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Old May 18, 2020 | 11:34 PM
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Hey my 79 has developed a leak and it is coming from drivers side top and dont think it is the hose. Kinda hard to see. It only leaks after a long run and only after its been parked for a few minutes. Now can these be repaired with sauder at home or is it best to bring it to a shop and have it done by a pro. I have new hoses on order as i take it replacing them is a good thing. I read most of the sticky thread on rads so what works best fixing or replacing. Also is this a hard thing to do. Just never done 1 before. Seems like its hard but not real hard to do it
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Old May 19, 2020 | 01:05 AM
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You need to determine the true source of the leak. You might need to put fluorescent dye in the coolant and look for the leak with a UV light (in the dark). If the leak is in a tank on the radiator, you could solder it with a propane torch, flux & solder....AFTER removing any trace of coolant/water from that tank. If the leak is in the core, it would be best that a pro shop do that work.
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Old May 19, 2020 | 03:38 AM
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The other thought is, how old is the Radiator?
if it's the original one, perhaps look into replacing it. If you shop around abit. You'll find replacement radiators really are not all that expensive.
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Old May 19, 2020 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
The other thought is, how old is the Radiator?
if it's the original one, perhaps look into replacing it. If you shop around abit. You'll find replacement radiators really are not all that expensive.

Don't waste time on a repair. Put in a new aluminium rad for less than $300.
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Old May 19, 2020 | 10:50 AM
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find where leaking first as mentioned.. even my replacement had a leak in the cap area where the overflow goes into bottle.. no pressure took forever to figure it out.. epoxy all good..
here is my 79
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nt-79-l82.html

also look up onto this thread for a sticky.. its all about alum radiators..

honestly if original..i would replace.. keep the old if you like.. really depends on where you are that someone can even work on these anymore.. add to that the cost and you are in aluminum.. I went USA made
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Old May 19, 2020 | 11:41 AM
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If you have a simple pin-hold or seam leak in a tank, just fix it in the car and be done with it. If you have to remove the radiator to fix it, just replace it with a decent aluminum radiator.
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Old May 19, 2020 | 11:44 PM
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Thanks for the replies, In order to see the hole or crack i will have to pull it. Where its leaking is hidden so i know where to within a inch or so where the problem is. It could be a pain with the blower setup. I believe its the original 1 so maybe a replacement one will work best. Thanks again.
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Old May 19, 2020 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by interpon
find where leaking first as mentioned.. even my replacement had a leak in the cap area where the overflow goes into bottle.. no pressure took forever to figure it out.. epoxy all good..
here is my 79
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nt-79-l82.html

also look up onto this thread for a sticky.. its all about alum radiators..

honestly if original..i would replace.. keep the old if you like.. really depends on where you are that someone can even work on these anymore.. add to that the cost and you are in aluminum.. I went USA made
That was a great thread and i will use it for reference when i do mine
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Old May 21, 2020 | 12:06 AM
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Most shops won't warrant the work on an original rad, put in an aluminum. I put in a three row Champion and the car runs cooler than it ever did.
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Old May 21, 2020 | 12:59 AM
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As stated above, if you pull the radiator, just replace it. You will be better off in the long run. I have a Champion in another car and I'm very pleased with it. Not exactly a 'stock' fit; but close enough for me.
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Old May 21, 2020 | 01:25 AM
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Thanks again and will take a look at it after i get it out. most likely will just replace it and the hoses and probably the thermostat as i have no idea what is in there now
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Old May 21, 2020 | 07:45 AM
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I put a three row Champion in a stockish 76' and it was great....but prepare to find sheet rubber to trim for the upper and lower mounting brackets.

Jebby
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Old May 21, 2020 | 08:30 AM
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The Cold Case is a direct fit i.e. no mods required and has the larger 1-1/4" tubes. At least that was my experience.
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