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I wanted to make my parking brake work better. As with most parking brakes mine just barely held the car. My rear cable seemed to have 50 years of crud and rust on it. I bought a new non OEM rear cable. Installed and adjusted it correctly. I now have a much better parking brake. SO,,,,,,,, I decided to clean the original OEM cable. To my suprise, it cleaned up just fine and should work just fine. My dilemma, do I reinstall the OEM cable? I don't have a lift. On my back under jack stands. My car isn't strictly original. For those of you wanting to fix the parking brake, give the old parts a chance.
My other question. I've looked at the geometry of the parking brake pads and the star adjuster. I know the manual has the star adjuster on the right side at about 5:30,,,, but can it be installed either way without any problem?
I wanted to make my parking brake work better. As with most parking brakes mine just barely held the car. My rear cable seemed to have 50 years of crud and rust on it. I bought a new non OEM rear cable. Installed and adjusted it correctly. I now have a much better parking brake. SO,,,,,,,, I decided to clean the original OEM cable. To my suprise, it cleaned up just fine and should work just fine. My dilemma, do I reinstall the OEM cable? I don't have a lift. On my back under jack stands. My car isn't strictly original. For those of you wanting to fix the parking brake, give the old parts a chance.
My other question. I've looked at the geometry of the parking brake pads and the star adjuster. I know the manual has the star adjuster on the right side at about 5:30,,,, but can it be installed either way without any problem?
Well thats great you got yours adjusted good. Mine is not as good as I would like. Seems like if I try to get them a little better I can hear the pads scraping. So I would leave it be with the aftermarket cable.
Well thats great you got yours adjusted good. Mine is not as good as I would like. Seems like if I try to get them a little better I can hear the pads scraping. So I would leave it be with the aftermarket cable.
I adjusted the star tight, then backed it off about 8 clicks with the rotors bolted tight. Then adjusted the rear center cable adjuster with the parking brake handle 3 clicks, just until I could feel the wheels dragging a bit. My brake handle is nice and solid now.
I also drive the car for a few miles without useing the brakes as much as possible, stop and touch the parking brake drum and see if they are hot,,, or if one is hotter than the other.
Last edited by kodpkd; May 18, 2020 at 10:41 AM.
Reason: new info
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I did it by the book with the wheels off and half shafts disconnected and it still didn’t hold on a steep hill. So this time I just left the discs loose and tightened them until the disc snugged up but would still wobble a little. Did both sides the same taking the slack up and then tightened the cable underneath. Best parking brake feel so far. Haven’t pulled it while moving yet.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by kodpkd
I know the manual has the star adjuster on the right side at about 5:30,,,, but can it be installed either way without any problem?
Yes, the star adjuster can be installed backward but you will find that pulling the screwdriver handle upward will tighten one side and loosen the other.
Yes, the star adjuster can be installed backward but you will find that pulling the screwdriver handle upward will tighten one side and loosen the other.
Thank you,,,, I always have to look at the threads on the star to adjust it anyway.
When I first bought my C3 it had no functional Emergency Brake so I ordered all the parts and I spent an afternoon installing and adjusting the new SS brake parts.
I adjusted it and it still works great 28 years later. It holds on a hill without being in gear even.
For me the Emergency Brake HAS to work or I don't drive the Corvette until it does.
If set up properly they do work "fairly" effectively.
If they don't just install a large Boat Anchor and chain under the fuel tank and have it ready to release upon command.
The only brake problem I have had with my C3's brakes was the Master cylinder froze up one day while cruising along at 70 just entering a clover leaf turn off that was a 15 mph turn (for cars). I was glad I had a four speed and a good emergency brake as I was able to continue the drive home safely without an operating master cylinder in my brake system. I was probably a record holder for entering that particular turn and I was sure glad my C3 handled well when I hit the turn at over 4 times the posted speed for the turn. The car never acted up in any way, it was glued to the road and whipped me through the turn.
Got to love the parking brake system...... After adjusting the star adjuster, and the new center cable correctly, I have been test driving the car 50 MPH 4 miles not using the any brakes. Stop and I touch the emerg brake drums. The left drum is cool, the right drum is hot. Like one potato,, two potato,, three potato,,, ouch! Not serious hot, but hot and the left side isn't hot at all. Twice now I have loosened the RT side star and tighted the LT side, it still has uneven heat. Looking through the adjuster hole, the star adjusters look new. Do I try adjusting them again? I guess I can check the cable pull lever on the top of the park brake mechanisum and see if they are both pulling correctly.
The design of the rear cable makes me ask. At the center adjuster the cable is able to slide back and forth, I guess so it stays even,, but if one side is stiffer than the other, I can see that side might not get it's share of the pull from the center.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I was thinking the cool side must be seized or the hot side isn’t releasing and it’s dragging. You probably need to take them apart and lube the pivots
Well! Took both side disc's off, Nothing really corroded. Seems someone installed new springs, adjusters, ETC. Cleaned every thing up. The brake pads did have some contamination on them. Put everything back together. Adjusted the star until tight, then backed it off 7 clicks. Set the park brake handle to 3 clicks, adjusted the center cable adjuster just until I could feel the brakes dragging. The RIGHT side is still a bit hotter than the left. UGH! Also, not what I would call a great park brake, but it works,,,, Good enough.
Well! Took both side disc's off, Nothing really corroded. Seems someone installed new springs, adjusters, ETC. Cleaned every thing up. The brake pads did have some contamination on them. Put everything back together. Adjusted the star until tight, then backed it off 7 clicks. Set the park brake handle to 3 clicks, adjusted the center cable adjuster just until I could feel the brakes dragging. The RIGHT side is still a bit hotter than the left. UGH! Also, not what I would call a great park brake, but it works,,,, Good enough.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
A few things to consider!
This problem only started after you replaced the rear cable. Yes?
Are the new springs installed correctly?
Here's a picture to compare.
It might help if you can post a picture.
I don't remember if the rear cable can move at the equalizer after tightening A & B.
I remember the cable being clamped in there.
Someone else can answer that for sure.
Do you have at cable connected correctly to (ball to lever) with the spring helping to release the PB?
How old are your trailing arm bearings, any slack at 3 & 9 or 12 & 6?
Yes,,,, everything is correct as per the pictures. The center slide between the adjuster nuts is a solid steel piece, I don't think it squishes the cable. I think it is designed to slip to keep both side even. I didn't ever check the drum temp with my fingers before I installed the new cable. Maybe the higher temp drum is the correct one, and the one that is cool to the touch is not correct. Could someone drive about 5 miles useing the brakes as little as possible and touch your drums and see?
Not me!!! Driving that distance with a dragging brake shoe is a much higher risk than getting the car up to 40 mph (or so) and slowing the car down with the E-brake to 'burn-in' the shoes. One shot and then let the housings cool down.
P.S. If you do this, make sure to keep the 'release' button on the e-brake handle pushed so that it doesn't lock in place while braking.
Parking brake opinion
