next morning I discovered I had a Push-rod that was plugged which led to the destruction of my roller rocker arm on one cylinder. They were one piece rods and I was sure we had blown air through them before installing them. I bought another push-rod and a new roller rocker arm which took five minutes to change out. I was VERY lucky.
If it were my Corvette I would probably change out all 16 lifters for a known brand lifter kit. If one failed like yours did I would never trust the Engine again on long trips. You mentioned that the engine has a warranty so get them to replace all 16 with a better brand not made in China or India. I understand it would be more money but it will give you peace of mind while driving that beautiful Corvette on the roads of Italy. I wish I had a Corvette to drive on those incredible roads you have in Italy. I have heard that Edlebrock is using Chinese made parts and that some of the quality has gone down.
On my 427 the oil would be shooting out all over you with a valve cover removed... I took an old valve cover and cut a hole in the middle allowing me access but keeping me dry. Then I learned I had just cut up an original 396 valve cover that was worth several hundred bucks. Too Old too Soon, Too Smart too late...
Best regards,
Chris
P.S. Stay Healthy in this pandemic!
Hello Chris, thank for your post. I understand perfectly what are you saying. But now, I'm a bit confused because these lifters are brand new and well paid Edelbrock! So if also these are made in china, I really don't know what to buy... At this point I think that there is no proportion between the price and the quality. I will buy one "mid value" kit and i'll cross the fingers.
Surely the goal is to drive again my car, mostly because the pandemic lock down is mostly finished! Here in Piedmont where I live, there are the Langhe. A marvelous hilly area with some of the best roads (and winery) in Italy! Said so, I've been in the USA a couple of times, i drove for a total of 6000miles on some of the best and panoramic roads I ever seen!
Last edited by oVoSanto; May 18, 2020 at 04:28 PM.
That lube is not for lifters. I strongly advise molybdenum disulfide based grease specifically designed for flat tappet lifter break in. Fix the lifter and do another complete break in procedure just like you would for a fresh cam.
The lifter in question seems to have failed internally. The rest are not suspect at this time. Lifter failures of this mode are very rare. Much more common to see the lifter bottoms fail and wipe out the cam. If you change all the lifters you have 15 additional unrequired opportunities to wipe out the cam. If you replace just the one lifter, your odds are greatly improved. You can buy a single lifter to make the repair.
I agree, I'd email Edelbrock and tell them what's happening and see how they want to proceed. Make them pay shipping etc. But jebbys suggestion is actually brilliant , remove the lifter and use the guts out of a replacement lifter. I'd still use Molly lube on the face of the lifter.
Good luck.! You may want to mention to Edelbrock you are a forum member. It never hurts to let a company know you have the ear of thousands. The were always a good company but with Vic Jr gone it seems like the family has stepped back
Of course I knew there be some that oppose the lifter "repair".....so let me elaborate. Once you have it apart....the lifter needs to be disassembled and inspected thoroughly.....the foot, the bore inside, etc......if anything looks bad, then yes, it goes in the round file. In my experience though.......it is the one of the parts is actually missing from the inside......the check ball screen of the tiddly wink oil disc.......
So....if you check everything and inspect the lifter, then it is good to reassemble, assuming you found something and reinstall in the block. There is no reason why it wouldn't be......BUT, if I did not find anything wrong, then yes, replace it because deductive reasoning tells you to punt on this one......
My money? The spring under the check ball is broke....I have had this exact thing happen on a rebuild, and I fixed the lifter, it was fine after and is still running now.
Also.....what ever you decide to do, only coat the foot of the lifter with moly paste......the outer bore just coat with oil.......the reason is the paste is too thick and will hinder the lifter from spinning right away......it needs to spin immediately.....if it hangs up for any reason, it will grind the lobe off.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; May 19, 2020 at 08:01 AM.
Hi all, finally I did the work. The problem was the lifter that was locked. Changed with a new one, everything went OK!
Thank you all for all the suggestions!
